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**How to change your oil**

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Old Nov 6, 2006, 03:25 PM
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**How to change your oil**

I didn't see a post up of a how-to-change-your-oil for US Lancer... so here it goes...

Here is my engine that we are changing the oil on


Here are the products that you will need: Mobil 1 Extended Performance Fully Synthetic Oil, K&N Oil filter, something to drain the oil into, a car jack and some jack stands (I like to use a ply-wood board to lay on and to keep the oil that doesn't make it into the pan from draining on my driveway).
After you put the car up on jacks, make sure to take off the oil cap to release the pressure.


This is the drain plug that is going to be removed to drain the oil


Now if you are like me, the drain plug wasn't real easy to just twist right out... I need to use a little more force


This is sometimes the only way to get a tough plug off... here is a comparison of the old plug and the new plug


Now the oil is finished draining out of your oil pan, you can unscrew the old oil filter


After taking out the drain plug and oil filter you will need to replace them with your new drain plug and K&N oil filter


Now pour your oil in the engine


Finally, put your oil cap back on, lower your car and you should be ready to roll for the next 15,000 miles!
Old Nov 6, 2006, 04:44 PM
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lol,
Old Nov 6, 2006, 04:46 PM
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hey that turbo kit looks familiar! heheh that was the one i made!
Old Nov 6, 2006, 04:54 PM
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do you have problems with vta?
Old Nov 6, 2006, 05:55 PM
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What is the size of you new plug??
Old Nov 6, 2006, 06:49 PM
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RTV on your pan? you got leaks?

i wouldn't run the car for 15k between oil changes... a downside of those micro paper filters is that they can get clogged much quicker since the paper is so fine and the filter will go into bypass quicker.

you also need some power steering fluid.

grey fox: the plug is a 14mm.
Old Nov 6, 2006, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by lancerman360
do you have problems with vta?
when i first got the car, i did have problems when i would blow it off and then not hit the gas, i would stall out bc of being too rich, but now, since i had my SAFC tuned a bit more, i don't fall into that problem as often, but occasionally it happens.


Originally Posted by atilla
RTV on your pan? you got leaks?

i wouldn't run the car for 15k between oil changes... a downside of those micro paper filters is that they can get clogged much quicker since the paper is so fine and the filter will go into bypass quicker.
oh yeah, i am planning on changing it before 15k, but just following the bottle, you can get 15k... as far as RTV not too sure what that is... can you elaborate?
Old Nov 6, 2006, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by zlancer
hey that turbo kit looks familiar! heheh that was the one i made!
Then maybe you can explain this debauchery...
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=226625
What the HELL were you doing?!
Old Nov 6, 2006, 10:05 PM
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Instead of using jacks you could use ramps.
Old Nov 7, 2006, 04:10 AM
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the red stuff looks just like the RTV silicone we put on cars when the gasket that is supposed to be somewhere gets FGFU.
Old Nov 7, 2006, 05:46 AM
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Originally Posted by atilla
the red stuff looks just like the RTV silicone we put on cars when the gasket that is supposed to be somewhere gets FGFU.
I had never heard of that before... I have not had any issues with leaking from the pan. I was leaking a little oil from the connection of the steel braided hose from the turbo to the oilpan, but tightened that down and it was fine
Old Nov 7, 2006, 08:18 AM
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WoW
Old Nov 9, 2006, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by wickdaddy
I had never heard of that before... I have not had any issues with leaking from the pan.
He kinda answered it himself. Previous owner probably didn't bother to replace the gasket and used RTV sealant instead.
Old Nov 9, 2006, 08:11 PM
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i'd definitely check to see if that is the case... sure you can make a gasket with RTV, but it's not a real deal gasket when all is said and done.
Old Mar 14, 2007, 04:42 PM
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how many quarts do you guys usually put in your lancer?


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