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So since its been getting cold, my belt will whine or squeal when you start it up. Kind of normal but probably means it needs to be replaced. I've tried to look up how to do this. All I need it seems is a 5/8" wrench and it should be like any other belt.
I've tried this from the bottom. I've tried this from the top. I can't seem to make this stupid tensioner come loose. I'm starting to wonder if something is wrong with the tensioner. But I haven't heard of a ton of X's have belt issues besides the idler pulleys. But mine is a 2012 and I thought they addressed that issue. Anyway, any advice on how to knock this out would be AWESOME.
I've tried to attach a video to let yall see how loose the belt is. It definitely looks too loose to me. This isn't normal is it?
I just did this job two weekends ago! That belt definitely looks too lose.
I went ahead and replaced all three pulleys and I'm glad I did. One had noisy bearings and the other two were definitely tired. I had to drop the passenger motor mount to get the tensioner pulley off but otherwise they were easy.
The tensioner pulley was easier to get at from the top for me and is reverse threaded so you're going to push your wrench towards the back of the engine to get the tension off.
There are two belts listed at the parts stores I visited so make sure you get the number off of yours or bring it in to get the right belt!
I've been trying that, but the tensioner just doesn't seem like it wants to move. How much pressure do you really have to put on the bolt for it to move?
I just don't want to snap the bolt off or anything and then be really stuck.
I could get the tensioner to move with a standard wrench but needed to use a double wrench setup to get it all the way to where I could get the hex wrench in there.
You're definitely on the right bolt if you're going counter-clockwise and it's not moving. The other pulleys are standard thread and would just start coming off. I guess your other option is to cut the belt and to replace the tensioner if it's truly locked up. It looked like a PITA to get at the tensioner bolts so I just replaced the pulley since it was cheaper and easier to go that route.
But it it definitely looks like my tensioner is bad. I REALLY had to put some pressure on the tensioner to get it to budge. It’s almost like the inside must be gunked up. It is really hard to move and once you have the tensioner pulled up, it stays loose and very slowly comes back. VERY slowly. And once the new belt was on, I had to pull the tensioner back to tighten it. It wouldn’t come all the way back by itself. But it’s on there and it’s tight.
But definitely going to have to replace it soon it seems.
How many miles were on your cars when you guys replaced the belt / pulleys? My 2011 is just shy of 30k and I bought a new belt (even though the existing one looks fine and does not make noise) because the Mitsu maintenance schedule dictates 30k. Now I am wondering if I should order the pulleys also.
Mine is a 2012 with 60k miles. I wasn't sure 100% is the previous owner replaced it or not. I have his maintenance records. Just didn't feel like going through them to check, since like you said, Mitsu says replace it every 30k.
The new belts Mitsubishi uses are EPDM which are rated for 100k miles. My wife's 2011 Ralliart had 130k on it before the belt started getting squeaky. It actually looked fine, no cracks and you could still read the numbering! It was also still holding tension in-spec.
Her tensioner was good still but the pulleys were TIRED so I just replaced all of them with the belt.
Jan 17, 2019, 04:55 AM
Serp Belt
