I need HELP tuning my UTEC!!!
I need HELP tuning my UTEC!!!
Alright I am bit green when it comes to tuning my UTEC I am just bascially looking to at least have to 3 maps setup one for 93 octane and one for 94 octane and last one for 100+ octane. Now the problem is that I dont know exactly what and when needs to be changed in order for my setup to work correctly to each map.
Here is a list of my Mods and Maybe you guys can lead on the right path:
Hks RS
HKS 264i/272e
Hks EVC
Hks HIpower exhaust
Fidanza cams set at -2
Helix DP and O2 housing
UR 3" highflow cat
Greddy Type-s BOV
Greddy 720cc injectors
Stock Turbo, Intercooler, piping, and Internals.
Now how do i tune my fuel map for the gas I am going to running is it negative number or positive number? Same question goes for the timing? I need help understanding what make want.
I was told the the Stage 2 program make your car run to lean and I understand the EVO's have to run rich but how do I make that happen.
And I did mention I am green to this UTEC system I understand how its supposed to work but I need guidence on making it work.
Thanks in advance to anyone who can help.
Here is a list of my Mods and Maybe you guys can lead on the right path:
Hks RS
HKS 264i/272e
Hks EVC
Hks HIpower exhaust
Fidanza cams set at -2
Helix DP and O2 housing
UR 3" highflow cat
Greddy Type-s BOV
Greddy 720cc injectors
Stock Turbo, Intercooler, piping, and Internals.
Now how do i tune my fuel map for the gas I am going to running is it negative number or positive number? Same question goes for the timing? I need help understanding what make want.
I was told the the Stage 2 program make your car run to lean and I understand the EVO's have to run rich but how do I make that happen.
And I did mention I am green to this UTEC system I understand how its supposed to work but I need guidence on making it work.
Thanks in advance to anyone who can help.
Ok, where to start? First off, this is just my opinion, so do with this what you may.
To tune: (this is how I do it)
You need to adjust your boost to the setting you want. (ie 21 psi)
Next you adjust your fuel to get target AFRs. (11.2 or so when boost tips in)
Lastly is the timing adjustments.
I am running basically the same setup as you, so check my post for my map, log, etc. here at : https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=115473
This will give you a starting point for the mods you have. To adjust fuel, you will decrease the numbers, in the particular load sites, to remove fuel. This will 'lean' the condition, causing your AFR's to increase. To add fuel, increase the numbers in the particular load sites. This will 'richen' the condition causing your AFR's to decrease.
On the timing side, to create more HP, you need to add timing. By doing this, your AFR's will richen up, but when you re-adjust the fuel to get the 'leaner' condition, you may start to see knock. I would recommend that you do any timing adjustments on a dyno to see if the gains are big. If the gain is small, then you will need to leave the timing where it is.
Since my post, referenced in this post, I have made some changes to my setup. I have changed some of my map points, and set my gears at -3,-3. This has produced 324hp/333tq.
Now for the disclaimer. No two cars are identical, even if the mods are exactly the same. I posted my maps/logs for a reference for other UTEC users. You may want to use my map, but I would definately consider increasing the fuel on all points to have some sort of a safety margin.
I hope this helps.
To tune: (this is how I do it)
You need to adjust your boost to the setting you want. (ie 21 psi)
Next you adjust your fuel to get target AFRs. (11.2 or so when boost tips in)
Lastly is the timing adjustments.
I am running basically the same setup as you, so check my post for my map, log, etc. here at : https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=115473
This will give you a starting point for the mods you have. To adjust fuel, you will decrease the numbers, in the particular load sites, to remove fuel. This will 'lean' the condition, causing your AFR's to increase. To add fuel, increase the numbers in the particular load sites. This will 'richen' the condition causing your AFR's to decrease.
On the timing side, to create more HP, you need to add timing. By doing this, your AFR's will richen up, but when you re-adjust the fuel to get the 'leaner' condition, you may start to see knock. I would recommend that you do any timing adjustments on a dyno to see if the gains are big. If the gain is small, then you will need to leave the timing where it is.
Since my post, referenced in this post, I have made some changes to my setup. I have changed some of my map points, and set my gears at -3,-3. This has produced 324hp/333tq.
Now for the disclaimer. No two cars are identical, even if the mods are exactly the same. I posted my maps/logs for a reference for other UTEC users. You may want to use my map, but I would definately consider increasing the fuel on all points to have some sort of a safety margin.
I hope this helps.
Last edited by sgplancer; Mar 4, 2005 at 07:22 AM. Reason: Thought EVC=EIDS, so removed comment on EVC
Originally Posted by Widebandphillip
Hks evc is the boost controller. I think you're thinking of the eids which is for vta.
Originally Posted by Widebandphillip
I"m jealous of your dyno numbers lol.
Andy just needs to una$$ some money and get some injectors and gears. This will push me to the 3071R...... so on and so forth.
Quick question is your set for 93 octane?
Thanks for the start it will definitly help.
Thanks for the start it will definitly help.
Originally Posted by sgplancer
Ok, where to start? First off, this is just my opinion, so do with this what you may.
To tune: (this is how I do it)
You need to adjust your boost to the setting you want. (ie 21 psi)
Next you adjust your fuel to get target AFRs. (11.2 or so when boost tips in)
Lastly is the timing adjustments.
I am running basically the same setup as you, so check my post for my map, log, etc. here at : https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=115473
This will give you a starting point for the mods you have. To adjust fuel, you will decrease the numbers, in the particular load sites, to remove fuel. This will 'lean' the condition, causing your AFR's to increase. To add fuel, increase the numbers in the particular load sites. This will 'richen' the condition causing your AFR's to decrease.
On the timing side, to create more HP, you need to add timing. By doing this, your AFR's will richen up, but when you re-adjust the fuel to get the 'leaner' condition, you may start to see knock. I would recommend that you do any timing adjustments on a dyno to see if the gains are big. If the gain is small, then you will need to leave the timing where it is.
Since my post, referenced in this post, I have made some changes to my setup. I have changed some of my map points, and set my gears at -3,-3. This has produced 324hp/333tq.
Now for the disclaimer. No two cars are identical, even if the mods are exactly the same. I posted my maps/logs for a reference for other UTEC users. You may want to use my map, but I would definately consider increasing the fuel on all points to have some sort of a safety margin.
I hope this helps.
To tune: (this is how I do it)
You need to adjust your boost to the setting you want. (ie 21 psi)
Next you adjust your fuel to get target AFRs. (11.2 or so when boost tips in)
Lastly is the timing adjustments.
I am running basically the same setup as you, so check my post for my map, log, etc. here at : https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=115473
This will give you a starting point for the mods you have. To adjust fuel, you will decrease the numbers, in the particular load sites, to remove fuel. This will 'lean' the condition, causing your AFR's to increase. To add fuel, increase the numbers in the particular load sites. This will 'richen' the condition causing your AFR's to decrease.
On the timing side, to create more HP, you need to add timing. By doing this, your AFR's will richen up, but when you re-adjust the fuel to get the 'leaner' condition, you may start to see knock. I would recommend that you do any timing adjustments on a dyno to see if the gains are big. If the gain is small, then you will need to leave the timing where it is.
Since my post, referenced in this post, I have made some changes to my setup. I have changed some of my map points, and set my gears at -3,-3. This has produced 324hp/333tq.
Now for the disclaimer. No two cars are identical, even if the mods are exactly the same. I posted my maps/logs for a reference for other UTEC users. You may want to use my map, but I would definately consider increasing the fuel on all points to have some sort of a safety margin.
I hope this helps.
Yes mine is set for 93. Don't forget that I have 700 CC injectors, and did not scale them in the open loop menu. This will be benificial because your 720's will run a little richer with my map. All things being equal that is.
Thanks. Now let me get this right if I just the tune the timing and fuel to make my AFR at least 11's it should run pretty smooth?
Originally Posted by sgplancer
Yes mine is set for 93. Don't forget that I have 700 CC injectors, and did not scale them in the open loop menu. This will be benificial because your 720's will run a little richer with my map. All things being equal that is.
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I attack things in a bit of a different manner.
I start by going out and loading down the car in all the gears at various RPM's. So for instance. I'll take the Stage II map from TurboXS then go out and do a pull at %100 throttle in all the gears from 2000 to 3000 rpm's. As I do this I will be correct knock issues by retarding timing .5 to 1 degree each time until the knock goes and adding fuel if I do not match my target AFR's. I repeat this process through redline in 1000 rpm increments.
Once I have all the knock issues taken care of then I do long pulls from 2000 to redline. This is easy in 1st through 3rd but once you get into 4th you will have some issues with speed. Not to mention 5th really isnt feasible to tune unless you have a dyno since its so dangerous to max 5th out on an open road.
The idea is to hit as many load cells as possible since it better reflects what you will be doing in the car. MalibuJack has a good starting suggestion to just put your UTEC on bypass for a few days to a week and just log everything so you can get a good feel for what your car is doing.
Anyway,
Once you get all the knock issues resolved and you have met your target AFR's then you can start advancing timing in different load cells to get more performance. This is tough to do on the open road though since its hard to tell if the change you made benefits you or hurts you. This is where a good dyno comes in handy.
Hope this helps and good luck!!
Forgot to mention that you want to keep an eye on your Inj Duty cycle too. If your injectors are getting overloaded then you may need to turn down your boost or put bigger injectors in.
I start by going out and loading down the car in all the gears at various RPM's. So for instance. I'll take the Stage II map from TurboXS then go out and do a pull at %100 throttle in all the gears from 2000 to 3000 rpm's. As I do this I will be correct knock issues by retarding timing .5 to 1 degree each time until the knock goes and adding fuel if I do not match my target AFR's. I repeat this process through redline in 1000 rpm increments.
Once I have all the knock issues taken care of then I do long pulls from 2000 to redline. This is easy in 1st through 3rd but once you get into 4th you will have some issues with speed. Not to mention 5th really isnt feasible to tune unless you have a dyno since its so dangerous to max 5th out on an open road.
The idea is to hit as many load cells as possible since it better reflects what you will be doing in the car. MalibuJack has a good starting suggestion to just put your UTEC on bypass for a few days to a week and just log everything so you can get a good feel for what your car is doing.
Anyway,
Once you get all the knock issues resolved and you have met your target AFR's then you can start advancing timing in different load cells to get more performance. This is tough to do on the open road though since its hard to tell if the change you made benefits you or hurts you. This is where a good dyno comes in handy.
Hope this helps and good luck!!
Forgot to mention that you want to keep an eye on your Inj Duty cycle too. If your injectors are getting overloaded then you may need to turn down your boost or put bigger injectors in.
Thanks man I am just really looking for a start something to go by and really give me sense of direction.
Originally Posted by PDXEvo
I attack things in a bit of a different manner.
I start by going out and loading down the car in all the gears at various RPM's. So for instance. I'll take the Stage II map from TurboXS then go out and do a pull at %100 throttle in all the gears from 2000 to 3000 rpm's. As I do this I will be correct knock issues by retarding timing .5 to 1 degree each time until the knock goes and adding fuel if I do not match my target AFR's. I repeat this process through redline in 1000 rpm increments.
Once I have all the knock issues taken care of then I do long pulls from 2000 to redline. This is easy in 1st through 3rd but once you get into 4th you will have some issues with speed. Not to mention 5th really isnt feasible to tune unless you have a dyno since its so dangerous to max 5th out on an open road.
The idea is to hit as many load cells as possible since it better reflects what you will be doing in the car. MalibuJack has a good starting suggestion to just put your UTEC on bypass for a few days to a week and just log everything so you can get a good feel for what your car is doing.
Anyway,
Once you get all the knock issues resolved and you have met your target AFR's then you can start advancing timing in different load cells to get more performance. This is tough to do on the open road though since its hard to tell if the change you made benefits you or hurts you. This is where a good dyno comes in handy.
Hope this helps and good luck!!
Forgot to mention that you want to keep an eye on your Inj Duty cycle too. If your injectors are getting overloaded then you may need to turn down your boost or put bigger injectors in.
I start by going out and loading down the car in all the gears at various RPM's. So for instance. I'll take the Stage II map from TurboXS then go out and do a pull at %100 throttle in all the gears from 2000 to 3000 rpm's. As I do this I will be correct knock issues by retarding timing .5 to 1 degree each time until the knock goes and adding fuel if I do not match my target AFR's. I repeat this process through redline in 1000 rpm increments.
Once I have all the knock issues taken care of then I do long pulls from 2000 to redline. This is easy in 1st through 3rd but once you get into 4th you will have some issues with speed. Not to mention 5th really isnt feasible to tune unless you have a dyno since its so dangerous to max 5th out on an open road.
The idea is to hit as many load cells as possible since it better reflects what you will be doing in the car. MalibuJack has a good starting suggestion to just put your UTEC on bypass for a few days to a week and just log everything so you can get a good feel for what your car is doing.
Anyway,
Once you get all the knock issues resolved and you have met your target AFR's then you can start advancing timing in different load cells to get more performance. This is tough to do on the open road though since its hard to tell if the change you made benefits you or hurts you. This is where a good dyno comes in handy.
Hope this helps and good luck!!
Forgot to mention that you want to keep an eye on your Inj Duty cycle too. If your injectors are getting overloaded then you may need to turn down your boost or put bigger injectors in.