ACD/AYC Pump Replacement
 

Does anyone have any info for replacing the Hydrolic Pump? Links to pages, pdf's, how long it takes, if a lift is needed? Mine just went and i'm getting all the info together for the replacement. I know I need to bleed and am working on getting the software. Any info would be great!!! I'm hoping this isn't a royal pain in the a$$.

:helpme:

I just had mine done at the dealer under warrenty and it took them 2 tries because the first time they installed a faulty pump. Thank God it was under warrenty, but either way, it was a major hassle.

I just watched my pump get installed yesterday. If you got a new pump, you can remove the old one and replace in less than an hour. Bleeding the ACD/AYC on the other hand, looks like a real ass pain...ESP if you don't know what you are doing.

I had my pump rebuilt. It was glass blasted, sealed and weatherized - which took about a total of 3.5 hours, from removal to rebleed. The guy who rebuilds them here told me it is not exactly the cold weather like everyone thinks. It is the salt and crap that is destroying the aluminum. Then on super cold days, the corroded aluminum shrinks a little, seal is not there, fluid can't build pressure, and pump burns out.

Thanks mump! So would you say you need a lift to change the pump? I haven't actually looked under the car to see what's needed do to the crappy weather here.

"Bleeding the ACD/AYC on the other hand, looks like a real ass pain..."

As for the bleeding of the ACD/AYC I have software and the cable to activate the bleed function. Why do you say it looks to be a pain in the ass?

no lift to change the actual pump. just some clamps to clamp off the fluid tubes and some basic wrenches and screws. remover the rear bumper, clamp tubes, disconnect the wiring and unbolt the pump bracket.

now to bleed the pump, a lift will be nice. you need to remove the plastic undertray to bleed the acd. the guy doing it removed the acd ecu and plugged a little box with 4-5 switches. this activated the different parts of the pump. he said that that box did in 5 minutes what the mitsu tool and software does in about 50 or so minutes.

bleeding is very easy, provided that you have tephra's tool and a couple of friends
one releases the screws, second turns on necessary actuators, third watches oil level and refills it...

ok, here is the ACD/AYC pump repair video... it is probably too long but I wanted to go in detail... The tools and kits are available, we have managed to produce the non standard parts that are not available from mitsubishi... like the pump plate and the special oil seal between the pump and the electric motor.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/ZrYjQat4KGE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

http://youtu.be/ZrYjQat4KGE

please note, this was done with E9 pump, but I am checking if the kit will fit the X or if we will need to change it a bit..

Thanks for every ones input. I had a chance to check the pump out since we've had a stream of good weather and it indeed looks very easy to replace and bleed. Since I have the Tephra tool, soon I will have the Tactrix Openport 2.0 and i will buying a used 2010 pump on eBay and will undertake the replacement process. Still haven't decided whether or not I will do a How-To since I've never documented anything like that. But I really want to give back to the community so we shall see.

So i think my pump went out my AYC light wont go away and i don't have a code so will my dealership fix the issue under warranty my car has 47k and a few modds

Weird, my pump went last year. all i did was purchase a brand new one for around 1000-1200 at the dealership and installed it myself in the parking lot.

!!! DONT BUY USED!!! i bought a used one from a member on here and got screwed, just not worth the problems.

BUt anyway , What was weird was i never bleed my ayc. Ive been fine since then. I was under the assumption that i woulda had to bleed the ayc but after install i got no light and it ran perfect. That was 11+ months ago

If you wanna be lazy all you have to do is take the back wheel off and fender lining off and it sitting right behind the fender liner on passanger rear wheel.

What i also did FYI is wrapped the key components of my pump with insulator to protect from weather and debri.

What makes me mad now though is knowing i tossed my old pump right in the garbage, i NEVER that they could be repaired!!!

You bought a brand new pump and installed it in the parking lot? And then, you chose not to bleed the system, despite understanding that it should be done?

Gutsy. Ummm and it seems maybe not the best protocol for an important component of the drivetrain. To each his own but I might suggest, if you are going to go through the trouble of replacing the pump and have further expectations that it work properly for a long time (longer than 11 months), than it is worth doing it right.

Will it hurt car if i drive it with the AYC light is on i think my pump went out but i been driving it like that the nearest dealership is like 1hr away from my place .

It's a good question. My understanding is that, if the pump is dead then it is dead and further driving won't hurt anything else. You don't have the AYC system, and all that, but the car should be ok. I might call the dealership and confirm this thinking or do a little more research here. I worry that the dealership will say, "put it on a flatbed" only because it's easier for them then to have to think about what the yellow light means and its implication on the rest of the car.

nice youtube video will be handy if i need to change mine

Unfortunately the time has come and my pump has failed :( Just hit 40K miles. I knew it was just a matter of time before it happened..

Today is the first day to hit single digit temps here in ohio and i know my pump failure has to be related somehow to the extreme cold.. I was just driving on my lunch break when i heard the "ding" and looked down to see that i had the dreaded orange dash with "service required" sign. Once i got back to work i plugged my cobb AP in to pull the codes and confirmed that it was the acd C161e :mad:

Well its going to have to wait until spring to get fixed, i refuse to take my car into :mitsu: I know what i need to do, just cant do it on the freezing cold garage floor :thumbdown. someone needs to make a kit to relocate the pump to inside the trunk to protect it from the elements..

No crap! I also live in NE OH and am at about 40k miles. My pump just died today too, or at least the light came on due to the pump not being able to build pressure. I don't have the means to replace it in the immediate future either :crap: Evo problems... smh

Yeah it really sucks to happen now, i was saving up for some coilovers and new tires for this upcoming auto cross season, but looks like i have to buy a damn acd pump instead... So it seems like they have about a 4 year life span before they burn out..

The company ACD-Tuning "rebuilds" ACD Pumps that are in working condition, my advice is to purchase a new pump and then send it in to be rebuilt and upgraded with stainless steel components to ward off the corrosion. The rebuilt pump should last a lot longer than the stock one. Also I was told by my tuner and other sources that you will not damage your car if you drive with a faulty pump.

That's a great idea, i was actually planning on doing that when i bought a new pump, except i planned on buying their rebuild kit for $200 and doing it myself. Especially with a new pump that will be easy to crack open and just replace the parts. Yeah i figured it was fine to drive without a working acd pump, essentially we are now driving without the S-AWC, but everything else works fine. Most likely going to buy a cheap winter beater and just not drive the X in snow and salt anymore after this season...

Thanks for this info - I just contacted them.

Can anyone provide that part number from the electric motor? The sticker was all gone on mine. I think I need another motor :crap:

I recall someone just blocking the grill vent in front of the pump to keep grime off of it to prevent corrosion. Not sure if it needs any cooling but I doubt the pump itself is where the cooling would occur anyway.

I just invested in an Evo X this past weekend, I was asking the local dealer about this issue and the service adviser said, just because of how cold it gets here (felt like -44C this morning) that the pump will inevitably fail.

Of course this is covered under my warranty, so I'm not entirely too, too worried but - is this really that frequent of a problem?? Cause if so, I might be looking at replacing this a few times unless I eventually move somewhere warmer.. not cool...

Not really, the pump fail is more like a feature that comes with the car, and it is not an optional one :)

I like how they "improved" the new (2008+) ones by sealing the electric motor too, so that we are one step closer to buying complete pumps.

Sounds like a great quirk, I could see a 2008 Evo having it's own particular issues, being an earlier production X, you would think something like that could have been sorted out by the time the 2010's rolled out.

Good to know.

AYC pump electric motor
 

If anyone wants to see the contents of the sealed electric motor on Evo X:
The wire of one of the brushes got burned.
Probably because of driving the car with the pump stuck. It does send power to motor before it realizes it makes no pressure and stops it.
If pump would fail again, I would eider unplug the pump wire or unplug the relay in the engine compartment.

full-size images

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I am in the works of purchasing a 2008. Have the 2010 models fixe the issue? I see frosty temps in Oklahoma all winter, and wonder if I might be able to source a "fixed" 2010 model pump out of a different car.

Makes me glad it doesn't get crazy cold down here in FL. Hopefully mine will last :/

Unfortunately its the same exact Pump from 2008, no improvement, same part number.

I think we need to reiterate that it's not the cold or freezing tempts that are killing the pumps but rather the corrosion build up

I have a 2009 ralliart with 66k. last year mid winter we had a random warm day around 60degrees, i got the light, since that day i haven't gotten the light till yesterday when we had another random day. i took car to mitsu to have code scanned since it wouldn't come up in evoscan for some reason. turns out its c161e- pump.... so i guess ralliarts have same corrosion problem

Yeah it's pretty much the same pump minus the AYC line.

I seen the service steps for the "awc pump" error that we all have, and it mentioned that the pumps work much harder when temperature is under around -10 Celsius or sobecause oil gets thicker.

Must be an Ohio thing... I just had mine fail in January too. Also had the dreaded "Triangle Check - stretched timing chain" message pop up a week ago. Had the dealer pull the codes yesterday. P0012, P0134, C161E, C161F.

I'm going to rebuild the pump myself with the ~$200 kit. I saw that there is a kit with a tester included for $400; is it required for the bleeding process?

Also, I found a timing chain replacement how-to the other day but now I cannot find it; can anyone point me in the right direction?

I'm curently in the middle of rebuilding a pump for someone right now, the tester is not needed for bleeding the pump. The dealer should do this job as I hear its a PITA, you need the MUT III tool that is the kicker. (Or get the program from Tephra)

It is also proving to be a PITA to just dissasemble the pump, its so corroded that nothing comes apart easy. Lots of cutting and hitting and grinding is involved.

AFAIK, you cannot purchase the rebuild kit and rebuild your stock pump if it has already failed. Once that pump burns out, it is gone for good I think. Not 100% sure, maybe contact the vendor, but I was under the assumption that you needed a brand new OEM pump and then apply the rebuild kit to that part. Just double check to see if the stocker is toast before you rebuild it for nothing, we wouldn't want you spending time, effort, and money on something that won't help. Best of luck! And post up what you find out!

Is there a vender that manufactures a shield or skid plate looking part that "protects" the pump? I thought I saw one somewhere at some point...

No this is not true, the rebuild kit is for REBUILDING a used pump. Watch the video on 'How to rebuild the AYC pump'. I would not tear into a brand new $2000 pump. if you get a new pump seal that thing up with silicone RTV or somthing and install a pump guard

IF the electric motor is burnt out then you need to buy a new pump. IF its the pump that has failed then that is what the rebuild kit is for. {thumbup}

From my understanding and research, 99% of failed pumps have to do with the electric motor burning out because it cannot cycle the fluid in certain cold temps or their is so much corrosion inside the pump that it cannot build pressure and the c161e fail code usually has to do with the pump motor which usually means that its to late for a rebuild... their is no "rebuild" for the electric pump motor, the rebuild kits are for just the pump itself as a preventative measure or you happen to catch the problem before the pump burns out... If only Mitsubishi sold the electric pump motor separately it would be SO much easier and cheaper to replace!

My mistake, thanks for clearing that up guys!

How do we know if the problem is the electric motor or the pump itself ?

Good question - I just phoned my dealership and asked them this specific question.

I got "the ACD pump failed, it's all one unit". Basically not helpful at all, haha.

You can test the electric motor just by putting some power too it and see if it works, this is no guarantee that it’s in perfect condition as Scox1026 said most pumps fail because of the thickened fluid at colder temps burning out the motor.

I tested the pump I'm currently working on and it seems fine, I applied a little load to the motor when running and it seemed to be able to overcome it.

On a side note, my rebuild of a pump has ground to a halt, trying to split the 2 half’s seems impossible. I was able to get about a 1/8" gap but the remaining bolts are so corroded that they won’t let go (and I've tried everything heating, hitting, pulling with a crank pulley puller...) I can see the inside of the pump a bit and its completely filled with broken bits of corroded metal and what looks like bluish rock salt (probably some type of corrosion) basically I think the pump is shot and the motor and solenoids might be salvageable.

motors can be rebuilt... unfortunately evo X motors are much harder to rebuild than earlier ones...

as for pump disassembly..

you need to grind away the pump housing, around the bolts.. check out the second vid..

then the two halves will go apart easily...

Rebuild kit is for pump rebuild,.. not the motor rebuild unfortunately.. (but I am working on motor replacement and solenoid overhaul..:)

But, I have yet to see a pump that couldn't be rebuilt...

I did this yesterday...
You can directly put 12V on the motor connector without taking the pump off the car.
If there is no existent pressure in the pump then you can hear motor spin, but if there is pressure already, then motor will spin slowly or not at all and will not make much sound, and is probably dangerous to force pressure in the pump like that.

Anyone knows if there is anything that has to be done at dealer with MUT III tool after rebuilding the pump (some calibration maybe) ?

I keep taking mine apart and after putting it on the car it works for a while, 1-2 hours, then error returns. :crap:

I am close to putting gas on it and just burn it. {thumbdwn}:mitsu:

so there a member that rebuild he pumps who and how much?

i believe the person you are talking about is from canada..i cant find the thread right now

You might have to bleed the lines. Air gets in the system when you disconnect the lines to the pump. That's what the MUT III tool is used for.

I was thinking that there are other things the MUT III does besides bleeding.
We did a bleed without MUT, just by gravity after fixing the motor, errors are gone but they reappear when the differentials are supposed to start working (e.g accelerating in tight corners). I will try a bleed at the dealer this week.

Has anyone been able to source a replacement motor for the pump yet? I took mine apart and the motor is toast. Pulled the motor apart and it appears one of the brushes exploded. Anyone know where I can get replacement brushes?

I read a forumer before who rebuilt his acd pump and sent his acd motor to an electrical shop to be reconditioned. Most electrical motors use the same principle so an electrical shop should be able to help you out with that.

Hi,

I know this thread is old, but got a question.

I've been driving my Evo X MR with the AYC/ACD lighst on and always show ACD service requeried, the lights is because of the AYC pump failure? or it could be a selenoid or the pump fuse?

I'm outside the US, so I must be sure if it is the pump failure, because I'll buy one soon.