*02Lancer*

iTrader: (3)

Why so what's it doing?

Green_Bandit

iTrader: (25)

There's multiple things that happen with this that weren't quite covered.


First, the proportioning valve. The female sealing ends are convex. The lines I have are convex as well. from my experience with my bbk those aren't going to mix. So you may think we'll just get some different lines Bandit. Well, the brake lines on the Lancer already are convex as well! Not going to mix. So I decided to drill the valve and the master cylinder (because that's convex as well!) to make a better seal.

The main problem, I can't get the VR4 master cylinder to bleed for the life of me! I thought it was the cylinder at first because the one I got was a little beat up. I got another in much better condition and this one is doing the same thing!

It's a dual piston obviously. I can get piston 2 air free but piston 1 just won't get clean. I've tried multiple bleeding methods multiple times. Tried bench bleeding; air. Tried pinching the lines between pumps; air. Tried switching the lines to see if it was my equipment; still air.

No, I'm not letting the reservoir run dry. I'm pumping slow, holding, letting the bubbles dissipate. Both bleeding hoses routed back into the reservoir.

Guys, I'm really stumped on this. Watched multiple videos to see if I missed something, surfed multiple boards. I don't know what I'm missing. I'm thinking about taking it to an automotive ship and have them attempt to vacuum bleed it.

Hayk Karapetyan

Ive never seen anyone discuss the option of an aftermarket proportioning valve.
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3905
Im gonna be upgrading my brakes sooner or later. And as far as i understand the problem with our stock MC/PV is that its not gonna be sending enough brake fluid to the rear brakes. So would this be a good solution or the main problem is that the factory MC does not hold enough brake fluid in it?

Green_Bandit

iTrader: (25)

You don't HAVE to do this mod. I rode around for about 2 years without having doing this mod. If you just want to stop at the brakes upgrade you'd be fine. I went back and edited the main posts to reflect my progress. I'll finish up later.

After some time with this done I will say things do feel more settled and I have peace of mind that pad wear hopefully should be more or less even.

JB2003OZ

Hi there! First I'd like to say thanks to Green Bandit for taking the time to do this write up. I'm looking to do this on my car. I've read through this and the 5 lug conversion thread but I wanted to verify a few things. Hoping you can help confirm.

Before start I have an 03 OZ Rally. Looking for a straight bolt on conversion and keeping the stock 4 bolt hub pattern I have now. Not looking for the added expense of converting to 5 lug since I'm keeping stock wheels.

1. The 91-92 Galant VR-4 rotors slide right on the stock rear hub of the '02-'04 hub correct? The redrilling and buying Mini Cooper S rotors is for the ES guys?

2. Just wanted to verify: The front brake lines from the '02-'04 lancer OZ Rally will fit the 91-94 dsm rear brake calipers used for this conversion? Just want to make sure. Junk yard closest to me here doesn't have donor cars for the recommended brake lines. They DO have an 03 OZ Rally I'm planning on snagging the front brake lines from.

4. Are any master cylinder/proportioning valve/booster changes needed for this conversion if I plan to continue using stock OZ front brakes with the rear disc conversion setup? The way I understand it you don't need to and the proportioning valve stuff etc. is a mod that "may" increase performance but isn't worth the hassle?

5. It looks like with this setup you're running with rotors out in open air with no back plate/dust shield. Are there any options for bolting on backshields from another mitsu etc when keeping the stock rear hubs on our OZ's?


I've had my car since I bought it new (2003 Lancer OZ Rally). Rear drum brakes are the one thing I've always hated on this car. Needless to say after a few brake jobs on this car over the course of the almost decade and a half I've owned it, I'm over drum brakes. I'm looking to convert to rear discs purely for convenience and appearance. As long as braking performance isn't degraded with this setup I may finally get it done.

tennancour21

This may be a stupid question, but I am new here and to vehicle work in general. Does converting your rear drum brakes to disk give you an real advantage if you're stock, or is it something you don't really have to think much about unless you have a boosted lancer?

BlkRalliart309

I know it's been a while since this was last discussed, but I figured I'd throw in my experience with this mod on a manual 2002 OZ Rally that I'm racing in the 24 Hours of Lemons. My goal was ease of maintenance (we ran through a whole set of shoes in one race, and I hate changing them) and as little modification to parts as possible. I'm also running Wilwood Dynalites up front, on a stock master and booster. With this setup everyone feels like we need a proportioning valve to reduce the pressure to the rears, as the rears lock very easily in the wet and will sometimes lock before the fronts in the dry.

My parts list (available on Rock Auto unless otherwise noted). All items should appear under the 2004 2.4L Lancer Sportback/Ralliart.

Left Rear Caliper: Centric 141.46552
Right Rear Caliper: Centric 141.46551
Rotors: Bendix PRT1703
Pads: Centric 30010370
E-Brake Shoe: Beck-Arnley 081-3248
E-Brake Hardware Kit: Raybestos H17405
Rear Caliper Mounting Bolt (Amazon): Belmetric M12x1.25x16mm
Rear Caliper Flex Hose: Raybestos BH383921
Rear Hard Line (Autozone): AGS PAE-308
Right Backing Plate (Mitsibishi Parts Warehouse): MN116503
Left Backing Plate* (Junkyard off 2004 Ralliart/Sportback 2.4L): MN116502

When I got the car, the rear brake lines had been run through the passenger compartment, so your lines at the rear may vary from mine, as I don't know how the stock ones are.

After removing everything as described above, I installed the backing plates, the left side E-brake hardware and cable*, then replaced the hubs, installed the rotors and calipers and the flex lines. I screwed one end of the hard line into the line from the chassis, then had to bend the hard line to meet up with the flex line (there is a tab with a hole in it on the backing plate where they are supposed to meet).

We got three races and multiple track days out of the rear pads, and they're so much easier to check and maintain. Major quality of life improvement for a race car and everything basically bolted right on. If anyone wants pictures of my setup or has questions, let me know.

* I only have a left E-brake because the warehouse in Malaysia that had the left-side backing plates got washed away in a tsunami or something. So when I ordered it from the junkyard, they sent me the plate and all the E-brake components. I cannot find part numbers for the parking brake strut (shoe seperator) or the lever that the cable connects to. The ones from the OZ are larger so I may just try to cut them down to fit or hit up the junkyard again.