EvolutionM - Mitsubishi Lancer and Lancer Evolution Community

EvolutionM - Mitsubishi Lancer and Lancer Evolution Community (https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/)
-   Lancer Audio and Security (All models) (https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/lancer-audio-security-all-models-51/)
-   -   System Won't work (https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/lancer-audio-security-all-models/272974-system-wont-work.html)

Evo_Jr May 24, 2007 06:56 PM

System Won't work
 
So this is the problem:

My system won't hit. AMP comes on, CAP shows good voltage, all wiring looks good, but the subs won't hit!

It started right when the possitive cable on the battery made contact with metal, and sparked.

Thats when the system stopped working. I thought it would be the fuse on the AMP, so I changed it (old one was still good).

But it still won't work. Can anybody think what could the problem be? Power cable got a shortage, IDK!

920W Kenwood AMP
(2) 12' Sony Xplods
2.0 Farad CAP
Not sure of wiring
ALL a little over a year old

Dennis F May 24, 2007 07:23 PM

Is the protection light on the amp lit?

Never Satisfied May 24, 2007 11:17 PM

Sounds like you probably cooked the board inside the amp. I have seen it before at work that people short stuff out and then it doesn't ever work again, but the light still comes on as if it were fine.

Evo_Jr May 25, 2007 11:19 AM

I dont think it has a protection light.

The power light comes on, the fan comes on, like a normal day.

Doesn't smell any different and I hear that to be able to tell, you might smell something burning. But NO smoke, or smell.

Never Satisfied May 25, 2007 10:00 PM

Not always. Some of the smaller internal components won't smoke or smell, but will change the way things work.

How old it is?

Never Satisfied May 25, 2007 10:01 PM

One more quick thought, might be worth a try. Your RCA cables may have gone bad. Try changing them out if you have any extras.

Evo_Jr May 26, 2007 12:07 AM

Im hoping they are the cables. Because I'm thinking if the shortage could of damaged the AMP, would it been able to blow the fuse as well?
I'm trying the cables first, then swapping out the amps with a friends. Hopefully is just a messed up cable.

The AMP was bought new from Best Buy a little over a year ago.

Dennis F May 26, 2007 03:55 AM

Another thing you can check, may not even apply but here goes,

When you disconnected your battery, the radio reset itself. Does your radio have sub outputs? Ifso, maybe you need to turn them back on.

sykou May 26, 2007 04:21 AM

Check inline power wire fuse
Check Amp fuse
Check Radio Fuse(located under the steering column check your manual)
Check Fuse for accessory input you tapped from
Disconnect all wires from amp and check for continuity with a multimeter(from power to ground, then from the signal(REM) wire to ground - should read 12 or more.
If voltage reads under 12 or doesn't read at all then check the ground to assure it is making good connection also do the same to the power wire...
Also your wiring order should be like this....
Power Wire(+) to Capacitor Pos(+), Vehicle Ground(-) to Capacitor Neg(-),
Capacitor Pos(+) to Amp Pos(+), Amp Ground(-) to Vehicle Ground(-), Signal Wire(Tapped from Accessory 12V) to AMP Signal input(+)...

Evo_Jr May 26, 2007 09:01 AM


Originally Posted by Dennis F (Post 4370066)
Another thing you can check, may not even apply but here goes,

When you disconnected your battery, the radio reset itself. Does your radio have sub outputs? Ifso, maybe you need to turn them back on.

It does, but it was not connected to the radio. It was wired straight "as the back speakers"

Evo_Jr May 26, 2007 09:06 AM


Originally Posted by sykou (Post 4370100)
Check inline power wire fuse
Check Amp fuse
Check Radio Fuse(located under the steering column check your manual)
Check Fuse for accessory input you tapped from
Disconnect all wires from amp and check for continuity with a multimeter(from power to ground, then from the signal(REM) wire to ground - should read 12 or more.
If voltage reads under 12 or doesn't read at all then check the ground to assure it is making good connection also do the same to the power wire...
Also your wiring order should be like this....
Power Wire(+) to Capacitor Pos(+), Vehicle Ground(-) to Capacitor Neg(-),
Capacitor Pos(+) to Amp Pos(+), Amp Ground(-) to Vehicle Ground(-), Signal Wire(Tapped from Accessory 12V) to AMP Signal input(+)...

-Done. It was good, but I still replaced it
-Radio works fine, but will still check it out
-Will do{thumbup}
-The CAP read 13.X. SO it was getting power to the CAP. I will still check the cables to the AMP
-WAIT, VEHICLE GROUND? I DO NOT SEE ANYTHING GOING AS GROUND. JUST STRAIGHT FROM BATTERY, TO CAP, TO AMP.

-I am hoping to do this list today. That's if the weather gets better over here. Thank you for the help, and will let you guys know!

Newfoundlancer May 26, 2007 12:59 PM

Lol... gotta be grounded!

Evo_Jr May 26, 2007 01:08 PM


Originally Posted by Newfoundlancer (Post 4370947)
Lol... gotta be grounded!

Damn. Might as well re-wired the whole thing!

The only problem is, I have no patients, and I suck at electric stuff. My only enemy is black tape lol

sykou May 26, 2007 03:53 PM

Is the amp mounted to the back of your seat? If so you can run the wire under the seat and to one of the bolts underneath. Just remove the bolt, sand the surface till you see bare metal, then connect the wire using a spade terminal. Try not to make it longer than 3 feet but you can as i have in the past and have had no ill effects...

Evo_Jr May 27, 2007 04:34 PM


Originally Posted by sykou (Post 4371334)
Is the amp mounted to the back of your seat? If so you can run the wire under the seat and to one of the bolts underneath. Just remove the bolt, sand the surface till you see bare metal, then connect the wire using a spade terminal. Try not to make it longer than 3 feet but you can as i have in the past and have had no ill effects...

It is, and thank you for that.

What is the ground on the AMP?


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 03:23 PM.


© 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands