Will a 4g93 turbo manifold fit a 4g94?
 

(Sorry to all in advance, but i'm new to using forums)

I'm trying to turbo my 2003 lancer LS by myself (w/ some help), but having a hard time finding a manifold. I have found on another site that a 4g93 turbo manifold will fit the 4g94. I need that verified.

Also, what else would I need. I'm trying to copycat the RRM turbo kit, but unsure if it is in fact a complete kit. What kind of piggyback system will I need? Will an aem, or a GReddy e-manage ultimate, etc work with the 4g94?

ya it should fit wats this link i wotn still yours but i also need one

What you need depends on what you want.

If you plan on running 7-9psi, you don't really need any type of piggyback. The Ecu will compensate. Though, a piggyback system would allow you to squeeze more power out of it.

You'll need:
Turbocharger
Manifold
Misc piping
Intercooler
Bov(one that recirculates)
fuel pump
piggyback and/or fmu and/or fpr
Wastegate
Gauges (Boost, Wideband, Egt)

Stock injectors are fine, unless your plan is high boost application.
Plus whatever I forgot

dude with just low psi... do you really need fuel pump? piggyback and fpr??
or can you just build a turbo with the oil lines and coolant and thats it... well obviously intake piping and some sort of turbo manifold....

uh yes you do

check http://www.accoladesportparts.com

:)

Notice the and/or on that line. At low boost application you can use only 1 of them, but if you feel hardcore, you can use them all.

If you have to ask what you need you may want to get a kit. If one item is wrong or missing from your setup, you can damage your engine. Just think about it.

ROAD/RACE:apimp:

yes. pm me if you need help

Hey, I know this is a old thread. If im reading this correctly if i buy a turbo manifold for a 4g93 turbo engine it will bolt up to my oz 4g94. (My car was turboed previously, and the owner took half hte stuff off. THe oil return line is still hooked up, he left the boost gauge hooked up which is now just reading vaccum lol.Theres drill holes wehre the itnercooler was mounted etc. So i'm 95 percent sure it was turboed. So I'm trying to returbo it again. The engine run great.. it has good compression. I had one bad cyclinder pushin 180 then i realized that my engine was two notches off on timing. So im sure it has better compression then what it was reading in that 1 cyclidner otherwise with it two notches off on timing it was readin 220-230 in the rest of th cyclinders. What would i all need basically for 7-8 PSI(runnin safe for some extra power)Would i be able to get by with turbo, turbo manifold,bov and some piping. Or should i get a intercooler too while im at it. Thanks guys, Lenny

If i were you i would deffently run an intercooler just to keep the temp down as much as possible you can get them pretty cheap and if the holes are there it cant be to hard to hook up i would try and find who ever owned the car before you and see if they still have any of the parts maybe you can pick them up for cheap if nothing else he/she might be someone locally that can help you returbo it. does it have stock injectors and fuel pump that you knowof? those are things to look into as well, good luck with the build.

ok.. no this needs a correction on it..

YES the manifold will bolt up..
but more then likely NO it will not work because of the flange. most every turbo manifod i have seen for 4g93 motors have the turbo flange clocked about 20 degrees.. this makes the manifolds not work.

if u find something that u think will work. just post a picture. or do it the better route and get one built for you. it would be 10x better constructed. EPM(evopowermods) is finisihing my turbo kit this weekend.. and its all custom fabricated. 100x better quality out of it

plus 10

At anything over about 1psi, you need a piggyback. The only reason it may seem like the stock ECU compensates is this.... When an oxygen sensor reads a lean mixture (such as what will happen when bolting on a turbo for the first time with the stock ECU), the ECU compensates with STFT (short term fuel trim). The oxygen sensor doesnt switch between lean and rich, but stays at a lean reading (under 450mV). The STFT is there to get the oxygen sensor back to switching back and forth between lean and rich, and it should do this about 10 times per second. It adds fuel to get it back to stoikiometric, or 14.7:1 AFR. If the ECU sees that it must do this everytime the car is driven, the fuel trims are permanently changed. This is called the LTFT (long term fuel trim). This change only occurs after so many cycles and after the STFT gets too far away from the natural fuel curve. If running anything over maybe 3-4psi, you are maxing out your LTFT and making ZERO room for errors..... This means you better have your car running absolutely perfect, or else your car will start running very lean and wont be able to compensate for this. Be safe and buy a piggyback, at the least. The one from RRM is great for our cars, works just fine. Another problem is that our cars MAP sensor is used on a 5V referance, with about 500mV as light load conditions and 4.5V as a high load. This only works off of vacuum, not boost. So your car is relying 100% on the MAF sensor, which by itself isnt as accurate on a turbocharged car. The piggy from RRM has a built in MAP made for high and low pressures (low as "vacuum" and high as "boost"). Also, if running 7psi, its a good idea to run bigger injectors. If you are maxed out with your stock injectors, they will have to open much longer than usual to deliver the amount of fuel necessary to keep your car from going dangerously lean. This means that your injector may fire long before the intake valve opens and stays on after the valve closes. This allows the fuel you just atomized to recondense, making it harder to vaporize and thus pumping unburnable fuel into the combustion chamber. With a larger injector you can substitute time with volume, so you can now inject the same amount of fuel, but in less time. This will of course lead to better power and better emmisions. Hope this helps a bit.... If theres anything I myself have learned about turbocharging cars.... do it the right way the first time around, it is well worth it.:mitsu:

Oh, and just as a little "fun fact"... haha. The Greddy type RS works great with our cars, plus you can get it with the recirculation kit. Its not that expensive either. Plus, I have found that you don't HAVE to recirculate... mine runs absolutely great and im venting to atmosphere, sounds so much better. I was going to say, its fine to VTA, but that may not be the case with all BOV's, but the type RS works well. Hope this helps dude.:mitsu: