New 9 turbo/wastegate doesn't seem right
 

What's up guys im in need of some help. I recently purchased an Evo 9 stock turbo from FP. Im really stressing on this new turbo because the wastegate actuator doesn't seem to be sitting right well the flapper part of the wastegate. I've done some searching, but im still confused. :( I basically need to know if the adjustment is correct. I will provide some pics for reference. Please help me out with this i really don't want to install it and find out that im not boosting due to the wastegate. If you can provide some pics of how the wastegate sits i would appreciate it.


https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at...1&d=1323404456

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at...1&d=1323404528

Thats just the amount of preload it has and will affect the way the turbo holds boost up top . If you wanted to you could always adjust that and give it less preload . I would say just leave it alone but if the car starts to over boost or boost creep you could just loosen it a little bit and try to find a sweet spot for your set up .

no way to really tell unless its on the car, put it on and run the car (go easy) and leave the heat shield off so you can adjust it if need be. For reference mine is preloaded as much as possible for the stock actuator.

Got it! thanks guys for the response. I guess ill have to wait until I install it, and ill just go on from there. It might not be until January though, because im waiting to purchase other supporting mods. I already have IC, Injen ICP, Megan Mani and 02 housing, Cat-back, and downpipe but im redoing all with other brands. I know its a waste of money but i just want it to be right.
Any idea after tune and mods in what hp range should i be in? Im going to get a dyno tune to see the progress, but im just anxious to find out. I have cams and gears but the cams are unknown because i bought it like this.

Your power is going to really depend on how far you want to push the tune. Should be over 300 at least. I was at 320 (virtual dyno) with just o2 housing, turbo back, intake, and licp. But I've seen posts in the dyno section with less than that and more mods. I tune my car and with meth I"m now at 399-400whp on the virtual dyno.

Thanks Man. Well hopefully i can achieve some pretty decent numbers considering the parts that i have. I probably sound like a wanabe, but it is my first Evo so i guess that's why. Imagine going from a 2g eclipse non turbo to an evo...wow you can expect to be anxious about everything hahaha.
You got some good numbers by the way...Congrats hopefully i can get to those number one of these days.

Could you expand on what you mean when you say that the actuator doesn't seem to be sitting right? Are you talking about the flapper valve or the canister? I am not sure what you are referring to exactly?

Before you install the turbo, is a good opportunity to familiarize yourself with the basic workings and adjustment of the actuator assembly. You can fiddle with it now on your workbench.. Once it is on the car, it is more difficult to see what you are doing and to access the thing. Also, if you try and adjust it after driving you are likely to get a really good burn. It gets pretty hot down there.

First off loosen the backup nut behind the turnbuckle and then remove the cotter pin that secures the turnbuckle to the pivot arm on the flapper valve. With a flat blade screw driver gently pry the turnbuckle away from the flapper valve. Now rotate the turnbuckle on the threaded end of the actuator rod lengthening or shortening it until the hole in the flat on the end of the turnbuckle slides freely on and off of the flapper valve peg.

That position is referred to as base wastegate pressure and on the 16G it is usually around 11-12 PSI. From that point you'll want to preload the wastegate spring somewhat otherwise you will get doggie spool up.

So, a lot of peeps recommend that from that base position you shorten the overall length of the actuator rod by three full 360 degree rotations clockwise of the turnbuckle. This should get you in the ballpark at about 14 PSI of spring pressure more or less. Some people like more preload depending mostly on what their peak boost level will be set at and how partial they are to quick turbo spool up, etc.

However, just leave it at three full turns and install it that way. Once it is mounted on the car and you have driven it some, then you can readjust the actuator more to your own taste. Like I said this will get you in the ballpark though.

Thanks for the info sparky. My concern about the wastegate actuator is the preload setting in which i got it. I bought this turbo from FP and well im new to evos so i didnt really know about the settings. The reason i was worried its because when i got the car i had to remove the exhaust mani to weld the runners for the reason that they were starting to crack. So i took off the whole turbo with 02 so it could be easier. When installing the turbo back i put the wastegate, and at this time i didnt know anything about the adjustment so i noticed it wouldnt slide easily into the peg. So i just used a lil air pressure to help me slide it in. By the time i started my car my boost guage was only reading 3-5 on the vacuum side. I ran my car for a while, it totally sucked because it felt sluggish! Finally i went to a performance shop where they told me that it was possible that the flapper was staying open because of not installing the wg right.
I adjusted the knob like i was told, but till now i dont thing i got it to the right preload setting.
To get to the point the wasgate i currently have doesnt have a huge gap where the canister is at. So thats why i was concerned.
Do you recommend me leaving it the way it is, or adjust it to the way you are telling me. Obviously FP must know what they are doing i cant question that.