SeRious08

How-To paint trim pieces and fiberglass professionally

This is more of a working how to as I don’t have the pics right now. This is typed out of memory and a process that I have used with success many times. I promise, the next time I spray something I will attach the pics to this write up.

PARTS LIST:
1. HVLP spray gun with 1.8mm tip for primer and 1.4mm tip for paint/clear
2. Respirator mask
3. Air compressor
4. Water trap for air compressor
5. Sandpaper (220, 400, 600 grits)
6. Klean Strip Auto Prep solvent or acetone
7. Lint-free paper cloths
8. Tacky cloth
9. Clear quart cups
10. Paint funnel filter
11. Paint mix sticks
12. Latex gloves
13. Urethane Primer with hardner
14. Base coat paint with reducer
15. Clear coat with hardner and reducer

HVLP spray gun: This is a High Volume Low Pressure gun that sprays a lot of paint with low pressure. These are fairly inexpensive and can be found on eBay or Harbor Freight.

Respirator mask: A good respirator is a necessity and extremely important. Automotive fumes are very harmful.

Air compressor: You will need a decent air compressor for painting and other stuff. I recommend at least a 4 hp 25 gal compressor. They can be picked up new for under $300.

The first step is prep. A good prep is the key to an awesome paint job. Since this is more about actually painting I’ll leave out a lot of the prepping prior to spraying the primer. For plastics like the trim panels, take 600 grit sandpaper and scuff up the entire piece. With fiberglass it should already be sanded smooth anyways.

Next, apply 2-3 coats of adhesion promoter. This helps the primer stick to the surface of the piece. Dupli-Color makes it in a spray can. This can be bought at any automotive supply store.

http://www.duplicolor.com/products/adhesion.html

Next, you need to mix up your urethane primer and hardner. I prefer urethane primer due to the thickness. This allows it to cover/fill scratches. There are several places to purchase it from. Just goggle it. A favorite store of mine is local but for on-line purchases I go here.

http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/kspureprime.aspx

I have had success with this Kustom brand. It calls for a 3:1 mix ratio with the hardner. Every brand is different, so PLEASE read the directions on the cans. In this case for example if I was to need/want ¾ a cup of primer, I would need ¼ a cup of hardner. This is easily accomplished by using the clear quart measuring cups.

Be sure to mix it thoroughly with a paint stick. Then pour it into the spray gun cup. Make sure you have the 1.8mm nozzle on as well.

From here, you will want to apply 3 wet coats. Wait 15 minutes between each coat. Once all 3 coats are on you need to wait at least 3 hours for drying time.

Next, its time to get dirty. After 3 or more hours have passed its time for the sanding. I personally prefer hand sanding because I can “feel” the piece for high/low areas. Start with 220 grit sandpaper and lightly sand it. Follow it with 400 and then 600 grits. The idea here is to make sure there are no shiny spots remaining in the primer. If there is, these are low spots that need to be filled with body filler or sanded out.

Next, you need to thoroughly clean the entire piece. First, you will want to blow off all the dust. Good thing you have an air compressor!! After that has been done, grab the Klean Stripe Auto Prep or acetone and the lint-free cloths. Spray down the entire thing with the Auto Prep and wipe it dry. I usually do this twice to make sure its free of dust and oils on the surface.

From this point on you DO NOT want to touch the piece with your bare hands. The oils in your skin can contaminate it. So get the latex gloves and put them on.

Grab the tack cloth and wipe down the entire piece. Fold it to a clean section and wipe it down again. Now you are ready to paint.

Grab your basecoat/color coat and the reducer. For this section I will use House of Kolor as an example. You can pretty much use any brand as long as you read the mixing direction. You can order HOK here:

http://www.tcpglobal.com/hokpaint/

Mix your base coat and reducer in a clear quart cup with a mixing stick. HOK called for a 2:1 mix ratio. For example, 2 cups of paint and 1 cup of reducer. Grab your spray gun paint holder and make sure its free of dirt. Place a funnel filter (made of paper) into it and pour your freashly mixed paint/reducer into it.

Next, you will want to adjust the gun pressure to atomize the paint with the 1.4mm nozzle tip. On average this is around 15 psi. You will want to start out by spraying the hard to reach areas and edges. Also make sure you are not too close to the piece. The gun should be approx. 12 inches from it when spraying. Also, begin the spray before the piece, sweep all the way across stopping off the piece. In other words, begin before the piece and stop after the piece.

Next, paint the larger sections by spraying in even overlapping strokes. You will want to spray 3 coats waiting 10-15 minutes between each one. While its drying, go ahead and clean the gun.

Now you are ready for the clear coat. Again, you can use which ever brand you want. Many will argue that sticking with one paint/clear is the best, I have found this for the most part untrue. As long as you are using quality stuff and not cheap crap. A decent clear can be found here.

http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/kspclear.aspx

Many clears don’t call for any reducer though it is highly recommend to make it flow easier. Kustom’s clear is a 4:1:1/2 mixing ratio. That’s 4 parts clear, 1 part hardner, ½ part reducer. 4 oz clear, 1 oz hardner, ½ oz reducer. Mix it thoroughly with a paint stick and pour into the gun through a filter funnel.

Spray the clear coat using the same technique as the base coat (even overlapping strokes). Spray just enough to get a shine, but not so much that it runs/drips. Go ahead and spray 3-4 coats on with 10-15 minutes of drying time between each coat.

Once it is dry, look at it closely. If you notice any blurriness/waviness, you have orange peel. Don’t fret, this is actually common. If you can live with it fine, but there are ways to fix it and make your piece look even better.

For this process you will need:
1. Electric drill (not cordless)
2. Rubbing Compound
3. Foam buffing pads
4. 2000 grit sandpaper
5. Spray adhesive glue
6. Scissors
7. Small container with warm water and a few drops of dishwashing soap
8. Polishing cloth
9. Meguire’s Final Inspection or similar product
10. Meguire’s Swirl Remover or similar product
11. Foam polishing pad

Grab your rubbing compound (3M Perfect-It 3000 is awesome). It can be found here:

http://www.tcpglobal.com/3m/3m450-6.aspx

Also grab your foam buffing pads. I highly recommend using Meguire’s Soft Buff Cutting Pad (Part # W7006). It can be found here:

http://www.tcpglobal.com/detailsupplydepot/dsd8.aspx

I recommend it due to it having a Velcro backing that can attach to the backing plate for a drill. Grab you drill and attach it all together.

Now get your 2000 grit sandpaper out. Spray the backs of 2 pieces with the spray glue and stick them together. Next round the corner off with the scissors. You don’t want sharp corners/edges nicking the paint. Once that’s done, throw them into the water/soap mixture for a few minutes.

Now grab the sandpaper from the water and begin to LIGHTLY sand the piece. You will want to use smooth even strokes. Also dip the sandpaper into the water/soap to clean it and lubricate it. Also, ONLY sand the flat sections. You don’t have to sand the corners or sharp edges. A good rule is that if you can’t reach it with a buffer, then don’t sand it.

After a few minutes of sanding stop and rinse the piece. Make sure that (on the flat surfaces) there are no shiny areas. If there are, continue with the wet sanding.

You are now ready for the buffing. So grab the drill with buffing pad attached and place a small amount (quarter size) of rubbing compound on it. Start buffing the piece with a light to medium pressure. The key here is to constantly move the buffer to keep from burning the paint. You will want to work small sections at a time. Do this until the rubbing compound starts to dry and disappear. Complete the entire piece.

Now grab your polishing cloth and Meguire’s Final Inspection. Found here:

http://www.tcpglobal.com/detailsuppl...up=&SearchCat=

Wipe the piece down cleaning the rubbing compound off. You might notice some very very light scratches still. DO NOT WORRY ABOUT THE SWIRL MARKS. Only look for scratches from sanding. If you do, repeat the process above with the rubbing compound and drill.

You should by now have a smooth, shiny piece. Its now time to apply the swirl remover. I like using Meguire’s which is found here:

http://www.tcpglobal.com/detailsuppl...No=MIR%20M0916

You will also need a decent foam polishing pad. You can find it here:

http://www.tcpglobal.com/detailsupplydepot/dsd9.aspx

If you wee to buy that 6.5 kit, you get everything you need to include all pads and drill plate.

Apply it in the same manner as the rubbing compound. A few quick passes and you are basicly done.

From here, if you wanted, you could apply you favorite hand polish, though its not really needed. If you do, I recommend Meguire’s Deep Crystal Polish. Apply it by hand and buff it with a finishing cloth.

http://www.tcpglobal.com/detailsuppl...emno=MIR+A2116

I also highly recommend practising on some scrap pieces before you do your actual ones.

I also know that some of this stuff is costly, but you will be able to paint anything several times. Or paint friends stuff and makes some money back. Once you get set up with all the basics, you will save money in the long run and your pieces will look better than any spray can Krylon job. Guarnteed!!

Well, that’s it!! Good luck and happy painting!!!

SeRious08

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