Used Tuner Pro Install
Used Tuner Pro Install
I appreciate everyone's help answering my newb questions so far. MalibuJack, you've been very helpful, thanks for that!
One more.... on a Used Tuner Pro install, my Tuner harness has three inputs, one comes from the 02 sensor, one comes from the knock sensor, and one is for power/ground. I've got the 02 sensor wire bundle figured out. My problem is, I've got two leads left, obviously one is for the knock sensor and one is for the power/ground. Both leads have a red wire and a white wire. The only way to distiguish between the two is one lead is shorter, and one is longer. And when I say lead, I mean there are three wire bundles that exit the serial port (the third is larger and is for the 02), but the other two are identical aside from length, grey covered and heat shrinked at the end. But there are not plugs on the end of either, just a red insulated and a white insulated wire on each lead exiting the heat shrink tubing. One is about 8" long and the other is about 4'. The knock sensor is connected to about a 5' lead that has the same red/white wire combo in it, and it terminates with heat shrink tubing on the end but no plug. I'm thinking someone just cut the plugs off and left bare wire on the end, or some other quick route to uninstall the thing.
Anyone have a clue which lead is for power/ground and which lead is for the knock sensor? The trusty ohm meter comes out tomorrow to see if I can't figure it out myself, and that will be followed by a call to TurboXS. I hate to call a vendor on a used part.....
One more.... on a Used Tuner Pro install, my Tuner harness has three inputs, one comes from the 02 sensor, one comes from the knock sensor, and one is for power/ground. I've got the 02 sensor wire bundle figured out. My problem is, I've got two leads left, obviously one is for the knock sensor and one is for the power/ground. Both leads have a red wire and a white wire. The only way to distiguish between the two is one lead is shorter, and one is longer. And when I say lead, I mean there are three wire bundles that exit the serial port (the third is larger and is for the 02), but the other two are identical aside from length, grey covered and heat shrinked at the end. But there are not plugs on the end of either, just a red insulated and a white insulated wire on each lead exiting the heat shrink tubing. One is about 8" long and the other is about 4'. The knock sensor is connected to about a 5' lead that has the same red/white wire combo in it, and it terminates with heat shrink tubing on the end but no plug. I'm thinking someone just cut the plugs off and left bare wire on the end, or some other quick route to uninstall the thing.
Anyone have a clue which lead is for power/ground and which lead is for the knock sensor? The trusty ohm meter comes out tomorrow to see if I can't figure it out myself, and that will be followed by a call to TurboXS. I hate to call a vendor on a used part.....
Thats exactly what happened.. Unfortunately if the wire was cut off its hard to tell.. Worse comes to worse you can call TurboXS and buy a new wiring harness, It'll be hard to tell by the length of the harness since they were cut off..
Its so hard to get the wiring harness run correctly through the firewall in most locations that the only practical way to do it is to cut the wiring and reassemble it..
I would suggest that the power harness is probably about 1-2 feet long...
Its so hard to get the wiring harness run correctly through the firewall in most locations that the only practical way to do it is to cut the wiring and reassemble it..
I would suggest that the power harness is probably about 1-2 feet long...
The picture helps, I'm going to take a logical approach to this..
The O2 sensor cable was cut to allow it to pass through the firewall,
the shorter 2 wire cable was cut at around the exact same length as the O2 sensor wire..
The longer wire looks untouched..
Whoever cut it did a nice neat job, but forgot to label anything specific.. LOL but since you have to run power under the dash somewhere, its logical to me that the slightly longer wire was the one he used for power, where the shorter one appears to be the same length as the other wire which passed through the firewall...
I could be wrong, but you don't really have much of a choice, I would suggest testing for a ground though, since the white wire is the ground wire for the power, you should be able to test it with a multimeter against any of the exposed metal shells for the DB9 (serial connections) and it should give you your answer...
The knock sensor is just a piezo microphone and therefore if you tested its connector for ground, it should read infinity or at least much higher than the ground wire since its signal is passed into an amplifier..
The O2 sensor cable was cut to allow it to pass through the firewall,
the shorter 2 wire cable was cut at around the exact same length as the O2 sensor wire..
The longer wire looks untouched..
Whoever cut it did a nice neat job, but forgot to label anything specific.. LOL but since you have to run power under the dash somewhere, its logical to me that the slightly longer wire was the one he used for power, where the shorter one appears to be the same length as the other wire which passed through the firewall...
I could be wrong, but you don't really have much of a choice, I would suggest testing for a ground though, since the white wire is the ground wire for the power, you should be able to test it with a multimeter against any of the exposed metal shells for the DB9 (serial connections) and it should give you your answer...
The knock sensor is just a piezo microphone and therefore if you tested its connector for ground, it should read infinity or at least much higher than the ground wire since its signal is passed into an amplifier..
OK, I'm not an electrical engineer, but it worked out, using the same logic as you did Malibu. What sold it was the fact that if you jumpered the serial connector shell to the power wire going to the 02 sensor, or to the red wire heading to the knock sensor, resistance would slowly bleed down starting from about 1.5 megaohm, the longer you held it, the lower the resistance kept gettng. If you jumpered the serial connector shell to the red wire used for power supply, resistance would slowly build. Making the assumption the two sensors would respond the same, and the power supply would respond as odd man out, I hooked twelve volts up to what I thought was the power/ground wires. No nasty smell like when you fry a circuit board, and the display came on. Whew, I'd hate to have smoke the Tuner before I ever got to use it.
As an FYI, power is pin 15 and ground is pin 12 on the serial connector. Also, the casing is not conductive. Looked like simple aluminum to me, what is it? Magnesium?
As an FYI, power is pin 15 and ground is pin 12 on the serial connector. Also, the casing is not conductive. Looked like simple aluminum to me, what is it? Magnesium?
