I'm looking to get help with a tune and need the xml for an 08 lancer es 5speed. I'm mainly looking to raise the idle up to about 850 to smooth out with the rrm motor mounts and the lag from taking off on his and such with the ac on which will be defrost here in the winter coming either way the compressor bogs it down. I have a tactrix 2.0 cable coming will be downloading ecuflash. Any help will be much appreciated.

 

I guess no one really resounds on here anymore. Tried rallinspired.com can't get a response to get to the code for evoscan. All I'm trying to do is raise the idle up and get a little more power.

 

Post your ROM maybe I can help.

 

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/la...ng-thread.html Here is a lot of info to get you started!

 

I've looked into this. I'm waiting on my evoscan code from rallinspired. I've scheduled an etuning for it too. My car is at the tint shop getting some repairs done is why I haven't posted my rom yet. I should have it up tonight thank you for the link I had read past already before even posting. I guess I'm just anxious and irritated with this lag.

 

I hope I did this right still new it. Still waiting on my serial code for evoscan too so I can't even use it yet.

 

Donkeyc See attached basic def including plenty of errors to keep you honest.... better than starting with nothing right?
Not sure why you want help when you are getting a commercial tune anyhow.....

 

well I wasn't going to at first was just going to try and figure out how to bring the idle up about 100rpm. Then I realized I don't have the necessary info to make that kind of change. Then I talked to a local tuner, but he didn't have the definitions so I thought I would try and get them. If nothing else to learn and compare so I can at least view the maps. I'm considering on doing a low key turbo setup next year for the extra power on a dd and getting an evo ix or x as a weekend toy. Either way I'm just trying to get a starting point. Thank you for the help.

 

Donkeyc There is already an idle step up when the A/C is on which is usually around 100rpm. This is controlled by a specific map that is separate to the idle rpm setting maps. No, it is not in that definition.....
I would be more inclined to fix the reason why you are wanting to do this in the first place rather than trying to apply a software fix to a hardware problem.

 

I've tried to fix this issue and find the source of the drop after letting off the gas and when the a/c kicks off it goes down a little too low where it vibrates then goes back up to normal idle. I've searched all over with no luck. Checked all the vacuums cleaned everything can't seem to figure this out. Hoping raising the idle a little will help get rid of this. Also eliminate the lag when taking off in general. It's embarrassing making it seem like I don't know how to drive a manual. When the idle is up like when the engine is not warmed up completely where the idle
is up a little more there is no issue only after warming up. I'm hoping the tunning will help with this and maybe even figure out the problem.

 

Donkeyc What you describe is a completely different problem and is very common on all manual Lancers. It's root cause is Mitsi cheap-skating on the throttlebody and not using a stepper motor for reliable positioning of the throttle. The solution is complex, starting with ensuring the throttle plate is not gunked up with oily carbon, ensuring the throttle stop screw is correctly set to just keep the throttle plate from fully closing, ensuring the PCV valve is not sticking open, ensuring the engine is in good condition (not down on compression, not burning oil, not misfiring etc.). Only then do you turn to looking at the ROM and logging the correct parameters will identify why the dip occurs.

It worries me when the conversation starts off: "Hey I've got a 2008 Lancer that I want to make go real fast"...... usually the end of the story is it is a $200 junkyard crapper on its last legs. Not having a go at you Donkeyc, just get tired of people who think that a flash tune can make their worn out engine good again as if by magic. The first requirement is always to have an engine in way better than average condition because you are about to put extra strain on it and flog the *** off it when it gets a bit more inspirational.

 

I've already gone over these things believe obviously the tb checking it. The compression is good. Not burning oil or leaking. I've been over this stuff like I said this isn't just me trying to go fast or dig it. I take care of my stuff and try to keep it in good running order. I've replaced allot already just getting to work out the kinks. I stated with the tb thinking it might be the tps, but everything is within range. That's why I'm trying to hunt down the issue this way. I've already gone through everything I can think of. This has been an issue since the car was bone stock. I've added poly mounts new clutch, Takeda sri, rrm piggyback which will be coming off when I tune it obviously, also added a 5 point ground kit. . I've tried to research and work on any possible fixes for this issue with no luck. The compression is good not running rich or lean. With the mounts it makes tsar vibration really irritating. I used to have an 04 ralliart with a similar issue and fixed it with a a good run through cleaning stuff and a tuneup, but whatever this is in just trying to upgrade while fixing a problem.

 

O.K, now the finer details are coming to light.....
Takeda SRI will lean the crap out of the AFRs due to the bigger MAF tube. It will misreport airflows to the idle system which will have a hernia. It is not something anyone should install without first installing a wideband O2 kit and knowing how to log and flash tune.
So the 4B11 airbox MAF tube is 58mm at the sensor. Measure the I.D of the Takeda tube and work out the ratio of cross-sectional areas (not diameters) to see how much the MAF readings will be out by. You need to multiply the MAF cal map values by this ratio to get the MAF sensor close to correct again.... and **** off the rrm piggyback!
Bigger MAF tubes reduce the accuracy of airflow measurement - particularly at low airflows like at idle so the compromise to get high airflows at WOT, hi rpms is to accept poorer engine control at lo throttle, lo rpms.

 

I plan on doing the wideband kit, this was my daily driver so I got the piggyback with crank pulley because my crank seal was leaking and the pulley looked pretty worn figure upgrade. This is my dd so I was just looking for a little extra power without having to go all out, but it seems no matter what I do with this car I have to dig deep to figure out the issue like you said Mitsubishi cheaping out. I had the Fosgate sound system and steering wheel control, but no Bluetooth module... back to this issue is been going on before I installed anything. The intake actually seemed to help and i upgraded because I had a rip in the oem intake house and the box was cracked at the bottom. I had k and n drop in filter for it, but I just decided to upgrade.

 

hey bro I know this might sound crazy but mine was doin that same thing last summer and all it needed was a new battery. I even had a new battery in there but the coil or whatever it is inside was messed so it was really messing with the car. Switched it out and the car runs like the wind now