Hey everyone,

New dream car owner here. Finally was able to get into an 05 SSL! I love this thing. It feels like a go-kart on rails. She needs a little bit of work, but she's already got pistons, cams, and a pretty aggressive 93 tune on Haltech Elite 1500 to be a lagzilla highway monster. When the boost hits peak, it's pretty scary. I think it's roughly at 450hp, but I'm going to get it retuned to be a bit more mild and peppy in the lower/mid ranges soon which will likely need a newer turbo since it's on an older Garret 4 bolt T3 turbo. Before I tackle the huge mods, a few minor things I want to do asap are listed below and I've searched a bunch to no avail. Any assistance or recommendation is appreciated. I can make individual threads if that's more appropriate.

Electronics and wiring are admittedly my least knowledgeable subjects:

Sound - Although it's an SSL, it's missing the factory sub/enclosure. I have a spare box and a BOSS 12" sub which I'm assuming will need a bigger amp than the factory one to be powered sufficiently. There are a ground, power, and 3.5mm(?) cable all running to the trunk. I'm thinking this was used to power another, aftermarket amp which was wired into a sub. Does that sound about right?

Keyless Entry - The car came with traditional 2 keys, a FOB, and a WV-style key/fob combo. I cannot manage to get the FOBs programmed to the car. I have done the jumper procedure to put the car into pairing mode correctly (each step within 10 seconds of the previous step) and the FOBs won't lock/unlock the doors on the final step, even with a new battery in both fobs. I've read that this could be related to a turbo timer wiring which the car doesn't have although it certainly could have in the past. Anyone else have advice on what else to search for?

Gauges - This one is pretty easy probably, and I will search more into these, but I have a GReddy AFR on top of the steering column shroud which works perfectly. In addition, on the a pillar, I have a boost gauge (powered but not reading) / additional afr gauge (powered but not reading) / voltage gauge (powered and reading correctly) - I would ideally like to fix the second afr so I can remove the one from the steering column as it's in the way of most of my rpm gauge. Anyone have advice on where to start looking outside of pulling the pillar cluster off and tracing wires/vacuum lines? I noticed a vacuum line running under the passenger side of the dash, but unsure where it should run to after that so I can search for it in the engine bay. I also don't see any additional O2 sensors or anything of that nature under the car.




Cheers!

 

Nice looking good.

 

Check around the intake/valve cover for an extra vacuum line. If you see the line running to the passenger side of the dash you likely have it tapped in off the back side of the intake. It’ll stick out like a sore thumb 99% of the time since all the vacuum lines run to the driver side.

As for the AFR, those cables tend to be relatively long. If they are the same gauge, like an AEM UEGO, most likely the pulled the cable from one gauge and ran it to the other instead. Otherwise it’s probably flopping around under your dash. My line routes in around the trans tunnel on the passenger side through a chassis plug under the carpet.

Happy hunting!