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They say dirt but yes overtightening could strip it and maybe warp something. When I brought it up in the car with the rep the tech said they were all hand torqued. The dealer is the only place the wheels have ever come off.
They say dirt but yes overtightening could strip it and maybe warp something. When I brought it up in the car with the rep the tech said they were all hand torqued. The dealer is the only place the wheels have ever come off.
I've honestly never seen a dealership or tire place hand-torque lug nuts. It's all about using an impact and, if you are lucky, MAYBE a torque stick. They messed up, but you can't expect them to take the blame. I've caught shops doing crappy work and they swear "it wasn't me".
I've honestly never seen a dealership or tire place hand-torque lug nuts. It's all about using an impact and, if you are lucky, MAYBE a torque stick. They messed up, but you can't expect them to take the blame. I've caught shops doing crappy work and they swear "it wasn't me".
yep this /\/\/\
They impacted it on. Maybe did not even get it started threaded correctly. You have to ask for the use of torque sticks now. Actually had to replace a stud once on the evo when i had tires put on at a Tire Rack retailer. They used impact gun. After replacing the stud, i have always asked them to use torque sticks or hand torque the lugs. And I watch them to make sure......:-)
Oh and that goes for all my cars, Hyundai to Mercedes to Ram 3500
Pad deposits=> first look up the proper bedding procedure .. then bed the pads properly,
Note that some pads are more prone to deposits than others. YMMV :-)
Make sure the hub mounting surface and rotor mating surface is clean.....i mean really clean shiny metal
Never re use pads that show taper..if they taper find out why ( caliper, caliper mount, stuck piston etc )
Tiny bit of lube on the pins, the spring in the caliper and the pad mount tabs reduces any squeal from vibration harmonics ==> doesnt do anything for pad deposits
Harder pads squeal more, deposit less. See lube items above
When in doubt, re-bed the pads.....
If the issue goes away after a long drive on the interstate at constant 75 mph speeds, it is because you now have an even coating of pad deposits on the rotor......:-)
Lastly some pads come with an abrasive coating on the pads to clean off the rotors...follow the break in instructions that come with the pads
Here's the update, made it through the weekend without issue, praying it's fixed properly now! If it goes bad again we need to focus on calipers.
Thanks again everybody!
I've honestly never seen a dealership or tire place hand-torque lug nuts. It's all about using an impact and, if you are lucky, MAYBE a torque stick. They messed up, but you can't expect them to take the blame. I've caught shops doing crappy work and they swear "it wasn't me".
You need to visit Euro Tire in Fairfield NJ.
They always tourqe down each wheel.
Anything good in Maine, near Portsmouth or Dover NH? The brakes are still holding up after 1k miles so the new hubs appear to be the official fix but I don't want to speak too soon.
Brought it back to the dealer today for more brake shudder, new oem front rotors are warped already after getting fixed. They say improper storage at the factory may have caused it. They're going to put another set of new rotors on, need to order parts etc., is this real life? Move this to the brake section if necessary it looks like a larger problem than I thought. Good grief!
Didn't you mention they stripped a lug nut?
Rotors don't warp. But there is 2 potential issues:
1) Uneven material deposit due to not breaking in the pads.
2) Improper lugnut tightening process... so if they stripped a lugnut, they are probably using an impact gun to tighten your wheels... basicaly your dealership is incompetent... not surprising though.
Rotors don't warp. But there is 2 potential issues:
1) Uneven material deposit due to not breaking in the pads.
2) Improper lugnut tightening process... so if they stripped a lugnut, they are probably using an impact gun to tighten your wheels... basicaly your dealership is incompetent... not surprising though.
I have literally never seen #2 warp a rotor. Not once, ever. I have seen external causes such as excess runout in the hud, rust/foreign material on the hub mating surface and of course uneven pad deposits. But never due to uneven torque on lug nuts.
My theory at this point is they damaged the hub with over torque on that stripped lug, maybe even back in June when this started because the wheels didn't come off all summer, and he told me it happened when they took the wheel off in the fall.
Caution, idiot thinking ahead: They put new rotors on damaged hubs and the hubs then warp the rotors somehow. I can easily imagine the pulsation occuring within an hour if I drove it hard after the first 2 repairs, I BARELY used the brakes so it took days to happen. I can't think of a more plausible cause because the new hubs seem to have resolved the problem, but no idea how it could feel perfect out of the service bay and broken 500 miles later!
I have literally never seen #2 warp a rotor. Not once, ever. I have seen external causes such as excess runout in the hud, rust/foreign material on the hub mating surface and of course uneven pad deposits. But never due to uneven torque on lug nuts.
I have personally experienced this myself.
Here is an article better explaining the issue. It's not the braking process that wears rotors, it's driving without applying the brakes when lugnuts are incorrectly torqued.
I have installed many sets too and I doubt my install was the issue. wire brushed the hub to make sure I have a clean surface and then bed properly. Torquing the wheels correctly as well. I'm not going to just try re-bedding my pads ever 10k or so. I don't ride the brake and never hold until stop. Showbox jiofi.local.htmltplinklogin
Nov 27, 2018, 11:52 AM
