CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

your fuel maps are the way they are, assuming you have a stock MAF, because load is determined by airflow, so if your load value is out, the ECU will be running the wrong part of the fuel map, under a given set of conditions. without a wideband, you're playing with fire...

dragunbayne

Yeah, that's why I'm stopping until I get mine. Then I will scale my MAF and continue from there. I will be ordering the wideband on Friday. Until then, my load numbers are definitely off because I'm hitting over 100 and I will not be going WOT and I will not be messing with the tune.

dragunbayne

It's showing up today! It will be installed ASAP. I'm looking forward to being able to continue.

dragunbayne

OK guys. I've had it in for a few days now. I've made some big improvements thanks to it. The heavy hesitation I was getting was a fuel cut off. I finally took the advice I've seen here on the forums and took off the lower pipe on my intake and hooked the filter straight to the maf adapter. This has allowed me to get a pretty nice idle and I'm getting steady readings from the WB. I've been running the car in open loop to scale the maf a bit which has helped a lot. The major issues I'm having: What do I need to do to stop going over 100 load? Also, I am going super rich under heavy throttle. I'm talking I can hit 9s, under partial throttle it a tad rich but really pretty good. Looking for more of your guidance! As always, thanks for your time and knowledge.

dragunbayne

I wasn't thinking and I switched to 93 octane and the car is using the high octane maps. Now I've got it so it's not going so rich. Still going over rich, but much better. I've switched it back to closed loop since I've got it close and it's pretty smooth. I think my front O2 sensor may be bad though. The fuel trims are lean according to the WB, so I'm pretty sure the front O2 is reading wrong. I'm still going over over 100 load, I know it has to do with the MAF but I'm not sure if my value need to go up or down to correct it.

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

all of those things sound to me like a MAF issue...the MAF is telling the ECU it's getting more air than it ereally is, so it's adding more fuel...or youy just need to remove some fuel....do you have fuel maps specific to boost pressure vs rpm?

dragunbayne

I was thinking the MAF scaling is probably still a little high. My fuel maps are close to right now, once I thought to start working off the high octane maps. My WOT is no longer dipping to 9s since using the high octane map. It's only going maybe low 11s. Naturally it has stopped smoking, apparently dipping into the 9s can do that. My fuel trims seem to be calling for less fuel even though it is lean in closed loop. I haven't put on many miles yet, so I'm waiting to see if it sorts itself out. The MAF wouldn't have a lot to do with closed loop trims would it? Isn't that all on the front O2 trying to reach 14.7?

EDIT: Just so I'm clear on my last statement, I know the MAF affects fueling. However, the trims should not call for less fuel if it's already below 14.7.

jakermeister

iTrader: (11)

The MAF has everything to do with closed loop. Closed loop uses the front o2 sensor to keep the car stoich (14.7). Open loop uses your info on the ecu (maps, scalings, etc.). I think your fuel issue has to do with your MAF. Also, your load will continue to be over 100 when using the 501 MAF. Its able to hit a higher load because the car is taking in more air. Best thing to do is get the MAF dialed in. Log your "maf hz", "afr map", "wideband", "rpm", & "load" to help scale your MAF. I think I would recommend using the 501 scaling but just use the "compensation" to get your readings closer to the "afr map". Its going to take a while but its worth it.

Remember raising the compensation richens the AFR and lowering compensation leans it out.

dragunbayne

I'm continuing to make small adjustments to get everything where it should be. Here's my thought on using the 501 scaling. Those numbers come from an engine with more displacement and a bigger throttle body, so shouldn't I scale the whole thing down to get the fueling right and to also cap it at 100 load? Not arguing, just want to sort it out in my head.

jakermeister

iTrader: (11)

I would stick with the scaling that mitsu has put in place. You may not be hitting the upper scalings of the MAF but for cruising and some stop and go driving i would think that the vehicles pretty much act the same. I would use the how to I posted earlier. Even in that thread he reverts back to the original scaling for the MAF he's using once he's done. With the 501 MAF the car is getting more air than the regular lancer MAF, so you will be getting higher loads and it will be the norm now. You should adjust your maps so you can tune the new load area.

dragunbayne

Sounds like a plan. I just adjusted the scaling to Mitsus numbers for the 501 and I will continue to adjust the smoothing table as needed. The WB is really making things much easier and quicker! Just getting rid of the flat spot and being able to adjust the fuel table safely has made a huge difference. I'll continue to log and work on this and get back to you soon.

dragunbayne

I set my idle smoothing in open loop and got the afr to 14.5. Once switching back to closed loop I'm still getting very lean readings. I did realize I hadn't adjusted my idle, the BISS was open too much so I'm hoping that extra air was leaning it out. I will see how that goes tomorrow. My WOT fueling is coming along very well! On my last pull it only dipped to 12.5. There is no knock and it pulls really well in open loop.

jakermeister

iTrader: (11)

Sounds good. When I switched to the evo maf I got a lean idle too. I think I got a bad maf though. My car will not drive in closed loop. Its not getting enough fuel for some reason while in closed loop. My injector latencies are not changing as well. I can go really high or really low and no noticeable change. I think its my maf though. I'm just running in open loop. If you have any questions let us know.

dragunbayne

I am having 0 luck in closed loop. I'm pretty sure I can nearly 0 the trims, but it will still be lean. VERY lean in fact. Should I just tune for open loop? My WB does have a simulated O2 output, should I use that? The car runs fairly well, except if you get on the throttle to a point where it leans out from closed loop and doesn't hit open loop. What if I set the values low enough that basically all acceleration is open loop but cruise and idle are closed? Will running it that lean harm anything?

jakermeister

iTrader: (11)

I don't think there's a problem running lean. I've been running 17's and 18's since I boosted. My EGTs arent that much higher either. I tuned for a 15-15.5ish AFR when I'm cruising. I like to run a little leaner to save gas. Stoich (14.7 afr) is actually hotter. It burns better which is why the EPA likes cars to run 14.7. I say just tune your car for open loop. It takes a while but is worth it. Like Crans said you could probably push up to a 13 AFR since you're not boosted. Getting a EGT gauge might be best though.