Installing Upgraded Fuel Rail - 4G94
Oct 16, 2004, 12:48 AM
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Installing Upgraded Fuel Rail - 4G94
These are the steps I used to install the Upgraded Fuel Rail from Boe. With some pics.
Time: Roughly 30 minutes.
Difficulty: 3/10
Tools needed:
1 - socket wrench thingie
1 - 10mm socket
1 - 12mm socket
1/2 socket extensions
1. Turn car off, Pop the hood and unplug the negative battery terminal link (-)
2. Locate the fuel rail. Its inbetween the intake manifold and block. It looks just like the new one.
3. Remove the right (drivers side) ignition coil pack (spark plug thing) by removing the two bolts on top (12mm) and stick it aside.
4. If you have an aftermarket intake, it's a good time to move it higher to allow wrenching room.
5. On the right side, locate the fuel supply line. Its in the end of the fuel rail. Remove the two bolts (10mm) holding it in (you may need the socket
extensions) and set aside.
6. On the left side of the fuel rail, locate the fuel regulator and remove the two bolts (10mm).
7. Reach down and unclip the plugs on the fuel injectors (the right one is a pain if the butt, this is why I removed the coil).
8. Remove the two main bolts holding the fuel rail in place (12mm). Pull them out and set aside.
9. Pull the fuel rail out gently and place on a clean flat place.
10. Make sure the black spacers under those 12mm bolts didn't fall out. May want to set them aside.
11. Remove the injectors out of the old fuel rail by pulling them out (may haveta yank hard).
12. Put injectors in the new fuel rail. These can be tough to get in. May want to use a little oil on the o-ring to help them go in.
13. Put black spacers back in place.
14. Slide new fuel rail back into place. Make sure the injectors line up into the intake manifold holes.
15. Re-install the two main bolts holding the fuel rail in place (12mm).
16. Re-clip the injector clips.
17. Locate the fuel supply line (right side) and stick it back in. Put those bolts in and tighten.
18. Locate the fuel regulator (left side) and stick it back in. Put those bolts in and tighten.
19. Locate the removed ignition coil, stick back in place. Put those bolts in and tighten.
20. Lower your intake, and tighten into place.
21. Take car for test drive.
NOTE: Steps 3 + 4 are not "needed" but I found it easier to do these steps. Also, do not over tighten bolts, as threads on the intake manifold can strip
easily.
Time: Roughly 30 minutes.
Difficulty: 3/10
Tools needed:
1 - socket wrench thingie
1 - 10mm socket
1 - 12mm socket
1/2 socket extensions
1. Turn car off, Pop the hood and unplug the negative battery terminal link (-)
2. Locate the fuel rail. Its inbetween the intake manifold and block. It looks just like the new one.
3. Remove the right (drivers side) ignition coil pack (spark plug thing) by removing the two bolts on top (12mm) and stick it aside.
4. If you have an aftermarket intake, it's a good time to move it higher to allow wrenching room.
5. On the right side, locate the fuel supply line. Its in the end of the fuel rail. Remove the two bolts (10mm) holding it in (you may need the socket
extensions) and set aside.
6. On the left side of the fuel rail, locate the fuel regulator and remove the two bolts (10mm).
7. Reach down and unclip the plugs on the fuel injectors (the right one is a pain if the butt, this is why I removed the coil).
8. Remove the two main bolts holding the fuel rail in place (12mm). Pull them out and set aside.
9. Pull the fuel rail out gently and place on a clean flat place.
10. Make sure the black spacers under those 12mm bolts didn't fall out. May want to set them aside.
11. Remove the injectors out of the old fuel rail by pulling them out (may haveta yank hard).
12. Put injectors in the new fuel rail. These can be tough to get in. May want to use a little oil on the o-ring to help them go in.
13. Put black spacers back in place.
14. Slide new fuel rail back into place. Make sure the injectors line up into the intake manifold holes.
15. Re-install the two main bolts holding the fuel rail in place (12mm).
16. Re-clip the injector clips.
17. Locate the fuel supply line (right side) and stick it back in. Put those bolts in and tighten.
18. Locate the fuel regulator (left side) and stick it back in. Put those bolts in and tighten.
19. Locate the removed ignition coil, stick back in place. Put those bolts in and tighten.
20. Lower your intake, and tighten into place.
21. Take car for test drive.
NOTE: Steps 3 + 4 are not "needed" but I found it easier to do these steps. Also, do not over tighten bolts, as threads on the intake manifold can strip
easily.
Last edited by digdat; Feb 7, 2005 at 05:39 PM.
Oct 16, 2004, 08:24 AM
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yeah, im N/A and basically u get no hesitation when u accelerate at higher speeds because there is the more fuel there behind the injectors. It helped get up the rpm's faster. Im sure F/I feels it alot more.
Good job on the write up, but also wanna note that u should have a rag handy when your taking the FPR off the left side, or the line on the right side, keep a rag under neath it when u pull it out, because fuel WILL come out
. it can get a bit messy if u arent prepared.
Good job on the write up, but also wanna note that u should have a rag handy when your taking the FPR off the left side, or the line on the right side, keep a rag under neath it when u pull it out, because fuel WILL come out
. it can get a bit messy if u arent prepared.
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Oct 16, 2004, 02:41 PM
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according to the mitsu manual, from what i can gather you can lift up the back seat, unplug the fuel pump, then turn on your engine and let it die naturally from lack of fuel, then there will be no leaks or anything when your doing fuel work. just a thought
