I tried to a search, but I can't seem to find an adequate description to my problem (or what I think might be a problem). This is what sometimes (depending on how I release the cluth pedal) happens when doing a cold start: the car slightly lurches forward (it doesn't exactly move), it just feels like a slight motion forward. The car is in neutral with the park break on when I start it, this happens either when on a hill up or down, or on flat ground. This seems to happen only after overnight parking cool down period. I believe I have a stock clutch, but DRAGIN seems to think it is aftermarket. One last thing, this started happening middle of March. I did have a transmission fluid change at a non-dealership service garage on March 1st. They told me they used GL-4 75w90, not sure if this makes a difference. Yes, I know it is not 75w85, and according to DRAGIN most definitely not OEM fluid. Any suggestions?

Outside of that I have no other problems with the transmission (some idle noise with the clutch pedal not depressed and in neutral gear, but is ok I think), and I know Schaller Mitsu service department had quite a ride on my car while it was serviced, they said that it was fine.

 

Sounds like the clutch isn't fully disengaging.

Try adjust the clutch rod OUT so that it pulls the clutch away from the flywheel. The adjustment how-to is on Evomoto.com, but it's very easy.

 

Maybe I was a bit off in my description of the symptom. This happens after I let go of the clutch pedal completely.

 

Yes, and that's exactly what I was referring to...

 

My car has 35k iv only had it the car for maybe 5k.Last week was the first time i launched the car,fooling around with my friends 05 GSXR 1000(ill post up the vid soon) so know when im driving my in 3rd,4th or 5th my car feels like clutch is sliping only from 4000 to 5000 not when the clutch is just engaging.Iv checed all the hoses and found this one 1/4in hose that was not hooked up to the injectors.i hooked it back and add some clamps and the car still runs funny.is this poor turbo driving skills or a bad vac??? Warrtalon HELP!!!

 

Your clutch is probably slipping. This is normal for 35k miles. Go do the test I gave you in PMs.

 

Try bleeding your clutch line also. That and pedal adjustment took care of my exact issue.

Good luck!

 

sounds like your either your leaking clutch hydroulics so its simulating engaging the clutch or your clutch disc or pressure plate springs are broken and are not disengaging the clutch.

 

Warr, you said to pull it OUT (out away from firewall into cockpit? or OUT away from the cockpit into the firewall?) Anyway, I adjusted it to be OUT from firewall, which made it (clutch) get closer to the flyweel. The car started fine this morning (could not recreate the symptoms I described originally). I will see again tomorrow morning (I have to wait for an overnight cooldown period).

 

Out as in away from the firewall, but that shouldn't put the clutch closer to the flywheel.

 

Well, maybe I am wrong, but this is what I think. You press on the pedal, and the clutch comes appart from the flywheel, you let go of the pedal, and the clutch (pressure plate, whatever it is called) comes in contact with the flywheel. So if I make the rod go away from the firewall, it makes the pedal be positioned lower on the rod (which reduces travel) and makes it so that the clutch stays closer to the flywheel when you press on the pedal.

That is why I questioned adjusting the rod to begin with, I see it needing adjustment if you have trouble shifting. But I do not see how it affects the clutch when the pedal is not being depressed.

 

That's opposite. Moving it out makes your pedal engage much higher and moves the clutch further from the flywheel. If the rod is too far in, then the clutch can engage the flywheel even at idle.

 

Maybe we're miscommunicating here, just tell me which one of these I should do:

"To move the rod higher and increase travel (move engagement up), turn the rod clockwise. To reduce the travel (move engagement down), turn the rod counter-clockwise"

And then I will post some more. BTW, this morning, car did the same thing as always, slight forward motion after releasing the clutch pedal after starting it.

 

Ok, put it this way. Reduce the number of threads remaining at the end of the rod. The result will be that it moves your clutch engagement higher. This shouldn't be such a huge problem if you're using the write-up at Evomoto.com . It's unbelievably simple.

 

Well, reduced the number of threads remaining (i.e. turned the rod clockwise). Still having the same weird forward rockinng/motion/lurch after start. Clutch engagement/disengagement is different now when I drive the car, but like I said before I wasn't having an issue with it before.