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Stock o2 housing removal, downpipe install. Don't be skurrred!

 
Old Mar 5, 2014, 11:26 AM
  #31  
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No you don't. I used a 14mm flex head ratcheting wrench. You can use another box wrench to get the torque to loosen it up. Penetrating oil of your preference will be your friend.

Last edited by hamburger_train; Mar 5, 2014 at 11:29 AM.
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Old Mar 5, 2014, 03:36 PM
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It depends on the way that you want to access the nut. From under the car, no, you don't need to remove the WGA. From under the hood, yes. Needle nose pliers will remove the pin that holds the WGA. Once removed you'll need a short socket extension for yer ratchet to work that bolt.

Under the car was impossible for me, under the hood was cake. PB Blaster!

Good luck!
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Old Mar 6, 2014, 03:09 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by dpspc11 View Post
It depends on the way that you want to access the nut. From under the car, no, you don't need to remove the WGA. From under the hood, yes. Needle nose pliers will remove the pin that holds the WGA. Once removed you'll need a short socket extension for yer ratchet to work that bolt. Under the car was impossible for me, under the hood was cake. PB Blaster! Good luck!
You don't have to do that.

I've taken it off twice already from above with ratcheting wrench
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Old Mar 6, 2014, 03:42 AM
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You don't have to remove the waste gate actuator arm, but for me personally it made a world of difference. To take the actuator arm off you just need a ratchet and extension. Then just take a close-ended wrench and put it around the but and torque away. I have a 2014 GSR and it might be different for other years but this was hands down the easiest way to get to that nut, and I even had the car on a lift. I just couldn't get enough torque with a ratchet and swivel socket...just saying.
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Old Mar 6, 2014, 06:10 AM
  #35  
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What did you have to use the lift for? I accessed all but one bolt from the top. The last bolt I accessed through passenger wheel well with an extension.
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Old Mar 7, 2014, 03:17 AM
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I didn't "need" a lift, but it did make the job much easoer .
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Old Mar 12, 2014, 08:05 PM
  #37  
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Cool, thanks for the information guys. Sorry for the late reply. I was out of town for a bit. I completed job, and yes the PB Blast is your best friend thanks to all.
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Old Mar 12, 2014, 08:06 PM
  #38  
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The next task is a full ETS ULICP system install. Just waiting for shipment from ETS.
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Old Mar 17, 2014, 11:12 AM
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Great write up, I'll be referencing this.
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Old Apr 5, 2014, 07:56 PM
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Great write up. Much better than some of the older ones I've seen. On a side note be advised the bolts on MY o2 housing heat shield were 12mm. Not 10mm, not sure if everyone's the same. Also know that if you remove the spring bolts and take the Downpipe portion off and then the o2 housing, you DO NOT have to take off the o2 housing heat shield. You just have to play with it, but it's really easy.
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Old Apr 14, 2014, 02:30 PM
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Excellent write up! I don't feel as nervous about installing one down the road now
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Old Jun 7, 2014, 02:02 AM
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Completed the install. Took awhile due to the other bolt facing the driver side. Thanks for posting this!
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Old Jul 8, 2014, 04:13 AM
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What are the advantages of going with the o2 dump instead of the recirc?
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Old Jul 11, 2014, 09:38 PM
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Pretty sure open dump has some benefits at much higher horsepower, but its mainly a noise concern. If you want to be obnoxiously loud then get open dump.
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Old Aug 13, 2014, 01:02 PM
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I don't recommend anyone using a hammer as mentioned. No need for that.. You can open another can of worms doing that.
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