A-pillar for 2002-2003 LS
or buy EVO OEM Pilars for both drivers and passenger sides.... w/ tweeter insert
https://www.mitsubishiparts.com/oe_parts_catalog.html
https://www.mitsubishiparts.com/oe_parts_catalog.html
Metal dome tweeters are more likely to be harsh on the pillar. I'm not sure if Quart stuff is the same since they went bankrupt and were bought by RF but get silk domes if possible.
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Pillar mounted tweeters have certain higher frequencies amplified because of reflection off the glass and hard dash top. Speakers with metal domes usually have more output at the upper range of frequency response so this amplifies the effect. Highs can sound lispy, shrilland won't be balanced to the output of the mid. Think fingernails on a chalkboard.
I also do not recommend just adding tweeters to a set of mids. The passive crossover is designed for a set of speakers and matches the frequency response and level of a component set. It is a very important part of the performance and should be matched correctly to the system. This is why most "name brands" are only average, they put very little into the crossover design and don't optimize the crossover for each set. They build a single version for all component systems whether a 4,5.25 or 6.5" set.
I also do not recommend just adding tweeters to a set of mids. The passive crossover is designed for a set of speakers and matches the frequency response and level of a component set. It is a very important part of the performance and should be matched correctly to the system. This is why most "name brands" are only average, they put very little into the crossover design and don't optimize the crossover for each set. They build a single version for all component systems whether a 4,5.25 or 6.5" set.
No, a speaker doesn't know what amp or head unit is connected to it. There are key specs for each type of equipment. Most of the time marketing focuses on the easy specs that sound impressive but mean nothing.
In this case when you have a component system there is a woofer tweeter and crossover. When you look at what seperates the basic, mid priced and high end components it is usually the crossover. Cheap components have an inline tweeter network and the mid is full range. MidFi gives you a standard 2 way (usually for all models of speakers) and off the shelf cheap components. High end will go all out but beware of the companies that package a crossover well to capitalize on this but give midfi performance. All speakers have magnets, cones, and voice coils and there can be some minimal cost differences associated with each part but the crossover is where an electrolytic or polypropelene cap can be used with big cost differences. Some will have a coil and some will have an iron core hand wound flat wire inductor matched to the speakers perfectly instead of off the shelf for 1/10th the cost. Speakers are what you ultimately hear, most other parts of a system just ruin the music they are trying to play.
This is why I always put a great pair of speakers up front and usually nothing (or stock if I must) in the rear. Music is recorded in Stereo meaning 2 channels (Left and Right). There is no information that the rear provides except that rear speakers are usually larger and always better at low frequency response. In the end they still suck for bass so a dedicated sub is the best bet. 4 mediocre sounding speakers sound mediocre.
In this case when you have a component system there is a woofer tweeter and crossover. When you look at what seperates the basic, mid priced and high end components it is usually the crossover. Cheap components have an inline tweeter network and the mid is full range. MidFi gives you a standard 2 way (usually for all models of speakers) and off the shelf cheap components. High end will go all out but beware of the companies that package a crossover well to capitalize on this but give midfi performance. All speakers have magnets, cones, and voice coils and there can be some minimal cost differences associated with each part but the crossover is where an electrolytic or polypropelene cap can be used with big cost differences. Some will have a coil and some will have an iron core hand wound flat wire inductor matched to the speakers perfectly instead of off the shelf for 1/10th the cost. Speakers are what you ultimately hear, most other parts of a system just ruin the music they are trying to play.
This is why I always put a great pair of speakers up front and usually nothing (or stock if I must) in the rear. Music is recorded in Stereo meaning 2 channels (Left and Right). There is no information that the rear provides except that rear speakers are usually larger and always better at low frequency response. In the end they still suck for bass so a dedicated sub is the best bet. 4 mediocre sounding speakers sound mediocre.
In our cars rear speakers are a waste if you add a sub.
1. The sub does a better job at the low frequencies the rear speakers add to the system.
2. The Sub will likely go in a box in the trunk. This sound pressure will need to enter the cabin. The rear speaker holes will make this easier. less rattling and more sound for the driver.
3. The rear speakers will sound like crap with the sub playing. The pressure from a sub system will move the cones of hte rear speakers. If you disconnect the rear speakers and turn up a system with the subs playing you will hear the mechanical noises and distortion the rear speakers put out as they are being thrown back and forth at 20hz. You can add that noise to the music they are trying to play.
4. Rear "fill" is used in surround systems where effects are present in the rear only, not needed for music.
5. If a surround system is being used the rear speakers usually only have a 1/4 of the power and limited frequency response. You woudn't hear the difference between $10 and $1000 speakers in the car if the rest of the system was done properly.
CD player with >96db SN ratio, good front speakers, sub(s) and either (2) 2 channel amps or a 4 channel amp depending on the power needed for your sub system (I recommend Zapco amps)
1. The sub does a better job at the low frequencies the rear speakers add to the system.
2. The Sub will likely go in a box in the trunk. This sound pressure will need to enter the cabin. The rear speaker holes will make this easier. less rattling and more sound for the driver.
3. The rear speakers will sound like crap with the sub playing. The pressure from a sub system will move the cones of hte rear speakers. If you disconnect the rear speakers and turn up a system with the subs playing you will hear the mechanical noises and distortion the rear speakers put out as they are being thrown back and forth at 20hz. You can add that noise to the music they are trying to play.
4. Rear "fill" is used in surround systems where effects are present in the rear only, not needed for music.
5. If a surround system is being used the rear speakers usually only have a 1/4 of the power and limited frequency response. You woudn't hear the difference between $10 and $1000 speakers in the car if the rest of the system was done properly.
CD player with >96db SN ratio, good front speakers, sub(s) and either (2) 2 channel amps or a 4 channel amp depending on the power needed for your sub system (I recommend Zapco amps)
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ok so in a nut shell. i have mb quart components for the front, they come with the mids and tweets and a crossover, ill remove the back speakers and have a sub in the trunk, and with this set up i should have a decent sounding system?