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Brake bleeding issues
I just swapped pads and rotors yesterday and proceeded to bleed the brakes in the following order:
LR RF RR LF Used ~3' vinyl tubing, twist tied to the shock spring (so up about 10") and then running it to a bottle 1/4 full with new brake fluid. The method I used was a one-person gravity bleed where I left the cap off the reservoir, pumped the brakes a couple of times, cracked the outer bleeder, waited 10+ minutes, pumped slowly a couple of times, waited another 10 minutes, then closed and repeated on the inner. Whole time monitoring the reservoir and topping off every time it dipped below the MAX line. Air bubbles came out and eventually subsided at every bleeder. At the end, after recapping the reservoir, I pumped until the pedal got hard as a rock, then started the car. Pedal was mushy with an audible single click about mid-way through travel. I figured it's air in the system. I proceeded to two man pump method with my wife (pump 3 x & hold down, I crack the bleeder for 1-2 seconds, then close, she lets off... we repeat). No air bubbles came out at any bleeder after repeating this about 2-3 times a bleeder. Get back in car, pump pedal up till stiff, start it, and same thing. Mush with a single click. Got frustrated and went to bed. Woke up, did same method as first time with same results. I don't want to mount the wheels just to hear the brakes dragging and ****ing up my new rotors/pads. What am I doing wrong? Can you not gravity bleed an evo? The method I used the first time is exactly what I used on my s2000 prior to getting the evo and always produced rock solid pedal feel that I loved. |
Originally Posted by Cosmic Starship
(Post 11878978)
I just swapped pads and rotors yesterday and proceeded to bleed the brakes in the following order:
LR RF RR LF Used ~3' vinyl tubing, twist tied to the shock spring (so up about 10") and then running it to a bottle 1/4 full with new brake fluid. The method I used was a one-person gravity bleed where I left the cap off the reservoir, pumped the brakes a couple of times, cracked the outer bleeder, waited 10+ minutes, pumped slowly a couple of times, waited another 10 minutes, then closed and repeated on the inner. Whole time monitoring the reservoir and topping off every time it dipped below the MAX line. Air bubbles came out and eventually subsided at every bleeder. At the end, after recapping the reservoir, I pumped until the pedal got hard as a rock, then started the car. Pedal was mushy with an audible single click about mid-way through travel. I figured it's air in the system. I proceeded to two man pump method with my wife (pump 3 x & hold down, I crack the bleeder for 1-2 seconds, then close, she lets off... we repeat). No air bubbles came out at any bleeder after repeating this about 2-3 times a bleeder. Get back in car, pump pedal up till stiff, start it, and same thing. Mush with a single click. Got frustrated and went to bed. Woke up, did same method as first time with same results. I don't want to mount the wheels just to hear the brakes dragging and ****ing up my new rotors/pads. What am I doing wrong? Can you not gravity bleed an evo? The method I used the first time is exactly what I used on my s2000 prior to getting the evo and always produced rock solid pedal feel that I loved. Section 35A-16: http://www.evoxservicemanual.co.uk/P...006600-35A.pdf Yes, sounds like you still have air in the line. Try bleeding with the car on so you have vacuum assist. Edit - Also double check all of the bleeder valves are tight. How were the brakes doing before you swapped the rotors/pads? |
This happened to me once. Remember to bleed the inner and outer valves on the caliper. I often find More air bubbles in the inner. I use a motive power bleeder for flushes, reverse bleeder for occasional bleeding and gravity bleed a bit always before closing the valve. Rock hard pedal.
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