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Hello all, been a while since I posted here but wanted to share an experience with the dealer and Mitsubishi warranty and "good will". There's no tldr sorry.
I noticed a brake shudder around 25k miles but didnt get it properly diagnosed until yesterday with 30k miles at the dealer. I've never been to a track and have been on snow tires since late 2017. I drive slowly. I was under the impression from a subaru dealer that I should be covered 36/36, I got the car new in 2016 as a leftover.
The Mitsubishi dealer says otherwise of course, not an sti, and evo gets 12/12 warranty on brakes. I tell the gentleman about the car and there's no way warped rotors at 25k miles isn't a defect and need to be covered, as apparently some owners get much more life out of the rotors while others warp much sooner, regardless of abuse or care.
I'm then sent on my way with a 3700.00 quote and they tell me to call Mitsubishi. Now I have corporate speaking with the dealer, and dealer tells them "nicest evo we see, no modifications, detailed dealer maintenance since new". I say thanks.
2 hours later I get a call from dealer and Mitsubishi is willing to cover rotors, with the condition that all new factory pads are installed as well, which I pay for as well as labor. Dealer gives another 20% off that and I'm looking at $1000 for new factory rotors and pads warrantied (for 12/12 again I assume).
Did I make out okay with this deal? Obviously it would've been great to have it covered completely, but I've seen the attitude online like you're basically screwed on wear items.
PS, I know about centric rotors and used to run them on the impossibru. It's what I'd do here instead of getting raped for 3700, but new oem for a grand doesn't seem too bad.
Rotor's don't warp. Uneven deposits build up from the pads and cause vibration. You're break pads were probably close to worn out, getting hotter due to low pad thickness and leaving deposits. The dealer could have easily turned the rotors and installed new pads.
You could have gotten centric premium blank rotors, and your choice of several different aftermarket pads installed for less money then you spent. Or had the stock rotors turned, and picked your flavor of aftermarket pad for even less still.
You could have gotten centric premium blank rotors, and your choice of several different aftermarket pads installed for less money then you spent. Or had the stock rotors turned, and picked your flavor of aftermarket pad for even less still.
^This checks out. I threw everything mentioned (w/Stoptech Pads) in my cart on MAP and it totaled up to $591.00 in parts.
Last edited by Metal_AF; Sep 21, 2018 at 04:28 PM.
From what I remember dealerships opt to replace rotors, as opposed to cleaning or turning. I was told why, but can't remember. Probably because it's easier, less chance for error (liability), and they make more money.
You could have fixed it all yourself for about half the price, had you known. Since you didn't... it is what it is and could have been worse.
Now you know and can save yourself a ton of money, next time.
I would have lightly sanded the disc rotor surfaces to get the deposits off, new pads, and been done with it. That's an option for next time, should you need to save a few $$$s.
Unfortunately there's not anyone I could find around here that turns rotors, dealer doesn't have the machine and my old subaru dealer wanted at least 200 to do it, I even called a recommended machine shop, nope.
The dealer says pads are fine. I guess I'll ask to keep them, with the warped rotors. I used to have belknap subaru turn the rotors on wrx and sti, really didn't seem like a good or even possible option now though to spend 2 or 300 and have it go bad again in a few months.
Btw this isn't something I'd do myself, I did a semester of mechanics, it's not in my DNA
labor is going to get paid no matter what, $600 parts still doesn't help that much in savings, still be nearly a grand I think. However it would probably last longer than oem!
Definitely keep the old parts! You are just a YouTube video away from installing them yourself. It's really, really easy. As for having someone else do the labor, it sounds like you were in the ballpark of being a fair price. To be honest, I haven't had anyone do maintenance on one of my cars since about 1995.. So I'm kinda out of the loop on how much stuff like that costs.
Rotor's don't warp. Uneven deposits build up from the pads and cause vibration. You're break pads were probably close to worn out, getting hotter due to low pad thickness and leaving deposits. The dealer could have easily turned the rotors and installed new pads.
You could have gotten centric premium blank rotors, and your choice of several different aftermarket pads installed for less money then you spent. Or had the stock rotors turned, and picked your flavor of aftermarket pad for even less still.
I've had 4 sets of rotors on my X now. I lost my first at about 25k. Pulsing issues. installed fresh Centric premium with Magic pads. bed properly. lost those around 60k. put in another new set. rinse and repeat. same thing. I am now trying Raybestos premium rotors. A pad re-bed seems to help a bit, but something is up. I have never lost rotors like this before. I have installed many sets too and I doubt my install was the issue. wire brushed the hub to make sure I have a clean surface and then bed properly. Torquing the wheels correctly as well. I'm not going to just try re-bedding my pads ever 10k or so. I don't ride the brake and never hold until stop. I do most deceleration by downshifting. I use my X as a daily driver and wonder if it's a braking habit issue, though I doubt it. with this new set of fronts about to go on I am changing out both hubs with new Timkin hubs / bearings as well. Oh, and $100 for brakes is too much to spend I think. You can do the whole front for less than $500 with Centrics. You could even try the CRY variant. That's doing the install yourself though.
Last edited by jeremy_montoya; Oct 1, 2018 at 11:48 AM.
So bad hubs caused movement and uneven wear/braking?
Possibly. I am on new front hubs & bearings now with new centric premium rotors. I'll see how long these last. I had noise coming from a bearing too, so I am hopeful this solves it.
Brought it back to the dealer today for more brake shudder, new oem front rotors are warped already after getting fixed. They say improper storage at the factory may have caused it. They're going to put another set of new rotors on, need to order parts etc., is this real life? Move this to the brake section if necessary it looks like a larger problem than I thought. Good grief!
Rotor's don't warp. Uneven deposits build up from the pads and cause vibration. You're break pads were probably close to worn out, getting hotter due to low pad thickness and leaving deposits.
Just to reiterate what has already been said, it's extremely unlikely that your rotors are warped. It's almost definitely pad deposit buildup on the rotors. The stock pads are pretty soft and dusty so it's not uncommon to have this issue if you drive hard.
How many miles did you go after they replaced everything before you had the issue again? Did you do a track day or some spirited runs? If you stop/sit with the brakes applied and the rotors are hot, it can leave deposits, especially with stock compound pads. A panic stop followed by staying stopped can cause this too.....
Your best option to avoid this in the future is to get a more performance oriented pad compound on the car.
Sep 21, 2018, 03:12 PM
