View Poll Results: WHO WANTS THE EVO MR AFTER SEEING THE US MR PICS..WAT A DISAPOINTMENT
I DO



168
69.14%
I DONT



75
30.86%
Voters: 243. You may not vote on this poll
evo mr
I agree, it doesn't just lock and unlock. I never said it did. It actively alters torque distribution in the rear, from one side to the other.
Yes, it is more complex than a Limited-Slip Diff (I assume that's what you mean by a torque diff.). The scope of the question made it unnecessary to explain the intricate details. That can be found on the web.
The end result is that torque is transferred from one side to the other, to correct understeer and oversteer conditions.
Everyone should keep in mind that 50:50, 40:60, or any other torque-split ratio is under ideal conditions and is valid only if there is traction to make it happen. If there is slippage, then the torque is not transferred to the ground fully, and a limited-slip device sends it back to the tires which do have traction.
Yes, it is more complex than a Limited-Slip Diff (I assume that's what you mean by a torque diff.). The scope of the question made it unnecessary to explain the intricate details. That can be found on the web.
The end result is that torque is transferred from one side to the other, to correct understeer and oversteer conditions.
Everyone should keep in mind that 50:50, 40:60, or any other torque-split ratio is under ideal conditions and is valid only if there is traction to make it happen. If there is slippage, then the torque is not transferred to the ground fully, and a limited-slip device sends it back to the tires which do have traction.
Originally Posted by ru4real
I agree, it doesn't just lock and unlock. I never said it did. It actively alters torque distribution in the rear, from one side to the other.
Yes, it is more complex than a Limited-Slip Diff (I assume that's what you mean by a torque diff.). The scope of the question made it unnecessary to explain the intricate details. That can be found on the web.
The end result is that torque is transferred from one side to the other, to correct understeer and oversteer conditions.
Everyone should keep in mind that 50:50, 40:60, or any other torque-split ratio is under ideal conditions and is valid only if there is traction to make it happen. If there is slippage, then the torque is not transferred to the ground fully, and a limited-slip device sends it back to the tires which do have traction.
Yes, it is more complex than a Limited-Slip Diff (I assume that's what you mean by a torque diff.). The scope of the question made it unnecessary to explain the intricate details. That can be found on the web.
The end result is that torque is transferred from one side to the other, to correct understeer and oversteer conditions.
Everyone should keep in mind that 50:50, 40:60, or any other torque-split ratio is under ideal conditions and is valid only if there is traction to make it happen. If there is slippage, then the torque is not transferred to the ground fully, and a limited-slip device sends it back to the tires which do have traction.
Originally Posted by mrcoolhandsome
i like the leather seats look with the mr. Wonder how good they feel in corners
I'm still interested in the MR, even if the only differences are the 6-speed and Bilsteins. I really like the MR headlights, taillights, and interior, but if those don't make it into the USDM version, then it's no big deal. The transmission and suspension are more important to me, and cosmetic mods can be easily done later.
The selling price will be the only factor that could make me favor the standard '05 Evo over the MR. I'm estimating that if I can save $4-5K by buying the cheaper version, then I'll just mod the suspension for $2-2.5K (good coilovers+install), add some power mods, and be happy with the 5-speed.
The selling price will be the only factor that could make me favor the standard '05 Evo over the MR. I'm estimating that if I can save $4-5K by buying the cheaper version, then I'll just mod the suspension for $2-2.5K (good coilovers+install), add some power mods, and be happy with the 5-speed.
Originally Posted by ru4real
The selling price will be the only factor that could make me favor the standard '05 Evo over the MR. I'm estimating that if I can save $4-5K by buying the cheaper version, then I'll just mod the suspension for $2-2.5K (good coilovers+install), add some power mods, and be happy with the 5-speed.
Originally Posted by Cannonballer
Exactly!! Evo GSR + $5,000 > Evo MR in terms of performance, which is why most of us are buying the car.
^^^this is true if you're willing to sacrifice your warranty to mod your GSR.
granted, we hear horror stories about mistu voiding warranties for stupid reasons....but if you keep your MR bone stock (and don't advertise your intentions to race), mitsu will have a very tough time denying coverage. the warranty adds value to the MR side of your equation.
granted, we hear horror stories about mistu voiding warranties for stupid reasons....but if you keep your MR bone stock (and don't advertise your intentions to race), mitsu will have a very tough time denying coverage. the warranty adds value to the MR side of your equation.
Originally Posted by Tanner_Hall
^^^this is true if you're willing to sacrifice your warranty to mod your GSR.
granted, we hear horror stories about mistu voiding warranties for stupid reasons....but if you keep your MR bone stock (and don't advertise your intentions to race), mitsu will have a very tough time denying coverage. the warranty adds value to the MR side of your equation.
granted, we hear horror stories about mistu voiding warranties for stupid reasons....but if you keep your MR bone stock (and don't advertise your intentions to race), mitsu will have a very tough time denying coverage. the warranty adds value to the MR side of your equation.
neone know what time the MR pulled at the nurburgring? sine part of it's development was done on that track id expect to find a time somewhere but i cant :S
neone know ? im guessing the 280hp base version would pull 8min 1 sec +- a couple seconds while the higher level FQ320 and FQ340 versions would pull maybe 7min high-mid 50s respectively
neone know ? im guessing the 280hp base version would pull 8min 1 sec +- a couple seconds while the higher level FQ320 and FQ340 versions would pull maybe 7min high-mid 50s respectively
Originally Posted by racerxl99
i still do the mr. heh heh. 12ks for a down payment, 15ks for the mods, and 10ks from girlfriend to do mods. heh heh
Still the best car you can get for $33G if you like performance driving.
Count me in
it doesn't. go to www.mitsubishicars.com click on the link at the bottom right, go to specs, no AYC.

