robnval

iTrader: (4)

This is exactly what I did. With the Uego connector not fitting through the grommet in the fender I went through the firewall. (I used a higher grommet for what looks to be HVAC wiring or something vs using the Steering column... I just didnt want to be near all of the moving parts) Honestly I didnt have much of a choice though since the wiring for the AEM digital boost gauge is not super long and I was running them to an AMI gauge pillar. All in all this thread was helpful but the AEM install is super easy since they just require switched power and ground.

vastevo

iTrader: (18)

not sure how yo uguys have been tapping your wires, but I would HIGHLY reccommend these:



http://www.amazon.com/3M-3MT-B-100-1...0831999&sr=8-2

Put that on the wire you want to tap (tappee), then use a male spade connecter on the wire that is going to be tapping (tapper).

This method is safer than electrical tape and much easier than using one of those clumsy connectors where you have to hold 2 wires at the same time.

nhowar

the wring part does not work for the 2011's i cut the wire going into the spare button next to the ASC button. i got 12 volts from there, it works fine. just need to find a place to put the dimmer wire

robnval

iTrader: (4)

I didnt cut anything... use these in the fuse box (I'm using AEM gauges)
http://www.cooperbussmann.com/images...86ccd13aad.JPG

CanuckLancer

iTrader: (2)

1 million questions...

What fuse did you use for your AEM gauge using that little setup?

Also where did you get that fuse thing and how much are they?

I have two gauges AEM Boost and UEGO did you use one for each gauge?

Is there enough slots/space for two?

robnval

iTrader: (4)

I used the Cig lighter fuse for both my UEGO and AEM Digital Boost Gauge.

I bought 2 from Autozone for like $3 each but you only need one since the AEM gauges only use a switched power and ground

If you use the cigarette lighter fuse you can wire both into it. I left the OEM size fuse (15amp if I remember correctly) and have had no issues when plugging in my V1 or charging an iphone or Motorola Atrix

Yup plenty of space....

one thing to remember if you are using AEM gauges and an AMI pod.... the wires are too short to follow this how to... you will need to find another way into the car. I went through a grommet in the firewall that I believe held the HVAC wiring with no issues. Hope that helps, best of luck!

lancerarmstrong

iTrader: (5)

that's childs play compared to what i as an installer do for work. some cars make me cry try doing a remote start install on the newer nissan maximas

CanuckLancer

iTrader: (2)

I am using the CP-E gauge pod. Will the wires reach for the Boost and the UEGO?

I am sure the UEGO will but the Boost I am unsure of. I saw someone route the wires out through the door gromit.

Thanks

robnval

iTrader: (4)

Possibly... but I cant say for sure. I know the way that I ran them I have like 2-3ft of slack on my UEGO and about 8inches on my boost gauge

CanuckLancer

iTrader: (2)

I'll make sure and let you guys know how my progress comes along. I am waiting till easter weekend before I do some work on my car.

500whp 335i

Good write up

CanuckLancer

iTrader: (2)

Can you get a picture of this grommet? and where is it located?

I have some pictures of what I got so far. As well, you were right, the AEM wires are to short for a CP-E gauge pod. If you can tell me where this grommet in the firewall is so I don't have to use the fender.

Lastly, I have had some trouble with getting power to my gauges. I used that plug in the fuse box like what was suggested with no results. Simply put, my gauges wont light up. I used the 15amp fuse from the Cig lighter fuse on the internal fuse box and I grounded it out to the steering wheel column bracket on a number 4 bolt. Any advise would be great so I can get these to work. I haven't switched the fuse to the other spot on the little plug. I might try that.


here are my pictures







Another Point: Just so everyone knows its a Ralliart and I am have a AEM UEGO Wideband as well which also wont light up. That should explain the two wires going into the mini plug in the fuse box and the two wires going into the ground.

CanuckLancer

iTrader: (2)

I got power to the gauges just need to get them routed now.

Answer_1

Try putting the fuse adapter the other way around. On my Ralliart, I had the wires coming at the bottom of the adapter and the fuse on the left.

CanuckLancer

iTrader: (2)

Well I changed the ground to the bolt on the fuse box and I also fliped the Add-a-Fuse around and made sure that the Add-a-Fuse had TWO fuses in it. Everything works now so its good to go. The only thing is for the AEM Boost Gauge you will need to run the sensor wire through the grommet in the firewall on the driver side. I used a metal coat hanger to punch a hole in the grommet and pull the wires through the firewall. I did have to cut the wires from the sensor and reattach the sensor wires to the male end of the sensor once the wires were pulled through the grommet. I just used the but end connectors that came with the kit. I zapped the sensor wires to the pipe coming from my EVOX BOV on my RA (I have an RA but this DIY works great). I have attached a DIY I used to route the AEM wires from another DIY on the form. If you are using the AEM gauge DO NOT GO THROUGH THE FENDER the sensor wires arn't long enough IMO. I advise using the attached DIY for going through the firewall and this DIY for the in cabin wiring. I use the CP-E Gauge Pod.

Ref: Attached DIY for AEM gauge sensor wire route through the firewall.

Edit: I'll post pictures tomorrow.