ustcc evo

I highly doubt your rotors are warped. I cycled stock Lancer rotors into red hot for 14 hours straight + many sprint races and never had a problem.

The problem is the cheap stock pads are leaving material on the rotors, making them pulse. Ten hard stops on a good set of pads will clean the rotors right up.

I would try Racing Brake 500 compound or similar, quiet for the street but strong enough for occasional track.

I use ST43s on the race car and they never fade, but are too noisy for the street.

cfdfireman1

iTrader: (11)

Raybestos FTMFW.

thenoob

If he is in cooler climate then his breaks are going to expand and contract rapidly causing warping. Your best bet bro is slotted rotors and higher performance pads.

Mark Hubley

Buy new pads. I'd say go with what RRM has.

For what it's worth, my wife is a large animal veterinarian, and she does a lot of work out of her '03 Toyota pickup truck. Her vehicle carries probably 1,000 pounds of equipment in it, which put an extra burden on the brakes. Her front rotors went bad at around 120K, and I replaced the the rotors and pads with ones purchased from Advance Auto. It wasn't long (maybe 20 or 30K miles) before the rotors went bad again. This time I replaced them with rotors and pads from the Toyota dealer. No problems since. So, I don't buy brake parts from Advance any more.

I strongly advise against using your motor to slow your car! The motor is for making the car go, and the brakes are for making it stop. Some disagree, and this has been discussed ad nauseum in other threads. Do a search if you like. I'm 40 years old, I never use my motor to slow or stop my car*, and I get plenty of life out of my brake pads and rotors. In any case, replacing brake rotors is better than replacing a motor. Using your brakes to stop your car will cause wear on the pads and rotors, but if your rotors are warped prematurely, then something else is wrong.

*I do use the motor in a low gear to maintain proper speed when descending a steep grade. However, if I'm going down a steep grade and need to stop, I still use the brakes!

LANCERGTS2008

Yeah that definitely makes sense, I will stop down shifting as often also I purchased RRM rotors and pads yesterday for my LANCER GTS. I am going to get those in about 5-7 business days. When I get those installed I will update you guys and take some pics. I appreciate the comments.

CamShaft

I have been a tech for quite a while now, and yes rotors do become warped. The problem is the cheap metals the manufacturer's use, or the cheap aftermarket "made in china" rotors people buy.

I have seen it first hand, mount it on a brake lathe and start turning, and the first few cuts only hit one spot on the rotor. So it isn't a scam and I really don't feel like reading that huge article.

thenoob

I also am a certified tech, and have seen what turning rotors can do. The amount taken off of measured in thousandths, leaving plenty of rotor left. This is not a scam.

cfdfireman1

iTrader: (11)

brand new rotor on the same lathe techi and take a look at it. You're right don't read it's bad for you. I've seen a few of your ASE tests and they're a joke.

Like ustcc evo said and you can talk to anybody that has done more than a few track days the symptoms most people will say is caused by "Warped Rotors" is caused by uneven pad deposits and can be easily fixed by a few brake applications at speed if done properly.

cfdfireman1

iTrader: (11)

car out and do a proper brake bedding and see what happens.

CamShaft

Funny thing, I am NOT an ASE tech. We have higher qualifications here in Canada. Sorry to say but turning a rotor is a must. You will lose braking efficiency and also you pads will wear out faster (a lot faster if your don't turn them) I suggest finding a new source to base your "everyday use" cars upon those mechanical suggestions you found.

As with a race car yes I agree, don't turn them, costs too much money and they are much higher quality parts that won't pass DOT for an on highway car. I inspect vehicles from passenger cars to big rigs here in Canada. I know my stuff. You can just leave it at that.

Turning rotors, yes. Its cheap, and for older vehicles its almost cheaper to get new rotors.

You can buy cheap crap and when you put them on a brake lathe to turn you will notice they are out a bit. Thats the quality you pay for. Bottom line you should turn your rotors, don't listen to someone who thinks they are a race car driver.

cfdfireman1

iTrader: (11)

Carroll Smith (1932-2003) was a successful professional race car driver, engineer, and author.

Engineer not Canadian Tire tech.

And guess what the evo is a "race car"

CamShaft

1. this is not an EVO forum
2. I don't work at Canadian Tire, I work at a dealership
3. Also there is nothing in the article about not resurfacing your rotors because it is bad
4. You just keep on using the same rotors while I machine and replace mine, I would bet you that my car would have better stopping capability and longer life of the pads/rotors.

ustcc evo

Rotors only lose braking efficiency if they are 'glazed'. Turning can fix this, or buying a good set of pads and breaking them in properly will also fix this. Uneven glazing or pad deposits will make the pedal pulse. If you turn rotors and only take a few thousands off, that is not enough to make the pedal pulse. Every single Evo has this problem, and the thread has been beat to death on these boards.

I've been racing for ten years, competed in over 100 NASA and SCCA races, including 6 12+ hour races, and have never warped a rotor, not once. Never see a warped rotor either on anyone else's car, just cracked rotors. Most people run stock brake hardware and stock smooth rotors. And good pads.

The best rotors for first gen RX-7s are rusty old ones out of a junkyard. Knock the rust off with two laps on an old set of pads. They last longer and take longer to crack because the oxidation changes the metal over long periods of time.

That's funny.

I'll put my money where my mouth is. The next person who wants to fix this problem, let me help you buy a good set of pads from my friend Jeff at speedtoys.net. I'll guarantee the best price for the pads, and if they don't knock the pulse off after 10 hard stops, I'll buy you a new set of front rotors.

I am not kidding.

WRC-LVR

iTrader: (1)

^^^ I fully agree with David

The problem on the EVO is uneven pad transfer...There are a ton of threads here regarding this. On a higher tech level, try Carbotech's web site, part of the tech discussion covers the layer transfer and what causes uneven pulsing.

I ve had this happen on multiple cars and used to cut the rotors. Everything will be great until you make one hard stop and all of a sudden the wheels start to shake.

Re-perform the proper bedding procedure and the problem will go away. Some pads are worse than others at doing it. I believe it has to do with the bonding resin that binds the pad material together ( not to the backing plate ) ...some may allow a momentary initial release under high pressure and voila little high spot on one part of the rotor. If you re-bed, the coating becomes even around the rotor and the pulsing goes away.

I had this problem with the stock pads, Project mu, and CArbotech pads. I had to rebed the Carbotechs, on brand new DBA 4000 rotors within the week. No the rotors werent warped. I miked them on a lathe at work...no runout at all and no variation in thickness....after I re-bedded them !!!!

Rotors can be warped,,in fact I once had to replace a rotor on a 1984 Honda that had a large hard spot on it, the rotor was turned twice on a lathe to attempt to fix but nothing doing. A replacement rotor fixed the problem

BTW you cant accurately determine runout ON the car..it has to be done on a lathe with an accurate mounting surface and properly rigidly mounted guage. So the next time you take your EVO to some chain shop and they say we checked it and the rotor is warped but did it with a magnetically mounted guage turning the rotor by hand on the car...you should know better.

I speak from 40 years experience in working on cars, driving race cars and working on them. But dont take my word. Google brake pad transfer layer and find out for yourself

Milburn

thenoob

Let's get back to the discussion at hand. The guy has a STOCK Lancer GTS. Not an EVO. His breaks pulse upon depression. He asked for our opinion on the matter and what he should do. Not bash other members for their input . The easiest way to fix the problem is to turn the rotors. You don't need to spend the money on new ones. It may be uneven deposits, it may not be. Let's agree to disagree and share a cold one!