MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

Jasons car & mine are similar in engine mod. I still have the stock MAP sensor, but my tuner used his 4 bar sensor when tuning. Im currently running 24lbs of boost but have run 27psi on that stock sensor

The 3 port boost solenoid is needed so the tuner can do ECU boost which is more exacting than a manual controller. Not sure, off hand, if the stock solenoid is just a 2 port? The tuner will remove your stock boost pill & w/the 3 port solenoid can really dial-in the boost parameters

kaj

iTrader: (60)

You need a different MAP sensor in order to log boost for tuning. You can use the JDM MAP sensor or aftermarket. As MinusPrevious mentioned: you can borrow one; it's only for tuning purposes. It will need to read enough boost to data log, that's about it. It will need to be capable of logging whatever your peak boost is. 2 BAR would probably work.
If you don't think you will run more than 24psi, then a 12lb spring should be fine, but you may want to go with something closer to the minimum boost you will want to run.
An aftermarket boost solenoid is used so the ECU can control boost. The OEM solenoid isn't up to the task.

Lumpy Sticks

iTrader: (3)

Ok you guys are slightly confusing me now haha.

If the 4 bar MAP sensor is just being used for logging, does it completely replace the factory one or you tee it in as a separate sensor? This meaning something similar to when I use HP Tuners and connect a wideband to it. The cars ECU doesnt see it but the tuning software does, strictly for logging. I guess I am confused cause whenever I have tuned, I can log the factory MAP sensor and dont need an external one.

As for the solenoid, I take it that the factory one, if it is indeed a 2 port, only connects to one side of the WG and the 3 port solenoid would use both sides of the WG? If so, that makes sense.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

Sounds like you need to start from square one. I'd search the "sticky" threads on this site to try to figure out what you need to know to get up to speed. It would take quite some time to type out a step-by-step guide for someone just starting out.
In regards to your post:
MAP sensor: You take off your OEM sensor and replace it with one that will data log the amount of boost you need to tune. The ECU will read boost from this sensor and show it on data logs, so you tuner can do his thing. If it's a loaner, take it off when you are done and then put the OEM one back on. As far as I know the OEM sensor won't log high enough psi, but it's been a while and my memory is kinda foggy. Someone else can chime in on that. There is no "external" map sensor. Our cars use the OEM MAP sensor location, read through the ECU, and it all shows up in the tuning software.
I highly suggest finding a good tuner and having him advise you on what's easiest for him to do.

A three-port solenoid has a third port to bleed boost pressure off. It's very responsive. I'm not even sure the OEM solenoid can be used. Never tried.

Lumpy Sticks

iTrader: (3)

I have tuned many cars before so I am not really worried about that part. I guess it's the part that I have never had to change a map sensor out just to do the tune. Just odd to me. If I have to change it out, its staying in. I cant say I have used an ECU to control boost either. I have always done it off spring pressure or with an electric boost controller.

I'm going to do some reading up on the solenoid. It should clarify a few things for me. I'm sure once I get the tuning software in my hands and I can mess with it, that will help too.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

Our MAP sensors don't read high enough to log the boost most of us run. I forget how high it actually reads.
T​​​​he solenoid acts as an electronic boost controller.
The ECU acts like a standalone.
We're lucky that our ECUs can be hacked to do almost everything a standalone can and that we have plug-and-play sensors that work with them.

Lumpy Sticks

iTrader: (3)

I agree with you. I'm impressed with how many options there are for the stock ECU. More then any other oe ecu I have seen. It's awesome.

I know that most people do a lot more boost then stock and I can see the need for a 4 bar then. But I'm only going to bump it up a few psi, so I should be well below the max a 3 bar map can see. Again, once I can mess with the tuning software, questions will be answered.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

Fo sho. Good luck!

Lumpy Sticks

iTrader: (3)

Thanks! And let the fun begin!



Edit - Looks like I found one of these little guys laying around.

Lumpy Sticks

iTrader: (3)

Aem wideband ordered as well. I figured out the whole map sensor deal too. It all makes sense now. Our factory sensor is a 1 bar, not a 3 bar like I thought. So a jdm map has been ordered as well. I just need to order an o2 housing with an extra bung in it and the tuning can begin. Not sure if I want to get the down pipe and lower intercooler pipe just yet or not. I think I'm going to wait until I get my AZ plates so that the CA smog ****'s dont come after me.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

Any O2 housing will have an O2 bung for the primary O2 sensor. You want your wideband elsewhere. Most of us put them on the downpipe ,before the cat. I've never had an issue passing the smog visual test with it there.