I am wondering why a particular shop told me that when getting a tune, Ecutek is better than a utec. Is there any reason why? I would think either one is just about the same when it comes to the amount of increased hp/torque they can produce. I appreciate any input.

P.S. I know one is a flash and the other is an actual stand alone.

 

The UTEC is actually a piggy-back, not a stand alone ECU. True, it does more than most piggy-backs do, (i.e. actual ignition timing control, etc) but it still relies on your factory ecu for many things. This isn't a bad idea, as you get to keep all the best code and safety features that was originally developed for your car, and you have the ability to fine tune that code for performance. The UTEC gives you the ability to control other things such as nitrous and alky injection, boost control, and you have the ability to log all sorts of info on your car. When you add mods, you can re-tune it yourself w/o additional expense- if you're proficient with tuning. You will, however, want to purchase a wide band o2 sensor to help you with your tunes, to avoid a lean condition and detonation.

The ECUTEK is a re-flash of your factory ECU. You do not have the ability to modify the timing, boost, fuel, etc on your own with just an ECUTEK flash. Only ECUTEK dealers/tuners can modify your ECU. Once it's programmed in- it's there. You have to send your ecu off or go to an authorized ECUTEK dealer to re-flash it.. at additional expense each time. I would say that most people go this route- as it's less expensive, less can go wrong, and you don't have to purchase a WB02 plus you don't have to learn how to tune. Less can "go wrong" with the ECUTEK, as you don't have additional hardware/wires under your dash. An ECUTEK tune will actually re-program your factory maps so that you will always have increased performance. Piggybacks "lie" to the ECU to try and trick it to give you better performance.

 

Also, the UTEC has a additional optional feature called remote map switch which allows you to efectively change up to 8 different maps(previouslu tuned maps) by just switching a dial switch(I am not including the ignition kill map and the vallet map).


I am not sure if ECUTEK has that feauture mentioned before.

Carlos

 

so, by using one over the other you won't get more hp/torque. I really thought that was stupid when the shop told the Ecutek produces better results.

 

You are correct. That is a true statement for most evo owners.

If you are going to go hog wild and build an all-out race car then you wouldn't want just an ECUTEK reflash.. but then again.. you probably wouldn't go with a UTEC either. You would go with a stand alone. (i.e. aem, autronic, motec)

 

If you get the DeltaDash setup with the ECUTeK there is actually user tuning features as well as logging (Extra $350 or so, but worth it). ECUTeK is very safe, has launch control, boost control, and all the tuning features of the UTEC but also provides you with the "from the factory failsafes" to make sure you don't hurt your car. I prefer ECUTeK but to each his own.

 

UTEC has static timing, a crappy DOS interface, and has burned out coil packs like crazy on Subarus.

I'd definitely take an ECUtek custom tune from a reputable tuner over a UTEC.

 

It all depends on what you want out of the car, I run the UTEC cause I wanted to have multiple maps for race gas, methanol, and combos of the two...

 

Is the DeltaDash available for Evos? Their website makes it sound like only Subarus.

 

only thing i dont like about the utec is the "SWITCHOVER" from factory ecu to when the utec takes over. Whatever that TPS is set to...and if your consistantly driving in that area you can feel the switching on and off of the utec. Maybe it was my tune...but thats what my tuner said has got to happen. Im going to lean towards the flash next time becasue its basically the factroy ecu(which u can never go wrong with) and just utilizes it very well. If your going for alot of features and mega hp id probbly go standalone, but for a regular flash i hear good things about ecutek.

 

Im the one who bought your utec and I looked at some of the maps in there, your switch over was in the 40-50%load cells. I have my old timing map in there right now and the "bump" isn't there. I found a way to completely eliminate it, and my switch over is from 0-10% load. Usually its set in the low 30% to high 20% tps position. Usually cruising around town is in the area of 10-19% tps

I guess it's what you know about the system, Im lucky to have one again and to have quite a few others in my area that also have a utec in their car. I have played with almost all of them and have one left to play with. Everytime I set-up either the timing or the fuel map I use the same prcedure and each one of those cars does not and will never have a "bump" in their system.

I still dont know why I got rid of the UTEC in the first place, thank god Im back

 

glad you like it! the reaon for the switch over to be so high is because when I took it out for a road tune i was always sitting in the "switchover position" so my tuner raised it so I wouldnt be there as often. Are you running it off of MAF, MAP?

 

Thanks everyone..keep the info. coming.

 

Im running it off of MAF right now until I can get my hands on another molex conntector to hook up the MAP sensor again. It's wierd that my fuel map from my previous utec to this one is a night and day difference, but the timing map is fairly the same. Only thing Im going to end up changing is the higher rpm/load because of the alky.

I have a thread in the UTEC forum on how to build a base timing map from just a few pulls in ECU mode, this gives you a very smooth transition then afyter that you can start to advance your timing very slowly until the "bump" comes back and just back off .5-1 degree of timing. I have learned and taught myself a few tips and secrects of tuning the UTEC and most of it comes in from the parameter changes and how they affect the tune. I ended up reflashing the UTEC so I can put in all of my old parameters and leave the ones I dont use alone.

I really can't wait to start with the timing map and see how well the car performs. Im not going out to do a do or die run but just a slightly conservative timing map for the street and a more agressive one for the track. They shouldn't really differ that much in all honesty. Now that I have a great alky kit (SMC) I can get the tune down close to perfect in a few runs. Right now the car is running 11.5 afr with 27.5psi with alky. I could lean it out just a little more but dont want to push it just yet. I have to get a new BOV which will always hold that boost since I know the stocker is leaking quite a bit.

 

actually utecs do not burn coilpacks on subarus, and the utec might have a "crappy" interface but it is simple and easy to navigate and lets you change what you need to.
a good tune on a utec is just as good as an ecutek tune, the only feature that ecutek has over the utec is its ability to autotune, but if your tune is correct in the utec in the first place, then it is a moot point. as for the timing the utec will actually interpolate the timing values based on your map inputs and therfore is actually a really good way of controlling timing.

please dont spout information about things you do not know