sound quality
#16
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Unless it's a 5:1 stereo ... im also for deleting the rear speakers.
The 12" DVC sub along with the amped front 6" mids + tweeter drown out the rears speakers.
I cringe whenever i see people upgrade the rear speakers but leave the fronts standard --- At a concert, the sound doesnt come from behind you --- it's in front of you.
A lot of it comes down to personal preference though.
The 12" DVC sub along with the amped front 6" mids + tweeter drown out the rears speakers.
I cringe whenever i see people upgrade the rear speakers but leave the fronts standard --- At a concert, the sound doesnt come from behind you --- it's in front of you.
A lot of it comes down to personal preference though.
#17
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Best advice is to go to several local car stereo shops and talk to the guys there. Tell them what kind of sound you want and they can help. And then, the most important part, listen to everything! You may be surprised by the sound of some products over others. I've been into car stereos for 15 years and I still haven't figured it all out.
#18
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McIntosh!!! If you need soemthing a bit more reasonably priced the 'older' Alpine head units that were preamp only sound spectacular. I had a Denon deck about 6 years ago that had harder bass than anything else Ive ever used but I dont know if they are still making car components. The best value on sub amps IMHO is OLDER(!!!) Orion HCCA but you need to be running them at 1 or 1/2 ohm. Realistically most reasonable quality subs (ie not Pyle) sound great in the correctly sized box with a bunch of clean power available to them...make sure your interior components use a soft dome tweeeter and dint separate the drivers too far apart when designing the front stage.
Whatever happened to waveguides other than them being large and difficult to mount?
Whatever happened to waveguides other than them being large and difficult to mount?
#20
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I'm a big fan of JBL and Polk. JBL/Infinity has been around for eons and have some of the best products out there.
Also Nakamichi head units have always been about substance and not looks. Clarion also makes some very nice heads as does Blaupunkt.
P.S. For those of you questioning the removal of rear speakers, when judging SQ the sound is often compared to "concert-like" performance. There are no speakers behind you when you go to a concert. Personally I like rear fill, but not stereo surround. 5.1 surround is even better.
Also Nakamichi head units have always been about substance and not looks. Clarion also makes some very nice heads as does Blaupunkt.
P.S. For those of you questioning the removal of rear speakers, when judging SQ the sound is often compared to "concert-like" performance. There are no speakers behind you when you go to a concert. Personally I like rear fill, but not stereo surround. 5.1 surround is even better.
#21
I would go with Clarion... Components in the front, two ways in the rear and they just came out with a new sub that's insane...It has two styles. They pound and the clarion amps are amazing. I have had nothing but good things to say about Calrion and they're products... As for head unit, I would just go with what you like, any unit that has at least 50W x 4 output would work fine.
#22
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What does the output of the head unit have anything to do if you're running external amps?
The head unit is the most important part of the system. If you start with a crap head unit it doesn't matter how bad-a$$ your amps and speakers are, it will sound like crap. Trash in, trash out.
Get a head unit that has at least 4V pre-outs or higher. Also look for the type of digital/analog conversion it uses and get opinions on it. Then decide for yourself what features and looks you would like.
The head unit is the most important part of the system. If you start with a crap head unit it doesn't matter how bad-a$$ your amps and speakers are, it will sound like crap. Trash in, trash out.
Get a head unit that has at least 4V pre-outs or higher. Also look for the type of digital/analog conversion it uses and get opinions on it. Then decide for yourself what features and looks you would like.
#23
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My suggestion (my setup)
Pioneer DVD headunit , 6.75 inch front pioneer 3 way speakers with dynamat, 6X9 inch 3 way speakers rear modified deck to accept them with dynamat, front tweeters changed to pioneer ones . Infinity 6 channel amp (soon to be replaced for pioneer amps) , 1 pioneer 12 dual coil sub and dynamat trunk kit , Monster cap 1.5 Farad capacitor....
But if it wasn't that I have the screen to monitor the OB2 I would suggest ALPINE headunit (the expensive ones ROCK)
Pioneer DVD headunit , 6.75 inch front pioneer 3 way speakers with dynamat, 6X9 inch 3 way speakers rear modified deck to accept them with dynamat, front tweeters changed to pioneer ones . Infinity 6 channel amp (soon to be replaced for pioneer amps) , 1 pioneer 12 dual coil sub and dynamat trunk kit , Monster cap 1.5 Farad capacitor....
But if it wasn't that I have the screen to monitor the OB2 I would suggest ALPINE headunit (the expensive ones ROCK)
#24
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Unless it's a 5:1 stereo ... im also for deleting the rear speakers.
The 12" DVC sub along with the amped front 6" mids + tweeter drown out the rears speakers.
I cringe whenever i see people upgrade the rear speakers but leave the fronts standard --- At a concert, the sound doesnt come from behind you --- it's in front of you.
A lot of it comes down to personal preference though.
The 12" DVC sub along with the amped front 6" mids + tweeter drown out the rears speakers.
I cringe whenever i see people upgrade the rear speakers but leave the fronts standard --- At a concert, the sound doesnt come from behind you --- it's in front of you.
A lot of it comes down to personal preference though.
Back to the subject : If you want something good, JL Audio subs, Zapco amps, monster cable wires and what not, Alpine decks are good for their options but any deck will sound like crap if you use their amp... you need something to boost those high and mids (amp)
Personnaly I keep the stock one (not so bad tweeters and mids, little sub putting some weight to the right of the car) it s good for auto x or lapping
And the best thing is no one will break one of my window to steal my sound system.. it happens in the past and my insurance company didn't want to send me 5xxx $ that the system was worth... it was a long debate getting little less then 2000 for everything
#25
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I have 2 12" kenwood subs with a 1000 watt kenwood amp and a 200 watt amped jvc kdr7000 head unit and it sounds great when you want the base you can crank it up when you dont turn it down
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