Clipse3GT

iTrader: (10)

I did not see a BUSSMAN Fuse Tape that was rated for more than 10AMP. I looked through their catalog.

I still cannot see a 5 gauges hooked up to draw more than 10 amps.

I think you will be more than fine with the 10 AMP fuse taps. If you need anything more than that run a line from battery and use a large fuse inline then run it to a distribution block.

Spazo

Good call

Frankiago

iTrader: (2)

Why use a large fuse inline when you can add your own fuse block like this:

^currently working on putting this in... you can use ATO fuses ranging from 5A to 40A with this.

Btw, I may be wrong, but I don't think you have the right idea with the dimmer. The dimmer wire is supposed to tap into a headlight signal so that when the headlights turn on, the gauge dims. This would make for a dim gauge at night when you don't need it very bright at all and bright gauge during the day when it would be harder to see.

LapDance

with this setup how many gauges could you run???

yodaman

iTrader: (3)

So, any opinions on using the same distribution block setup for grounds. One for power still, and a separate block for the grounds. I know most gauges are specific in the way they should be grounded. i.e everything grounded to a common lug, but not twisted first. Between 3 gauges and a wideband controller there are a lot of grounds to run. A grounding block will save me a lot of time, but i don't want to create any signal noise from grounding everything through the block. Any feedback would be great.

Blayze999

Hey Clipse,

Could you PM me with what Gauge Pod that is?

DannyK24

iTrader: (2)

Same here. I'm only getting A/F and boost gauges and that's a reallly sweet spot to put them in.

Clipse3GT

iTrader: (10)

It cost me 18 bucks...

Summit Racing SUM-G2878

Clipse3GT

iTrader: (10)

I have no issues running three things into that common ground. Everything works normally. The key is to run smaller AWG or thicker wires to the main terminals. Running skinny wires might now work as well.

linjy2

iTrader: (4)

i took some of the ideas here and am in the process of routing from battery -> inline fuse -> relay -> d-block -> my gauges/radar.

I originally had 4 gauges/radar tapped into the cig lighter and i had some electrical issue, So now i'm going to power it straight from the battery.

Clipse3GT

iTrader: (10)

Cool post up some pics whenever you get done

Djstorm100

iTrader: (1)

Gauges produce hardly any noise. widebands/computers/EBC do however and need to be on different post vs "clean" grounds.

linjy2

iTrader: (4)

explain more.. so does this mean i shouldnt ground all to one bolt? find 4 different bolts if i have 4 different electronic?

zeropanda

This is way helpful thanks!

Djstorm100

iTrader: (1)

some electronics make alot of feedback/ noise. The battery is a gaint filter. if you combine a noisey ground with a clean ground it can make the device(s) not give correct information. Example would be your wide-band produce noises and putting it with a clean ground can make it not read right. Its hard to make sense of it I know

I have a mustang that I've been building for 2 years, its my drag car. I completely rewired it. My gauges are wired in parallel (power and ground) My wideband has its own ground, so does my boost controller.

so basically I have three diferent grounding locations. I have muplite junction studs/blocks in the car for power and grounds.

Of course this is very very unlikely that you will experince any of this.. just remember to scrape away paint and make sure its bar metal for the ground.