question about power wires...
Niether makes more (or any) power, but I think the answer you're looking for is that you can run a hell of a lot more juice through the shorter, thicker wire.
A shorter or thicker wire will always be capable of handling more power than a longer wire of the same gauge, or a smaller wire of equal length.
Also, when you fuse that power wire (and you'd better), you determine the size of the fuse based on the length and gauge of the wire, not for what's connected to either end.
If you're choosing power wire for your amplifier, 4AWG is a good place to start. I wouldn't go any lower (lower = smaller = higher gauge number) unless you're not running a subwoofer.
http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm
Hope that helps.
*edit: If you're going to buy wire, this is the only place worth considering:
http://www.knukonceptz.com
A shorter or thicker wire will always be capable of handling more power than a longer wire of the same gauge, or a smaller wire of equal length.
Also, when you fuse that power wire (and you'd better), you determine the size of the fuse based on the length and gauge of the wire, not for what's connected to either end.
If you're choosing power wire for your amplifier, 4AWG is a good place to start. I wouldn't go any lower (lower = smaller = higher gauge number) unless you're not running a subwoofer.
http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm
Hope that helps.
*edit: If you're going to buy wire, this is the only place worth considering:
http://www.knukonceptz.com
Last edited by theCybe; Aug 21, 2007 at 05:44 PM.
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From: newport news virginia
Niether makes more (or any) power, but I think the answer you're looking for is that you can run a hell of a lot more juice through the shorter, thicker wire.
A shorter or thicker wire will always be capable of handling more power than a longer wire of the same gauge, or a smaller wire of equal length.
Also, when you fuse that power wire (and you'd better), you determine the size of the fuse based on the length and gauge of the wire, not for what's connected to either end.
If you're choosing power wire for your amplifier, 4AWG is a good place to start. I wouldn't go any lower (lower = smaller = higher gauge number) unless you're not running a subwoofer.
http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm
Hope that helps.
*edit: If you're going to buy wire, this is the only place worth considering:
http://www.knukonceptz.com
A shorter or thicker wire will always be capable of handling more power than a longer wire of the same gauge, or a smaller wire of equal length.
Also, when you fuse that power wire (and you'd better), you determine the size of the fuse based on the length and gauge of the wire, not for what's connected to either end.
If you're choosing power wire for your amplifier, 4AWG is a good place to start. I wouldn't go any lower (lower = smaller = higher gauge number) unless you're not running a subwoofer.
http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm
Hope that helps.
*edit: If you're going to buy wire, this is the only place worth considering:
http://www.knukonceptz.com
thanks a lot man this helped a lot
i messaged you something but this clears it all up.
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From: newport news virginia
2 AWG is an uncommon size also; I know wire is expensive.
Sounds to me like what you need is to connect your battery, now in the back, to the positive terminal clamp under the hood that used to connet to the battery up front.
Make a safe wire and fuse choice, it's worth the few extra bucks compared to the cost of a charred evo.
You don't need to run a cable for the negative pole of the battery up front -- you can just connect it to a place on the chassis with a nice low resistance (use your digital multimeter) and do the same up front in the engine bay with the pre-existing negative terminal clamp.
Sorry if that's a jumble
http://www.weldingsupply.com is a good deal for really big cable, but make sure you pick a high strand count. Current travels on the surface of a conductor, not inside it.
Sounds to me like what you need is to connect your battery, now in the back, to the positive terminal clamp under the hood that used to connet to the battery up front.
Make a safe wire and fuse choice, it's worth the few extra bucks compared to the cost of a charred evo.
You don't need to run a cable for the negative pole of the battery up front -- you can just connect it to a place on the chassis with a nice low resistance (use your digital multimeter) and do the same up front in the engine bay with the pre-existing negative terminal clamp.
Sorry if that's a jumble

http://www.weldingsupply.com is a good deal for really big cable, but make sure you pick a high strand count. Current travels on the surface of a conductor, not inside it.
2 AWG is an uncommon size also; I know wire is expensive.
Sounds to me like what you need is to connect your battery, now in the back, to the positive terminal clamp under the hood that used to connet to the battery up front.
Make a safe wire and fuse choice, it's worth the few extra bucks compared to the cost of a charred evo.
You don't need to run a cable for the negative pole of the battery up front -- you can just connect it to a place on the chassis with a nice low resistance (use your digital multimeter) and do the same up front in the engine bay with the pre-existing negative terminal clamp.
Sorry if that's a jumble
http://www.weldingsupply.com is a good deal for really big cable, but make sure you pick a high strand count. Current travels on the surface of a conductor, not inside it.
Sounds to me like what you need is to connect your battery, now in the back, to the positive terminal clamp under the hood that used to connet to the battery up front.
Make a safe wire and fuse choice, it's worth the few extra bucks compared to the cost of a charred evo.
You don't need to run a cable for the negative pole of the battery up front -- you can just connect it to a place on the chassis with a nice low resistance (use your digital multimeter) and do the same up front in the engine bay with the pre-existing negative terminal clamp.
Sorry if that's a jumble

http://www.weldingsupply.com is a good deal for really big cable, but make sure you pick a high strand count. Current travels on the surface of a conductor, not inside it.

I ran multiple runs of 4/0 through my car
Trending Topics
Here are some pics, Custel 
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=189252
Hey, original poster -- don't feel too bad about the price of wire. Check out the Kicker van:

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=189252
Hey, original poster -- don't feel too bad about the price of wire. Check out the Kicker van:
Last edited by theCybe; Aug 21, 2007 at 06:52 PM.
Here are some pics, Custel 
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=189252
Hey, original poster -- don't feel too bad about the price of wire. Check this kid out:


http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=189252
Hey, original poster -- don't feel too bad about the price of wire. Check this kid out:

I <3 Kicker Wire, I miss getting team pricing
lol
Thread Starter
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iTrader: (11)
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: newport news virginia
Here are some pics, Custel 
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=189252
Hey, original poster -- don't feel too bad about the price of wire. Check this kid out:


http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=189252
Hey, original poster -- don't feel too bad about the price of wire. Check this kid out:

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