Got some scratches on my car!!
Polish pad doesn't have any cut...he's just going to end up with shiny scratches. And why on earth would you compound with a polish pad??!
Unless you have a DA or Rotary polisher, just get the scratch ex crap from VatoZone and a towel. Scratch X has a moderate amount of cut to it (cut is what depletes the clear coat, basically), and not enough to do any damage. Kinda like a liquid wetsand. It will work just fine. When it comes to the actual process of paint correction, you need at least 2 pads and a good buffer. It's actually the speed/friction of the pad and the lubrication of the applied chemical that melts the clearcoat, which works away scratches, making them disappear, not covered up. Unless you are going to drop hundreds of dollars and spend hours learning and screwing up, just get the damn scratch x.
Unless you have a DA or Rotary polisher, just get the scratch ex crap from VatoZone and a towel. Scratch X has a moderate amount of cut to it (cut is what depletes the clear coat, basically), and not enough to do any damage. Kinda like a liquid wetsand. It will work just fine. When it comes to the actual process of paint correction, you need at least 2 pads and a good buffer. It's actually the speed/friction of the pad and the lubrication of the applied chemical that melts the clearcoat, which works away scratches, making them disappear, not covered up. Unless you are going to drop hundreds of dollars and spend hours learning and screwing up, just get the damn scratch x.
Unless you are going to drop hundreds of dollars and spend hours learning and
screwing up, just get the damn scratch x
http://www.google.com/search?q=3m+ul...w=1200&bih=926
Polishing pad has some cut. A glazing pad has no cut. Cut does not only come from pads either. It comes from the compound. No need for wet sanding! No need for a Wool pad. I do this everyday. I know what im talking about. Only part i agree on is where you said.
Unless you are going to drop hundreds of dollars and spend hours learning and
screwing up, just get the damn scratch x
Unless you are going to drop hundreds of dollars and spend hours learning and
screwing up, just get the damn scratch x
Last edited by FJF; Jul 21, 2011 at 02:12 PM.
Polishing pad has some cut. A glazing pad has no cut. Cut does not only come from pads either. It comes from the compound. No need for wet sanding! No need for a Wool pad. I do this everyday. I know what im talking about. Only part i agree on is where you said.
Unless you are going to drop hundreds of dollars and spend hours learning and
screwing up, just get the damn scratch x
Unless you are going to drop hundreds of dollars and spend hours learning and
screwing up, just get the damn scratch x
Everyone has a "way" they do it, and usually defend it militantly. All of our infighting is just gonna confuse the guy, and its way, way beyond his skillset anyways
...since you insist:
A clay bar doesn't seal anything. It actually does the exact opposite by removing bonded-on contaminants.
1. An orbital buffer is totally ineffective for polishing. It simply doesn't have the power to break down the abrasives (we'll get to this in a minute).
2. The act of polishing happens when a given product is broken down into finer particles, unless of course one is using a non-diminishing abrasive. The steps suggested by you cannot make such a thing happen. It's simply impossible, as described.
3. Again, polishing, the speeds you cite work in an opposite order as presented. Depending on tool, one starts at high/medium speed and finished low, after the abrasives have broken down to burnish the finish.
There's a hell of a lot more to this.
Why introduce a polish (Scratch-x) when you're supposedly polishing to begin with? Because, you have no idea how any of this works. Why Scratch-X and not Swirl-X or Megs Ultimate Polish? Because, you don't know anything about this.
Let's briefly review: You suggested a clay bar, but you really don't understand what it does. You suggested polishing, and given the technique you cited the paint will remain marred at best or damaged at worst. You are clearly unaware of what a polish actually is and how it is used. Given all this, would you like to make any other great suggestions?
A clay bar doesn't seal anything. It actually does the exact opposite by removing bonded-on contaminants.
1. An orbital buffer is totally ineffective for polishing. It simply doesn't have the power to break down the abrasives (we'll get to this in a minute).
2. The act of polishing happens when a given product is broken down into finer particles, unless of course one is using a non-diminishing abrasive. The steps suggested by you cannot make such a thing happen. It's simply impossible, as described.
3. Again, polishing, the speeds you cite work in an opposite order as presented. Depending on tool, one starts at high/medium speed and finished low, after the abrasives have broken down to burnish the finish.
There's a hell of a lot more to this.
Why introduce a polish (Scratch-x) when you're supposedly polishing to begin with? Because, you have no idea how any of this works. Why Scratch-X and not Swirl-X or Megs Ultimate Polish? Because, you don't know anything about this.
Let's briefly review: You suggested a clay bar, but you really don't understand what it does. You suggested polishing, and given the technique you cited the paint will remain marred at best or damaged at worst. You are clearly unaware of what a polish actually is and how it is used. Given all this, would you like to make any other great suggestions?
By clay bar, you are correct i should not have used the word "seal". bad choice, that is on me. My point was to explain to someone that might not quite understand that something that looks like this _^_^__^ would look like this ______ after claybaring. so maybe "smoothing" would have been a better word?...moving on.
If you think that scratchX and a normal full car polish are the same thing I really want to see you polishing your car lol. Think of scratchx as an abrasive coarse grit paper where a normal polish COULD BE REFERRED (don't want you to get all technical on me..) to as a fine grit paper. You should use a compound like scratchx as an initial step to polishing, and only on deeper clear coat scratches. also for doing a low area there with minor scuffs from the rough side of a sponge there is no need to do high speed/heat buffing and taper down to slow speeds.
"Given all this, would you like to make any other great suggestions?"
you make smart comments like this, and tell people to stop making suggestions that they don't know what they are talking about, but you have STILL YET TO HELP. After wasting all your time trying to correct me, you have still yet to even start to suggest, based on his description, what he could do.
before you say "well there is no pictures" the dude said he scratched it with a sponge....so make an educated guess, how bad do you think it is?
ok bill nye...
By clay bar, you are correct i should not have used the word "seal". bad choice, that is on me. My point was to explain to someone that might not quite understand that something that looks like this _^_^__^ would look like this ______ after claybaring. so maybe "smoothing" would have been a better word?...moving on.
By clay bar, you are correct i should not have used the word "seal". bad choice, that is on me. My point was to explain to someone that might not quite understand that something that looks like this _^_^__^ would look like this ______ after claybaring. so maybe "smoothing" would have been a better word?...moving on.
If you think that scratchX and a normal full car polish are the same thing I really want to see you polishing your car lol.
^^^ Here's what my polishing looks like:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/pa...evo-ix-se.html
I took a look at your car and its wash and wax job. Really, you need to get a grip:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...hed-waxed.html
Think of scratchx as an abrasive coarse grit paper where a normal polish COULD BE REFERRED (don't want you to get all technical on me..) to as a fine grit paper. You should use a compound like scratchx as an initial step to polishing, and only on deeper clear coat scratches. also for doing a low area there with minor scuffs from the rough side of a sponge there is no need to do high speed/heat buffing and taper down to slow speeds.
you make smart comments like this, and tell people to stop making suggestions that they don't know what they are talking about, but you have STILL YET TO HELP. After wasting all your time trying to correct me, you have still yet to even start to suggest, based on his description, what he could do.
before you say "well there is no pictures" the dude said he scratched it with a sponge....so make an educated guess, how bad do you think it is?
We're done.
Last edited by FJF; Jul 21, 2011 at 05:12 PM.
Lol you found a thread of pics that were taken less than a week after I got stationed back stateside, the car was less than a week in my possession, and I hadn't even got my overseas shipment yet. So yes it was exactly what the title said....washed and waxed.
Take a trip to the other forum were people aren't know it all jerks and see my good pics. I only come to this site because it isn't blocked at work, and try to avoid it because of people like you.
You are right I can't grasp a concept of friggin clay being rubbed along a surface.
If you were really so smart you would have clear bra'd the entire front end and all hot spots so you wouldnt have to cry all the time about how "fragile" the paint is. Well at least that is what I did,but eh I'm just a dumb guy that is falsely helping someone that asked for it...
Now we are done troll, move on.
Take a trip to the other forum were people aren't know it all jerks and see my good pics. I only come to this site because it isn't blocked at work, and try to avoid it because of people like you.
You are right I can't grasp a concept of friggin clay being rubbed along a surface.
If you were really so smart you would have clear bra'd the entire front end and all hot spots so you wouldnt have to cry all the time about how "fragile" the paint is. Well at least that is what I did,but eh I'm just a dumb guy that is falsely helping someone that asked for it...
Now we are done troll, move on.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: california
damn i was gone for 1 day and all this! well my phone camera isnt working and i cant seem to find the other camera.however the adhesive is all off, its just that when scrubbing it with the rough side of a sponge, it left feint scratches and looks like a fade. i went to a local hardware store and got a pen like scratch remover, and from far away u cannot tell it is scratched, but when u get up close and look at the car, or if the car is in sunlight, it looks like ****. tomorrow im gnna get some wet and hot paper towels, wash the spot again, and go over it with the "scratch remover"
damn i was gone for 1 day and all this! well my phone camera isnt working and i cant seem to find the other camera.however the adhesive is all off, its just that when scrubbing it with the rough side of a sponge, it left feint scratches and looks like a fade. i went to a local hardware store and got a pen like scratch remover, and from far away u cannot tell it is scratched, but when u get up close and look at the car, or if the car is in sunlight, it looks like ****. tomorrow im gnna get some wet and hot paper towels, wash the spot again, and go over it with the "scratch remover"
By rough side of the sponge, do you mean an abrasive, steel wool-like surface? The pen you got from the hardware store is damaging your paint, too. If you plan on touching/washing the finish with paper towels (!), you'll only damage it further. Seeing all this, you need to hire someone to help you. Go here, post on the board appropriate to your area and ask for a referral. Good luck.
Evolving Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
From: Orange County
LOL look at you guys fighting over nothing.
OP is the same guy who pretended to own an Evo 1-2 years ago and then got his parents to put $10,000 down on a leased Evo. Then he scratches his car trying to debadge it. Eek.
He actually used "the rough side of a sponge". C'mon now.
OP is the same guy who pretended to own an Evo 1-2 years ago and then got his parents to put $10,000 down on a leased Evo. Then he scratches his car trying to debadge it. Eek.
He actually used "the rough side of a sponge". C'mon now.
Oh, man...
By rough side of the sponge, do you mean an abrasive, steel wool-like surface? The pen you got from the hardware store is damaging your paint, too. If you plan on touching/washing the finish with paper towels (!), you'll only damage it further. Seeing all this, you need to hire someone to help you. Go here, post on the board appropriate to your area and ask for a referral. Good luck.
By rough side of the sponge, do you mean an abrasive, steel wool-like surface? The pen you got from the hardware store is damaging your paint, too. If you plan on touching/washing the finish with paper towels (!), you'll only damage it further. Seeing all this, you need to hire someone to help you. Go here, post on the board appropriate to your area and ask for a referral. Good luck.
really tephra why recommend this when he could just grab a hand full rocks for free...gosh! lol! I can just picture someone through rocks at their car, and then moving in for a closer inspection of the spot, wiping the sweat off there face sayin "damn" backing up and throwing another handful with the hopes that another throw or two will take the scratches out...lol no coffee yet this morning :'-(