Warming up your car...
If I have time I start up the car and don't drive till the needle moves a little bit. Then I don't get on till it gets to full temp.
Other times I'll spark and go if I don't have the time to let it warm-up, and most of the time I still end up being late because I won't get into boost till it's at normal temps anyways :-p
Other times I'll spark and go if I don't have the time to let it warm-up, and most of the time I still end up being late because I won't get into boost till it's at normal temps anyways :-p
2.5K is pretty extreme the oil psi gauge i have doesn't even read 100psi in the cold until 4k. I think if you just drive it light and keep the rpm's under 4.5k your not going to run the oil pump to the point of bypassing oil due to thickness.
Ive drove off in my car when it wasnt warmed up and some ******* was trying to run me off the road getting on the freeway ( my house is about 3 minutes from the freeway btw) car wasnt warm wouldnt build more then 5psi of boost I think thats a saftey feature to not ruin the motor, cause theres a substatial power loss, but once its warmed up it rips again.
Some of the folks may want to keep in mind that the car isn't fully warmed-up until the oil reaches its operating temp. The gauge in the dash measures the water temp; the oil takes significantly more time to come-up.
Right now as it's in the single digits here- I try and warm the car up for at least 5 minutes. Since I have a mini-battery it's also been a lot of fun getting her started each time. Argh....
thats not to good neither because the oil has have to cover the cams and lub many parts and holding 2.5k is still a lil high at first, unless you 2.5k then into 2nd and the shift at every 2.5k? but yea thats what i heard.
Its been pouring here all of a sudden and freezing cold in the morning around the 50s.
btw i was re-reading the post and im thinking what needle? then i realize the X have digital readings which are inaccurate.
thanks everybody for your input...
warm up car
anymore more input



btw i was re-reading the post and im thinking what needle? then i realize the X have digital readings which are inaccurate.
thanks everybody for your input...
anymore more input


Yea I have no choice but to let my car warm up for about a min or so in this cold as hell colorado weather, plus im still running 10w30 which scares the crap outta me considering it could freeze alot easier
This is what i use:
http://www.amsoil.com/catalog.aspx?group=177
I had to start my evo at -17 two days ago. It hurt me to do it. I wish the cold start didn't send the motor instantly to 2k rpm. I had to pull hard on the ebrake to keep the car from hitting the garage in neutral.
Letting a car idle for too long isn't good. On many turbos the oil seals don't seat without boost pressure so the engine inhales a little more oil. A cold idling car pollutes a lot because it is running rich closed loop and the cat can't light off. As soon as the needle moves a hair I go, but I drive super easy and shift at 2500 rpm until normal operation temperature is reached.
Letting a car idle for too long isn't good. On many turbos the oil seals don't seat without boost pressure so the engine inhales a little more oil. A cold idling car pollutes a lot because it is running rich closed loop and the cat can't light off. As soon as the needle moves a hair I go, but I drive super easy and shift at 2500 rpm until normal operation temperature is reached.
but yea just drive it easy till operating temp...shifting frickin sucks when its cold....and im not talking about cuz my shift knob is metal, the shifting feel sucks lol
I do the same as most. Start it up, wait for the needle to move a bit, then take off and take it easy.
50's is not cold at all!!!! I don't use heat either unless it's really freezing, muhaha
I'm used to it!
50's is not cold at all!!!! I don't use heat either unless it's really freezing, muhaha
I'm used to it!






