When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I drove about 500 miles, dealer says rotors are warped, no scorching he said. I dont know why they would say warped rotors if its pad buildup...couldnt they tell? I don't do track events I'm still unemployed unfortunately so I'm very careful with the car. I'm stuck with oem parts so they can warranty it again.
edit: new rotors have been ordered, again lol. Said they are going to "check the runout of the hubs", what does that mean? Car goes in Nov 1st.
They put a dial indicator on the car and measure the runout (variance). The rotors are supposed to be relatively flat as the rotate. Pad buildup in spots will cause there to be an uneven surface which causes the brake shudder you feel.
They want to make sure you don't have a wheel bearing gone bad so they are going to put that same indicator on the hub instead of the brakes to see if your play/runout is coming from there instead, which is unlikely but good to eliminate nonetheless.
Odds are the dealership tech you're talking with doesn't really understand brakes and uses the term warped because it's what they've heard before. It's commonly used but definitely a misnomer.
Update: It's fixed again on 2nd set of new rotors. No more warranty, on my own now because I "brake too hard" and 'warp' rotors in a week daily driving on snows in the rain. Done with this dealer in concord, next closest is Nashua, 1.5 hour drive from Plymouth for warranty work. I'm just praying things don't go bad again in a week.
I don't know how to be more forceful with this service dept without making a scene, it sucks because I've been very cooperative and polite, being lovingly bold, while getting laughed at when i repeat their "improper storage at the factory" excuse, along with the braking comment today, kind of upset with the treatment, but life goes on and I'll just need to try another dealer.
Thanks again for the feedback. I wish i could understand what happened. I'm having a hard time picturing such an extreme shudder from a rotor surface that looks clean and smooth if it isn't warped. I mean, it was bad!
I was trying my best to imagine how this could happen at all in 500 mile daily driving, whether its warped or pad build up or whatever it really is. **** doesn't even seem possible. I feel like it's just going to happen again because we're counting on blind faith at this point instead of knowing what went wrong and how to prevent it again.
At least the representative from Mitsubishi was very nice, I told her to wish me luck. I wasn't going to leave the dealership yesterday without another warranty but I did. I was going to tell them to call the police to remove me from the premises, so I'm obviously pretty peeved at this scenario.
The ongoing insistence in this thread about no warping being possible is good to have if this happens a 3rd time and I'm out $1k. I can bring this advice to Mitsubishi and another dealer for troubleshooting. For now let's all hope it's fixed right this time and this thread can die.
I sometimes get it with my track pads. If so ,I repeat the bed-in process. I'm not sure that works with street pads, though. A light sand paper usually does the trick, though.
For next time, any way.
Unless you are doing some serious canyon carving ,it's odd that you are consistently having this problem.
If it happens again, might be better to find a reputable independent shop. Dealers don't always hire the best people, and they might be more prone to the "replace everything" mentality, which begets assigning a root cause without really investigating.
If it happens again, might be better to find a reputable independent shop. Dealers don't always hire the best people, and they might be more prone to the "replace everything" mentality, which begets assigning a root cause without really investigating.
Replace = less liability. I don't think any modern dealership would clean up an old set of rotors.
It could have something to do with the kind of miles i drive, or how I drive them, but lack of greasing the pads was 100% causing my issue. I know because i did everything to try and fix it, new rotors, pads, rebuilt calipers, bought tools to measure rotor thickness and run out, checked wheel bearings, even replaced a wheel that had a little bend in the lip, problem kept coming back. Did research, found that lack of lubrication is a cause of my described issue. I lubed the pads and guide pins and the problem went away on its own and didn't return.
Replace = less liability. I don't think any modern dealership would clean up an old set of rotors.
No, a lot of dealers have brake lathes.
But you are right in that most dealers don't really have "technicians" anymore. They might have 1 or 2 guys that are really capable of diagnosing a complex problem, and the rest are basically R&I guys that can follow instructions (sort of) and do basic diag to fix OBD2 codes.
Oct 17, 2018, 02:35 PM
