Wheels and spacer
 

I have the Enkei RS05RR in the 18x10.5 25 offset with Yokahama AD08r 265 35. Running about -2.5 camber. Before I had the wheels installed I bought 5mm spacers just in case. Once they got the wheels on they fit without the spacers, but it is very close to the springs. I am running Ohlins. When I make a sharp turn I hear clicking and I can't figure out what it is. I am thinking about putting the 5mm spacers on. Also once these tires die I may go Hankook Ventus R-S3 (Version 2)in 275 or 285. I have ran through 4 sets of AD08's and just want to try something different.

Out of curiosity, is there any advantages, disadvantages to handling with having 5mm spacers on the front only? I am not talking safety. Just wondering if the extra 5mm on each side changes handling in anyway at the track.

Thank you.

Increases scrub radius
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scrub_radius

http://www.hrsprings.com/technical/scrub_radius

"Positive and negative scrub radii have benefits in different types of suspension. A MacPherson strut assembly typically performs well with a lot of SAI and caster, a system negative scrub works well in. Because both SAI and caster increase the amount of camber on the outside wheel when steering, the fulcrum pivot point is at a point that has more leverage, requiring less steering effort. Negative scrub also helps reduce torque steer in front wheel drive cars. Positive scrub radius works well with suspensions that use dual control arms that use less caster and SAI to optimize geometry."

http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...and-Scrub.aspx

"Here is your review of scrub radius. Hellaflush advocates take notice. This stuff matters if you care about performance. With careful tuning you can have a functional Hellaflush car. If you increase your KPA you can reduce your scrub even with a wheel with more offset. Increasing KPA moves the Dave point toward the center of the tire. It should be balanced with more positive caster though.
It is good to have a little scrub radius as it helps develop steering feel, the feeling of the steering wheel getting light as the front tires lose grip and firmer with more grip. It also helps improve the self steering effect. For a RWD car you generally want to run between ¾ of an inch to as much as 3”. In AWD and FWD cars, you want to try to limit the scrub radius to less than 2” because it increases the effects of torque steer."

Man that is some tuff to understand...im not a smart man..

i was running 18x9.5 +15 wheels with some 265/35/18 tires. I put a 5mm spacer on all four corners and I noticed a difference right away. Car seems more stable and planted now from the slightly wider track. Camber is -2.2 (f) and -1.5 (r)

without getting into the math or a complicated post like the one above (that i'll take the time to look up, one day), i found quite a few articles that stated lots of cars run a bit wider in the front. it's been forever, so i can't back that up with links.
i just remembering that a wider track in the front is beneficial, in general. i know it works for pick up trucks LOL

I am currently running 5mm spacers on mine with ARP Wheel Studs and I have no issues. Car seems very stable, but I do not track it or drag it so for that part I cant answer.

I run the RS05RR's in 18x10.5 +15, and at full turn lock I rub the fender well and it makes a rubbing sound. Even with my setup and +15, the spokes on the wheel run close to the calipers so I cant imagine how close your wheel is to the springs at +25, since its a 10.5. I would suggest taking the wheels off and checking every part in your wheel well including brakes, tie rods, axles, etc to see if there is any rubbing.
The wheel at +15 sticks out about 1 inch from the car so it has a beefy look. I also have -2 in the front wheels and the car feels railed since from one wheel to the other it covers so much ground with grip. If you got the spacers I would imagine it to have the same feel if you got spacers? I doubt you would really feel a difference though.
Also I don't know if you can run 285s without puling your fenders, or unless youre gonna run like -3 all around. Feel like that would rub more on the springs and fender. 275s work well for me {thumbup}

use the adjustment bolt on the strut to pull the wheel away from the coilover. use the camber plates to set the camber, not the strut bolts.

Thank's everybody. I put them on. Don't really notice a difference.

As far as alignment and camber, The coils are pretty much as far as they can go from what I see. Maybe they can go a little more. Car was aligned by West End here in CA which has a good reputation for track alignments so I trust what they did.

I ended up getting the 275 35 Bridgestone 71R's. I think everything is good.

Thank's again

Assuming coils = coilovers?

Yes, Ohlins

I am running 20MM Garage Line Spaceds with Zero Issues! Love Them

Nice! The DFV is the best all-around street/track coilover on the market and their track stuff is amazing. IMO

The camber bolt at the hub can only go one way or the other, there is no between. Make sure you are at the positive camber setting. This will give you more tire to strut clearance then the other way around.

Then use the top camber plates on the coilovers to adjust the camber. This will not change tire to strut clearance no matter what the setting.

How much can camber be adjusted with the Ohlins? I believe I am at -2.5 between moving the Ohlins and adjusting the bolt.