i just got a tuner pro it is used i have a cel fix from buschur racing on my o2 sensor
i wanted to know if i could just take out the stock o2 sensor pull it inside the car and
pull out the wideband that comes with the tuner and screw in the stock o2 sensors place since it didnt come with the o2 bung, and if that way it will still keep the cel light off since it has the fix on it

thanks for your help (oh and i did try a search i couldnt find anything)

 

you can put it in thewideband in the rear 02 sensor bung and just turn off the cel notification using the utec.

 

wont that shut it off completely

 

Is the CEL fix electronic or plumbing(extended O2 bung)?
If electronic, just hang the sensor under the car. Don't move it inside, it gets very hot, (It's heated). If it's a plumbing fix, you'll need to drill and weld in a new bung for your wideband. Any exhaust shop can do it. It' the best way anyway.

 

its electric cel fix so i could just leave it outside and place the utec o2 and it won throw a cel

 

It still may throw a CEL. An additional bung is the only guaranteed CEL free way.

 

maybe i'll give it a shot see how it goes if not ill have to weld a bung if anyone else has a idea if this will work your help will be greatly appreciated

thanks

 

I would highly reccomend getting a second O2 bung welded on. You want to get the O2 sensor fairly close to the Exhaust manifold, but not so close you burn it up. I use the TurboXS reccomendation of putting it on the downpipe at the second bend. The further back you put that O2 sensor the less accurate it will be.

I got an O2 bung from a Muffler shop and got it welded on for only 20$.

 

if you have a Cat it's not a good idea to have a Wideband after the Cat.
otherwise I have tested the A/F Ration reading is similar with a Bung on the downpipe or on the rear Exhaust. (that's without a CAT)

 

I found a .5 difference between the downpipe and a location further back. 0.5 may not sound like a lot but its the difference between 11.5 at redline at an explosive 12.0. When it comes to AFR's you want to shoot for accuracy not marginality! Its one of the most important areas to look at while tuning!

 

no cat

 

so i may have a differnt reading with putting it on the cat delete pipe

 

I'm not sure it will make that much of a difference. Most dyno shops put the sensor on a probe that they stick in the end of the exhaust. I have mine in a bung I had welded into my cat delete pipe.
I've seen posts from LM-1 and AEM, where they said don't put it so close to the turbo. You don't want temps consistently above 900F.

 

thanks everybody for your help im goin to go ahead and put it in the cat delete pipe and see how it goes, if anybody else has any suggestions or warnings i would love to hear them

thanks

 

The difference between the back of the down pipe and where the CAT is really isnt huge. For the best accuracy possible you should put it in your down pipe but at the back end of the pipe so you dont put it in an area where the EGT's are going to be too hot. The O2 sensor runs really hot as it is and adding additional thermal wear would be bad and will cause false readings.

Putting it into your cat will most likely give you minimal differences in readings and should allow you to tune. I would probably add .1 to all my readings for high RPM tuning just to be safe. Also, make sure you complete a free air calibration on the O2 sensor before plugging it in. You can do this through the Tuner box via a PC connected through Hyperterminal. This is an easier method then doing it manually with the dip switches then needing to update the Tuner box. You should get a reading between 250 and 299. To ensure your accurate after the CAL just go for a quick drive and during a part where you are only part throttle and cruising along at 45 just check your AFR's. You should be right around 14.7. Even sitting at a red light idleing you should be around 14.7. This assumes of course that you havent changed anything for your map in the 0% load area that would cause you to run rich or lean.