StreetLancer

Okay, I know that this stuff has been asked before, so, I'll preface by saying that: 1) I did a search. Look to the left, and you'll see that I'm not exactly a noob, so, I was clever enough to notice the search function. 2) I read the FAQs. After that, the info I was seeking was not there for either. That being said, let's move on.

I have an ES, and right now, I'm focusing on suspension. The next step is going to be struts/springs. The only things I'm noticing is the lean is coming from the corners, since I have made a few custom chasis stiffening parts myself. I know a sway bar is an option, but, I'm seeing that as after the struts and springs. Now, I should go further in saying that when I was on here half a millennia ago, it was rumored that Mirage struts would fit the ES, and that for sure, Mirage springs would fit the ES (with more drop, due to the extra weight). I came back a little while ago, and read that Mirage struts did not work on the ES after all.

So, that brings me to a dilemma. I'm really wanting some upgraded, non-adjustable struts, and some springs. If the Mirage struts work, that's great. I just need confirmation. If they do not, can anyone tell me what strut options there are for the OZ (I know the spring options), and how much it would run to make the OZ suspension work on an ES. Lastly, I was wondering if anyone had any information on transferring a Ralliart suspension from the Lancer Ralliart to an ES, and what would the cost effectiveness of this be.

I appreciate all help in this, and save the comments unless they are informative. Thanks.

StreetLancer

C'mon. Somebody has to have some info here. Urbanknight? Anyone?

2BBoosted

hey man as you can see im new at this but i did read somewhere that the differance in the oz suspen has a bigger dia. spring and that you just have to change out the top strut mount which shouldnt be to much, i think thats what the tein coil overs do but have that verified first, hope i helped

urbanknight

iTrader: (14)

Dang, has this thread been in Lancer suspension all 3 days? I must have missed it.

Anyway, one thing for you to know is that if you are changing BOTH the shocks and springs, you can use OZ or ES parts. I highly recommend the following options:

- Tein Basic kit. I think it's $800-900, will fit on any 02/03 Lancer model, and includes non adjustable shocks with adjustable coilover springs.

- Tokiko shocks for Lancer ES and any ES size spring. Tokiko is a great company, and I know there are Progress springs for the ES.

And I agree, get the shocks and springs first, then a sway bar. Keep in mind, though, that your car will understeer a lot after lowering it until you do put that sway bar and maybe some front camber on it.

StreetLancer

Yeah, Brian, I was severely disappointed.

Okay, obviously, Tein... not an option for a married college student/LP guy like yours truly. Maybe in the magical land of wet dreams, but...

Okay, so, Tokiko has some struts for the ES? Any suggestions where to find thes wonderful things? That makes me mui happy. Maybe those and some H&R springs... a camber kit... and some alignment... yummy.

urbanknight

iTrader: (14)

I was pretty sure Road Race could get those Tokiko shocks, and the camber kit they sell should fit those perfectly. They were pairing them with Progress springs, but if you know where to get H&R that's a good brand too.

StreetLancer

Okay, so, these Tokikos... are they Mirage parts? I mean, that's the main thing I was trying to confirm is that the Mirage struts had been fitted to an ES with no problems. If that's the case, then, I'm sure I can hunt some up. I'd love to hear that someone has these on their cars currently.

As for the H&Rs... I had found a Cup series set for a Mirage when we first confirmed the springs would work... had a less aggressive drop than the Progress set. I'm not looking for much of a drop, after all, but, streetability and stiffness at the corners.

Appreciate all the help, now, if some part numbers were to just magically appear, I can start hammering my wife for the next few months about next year's tax return

urbanknight

iTrader: (14)

The Tokikos are listed for the Lancer ES, but you can ask for part numbers and compare with the ones listed for the Mirage. I think it's only a certain generation of Mirage that it fits on though. Keep in mind there are different Mirages from 1990 to 2002.

StreetLancer

I was checking out the Tokico website, and it didn't have anything listed for the ES, but, had 97-03 Mirage... I sent an email to Road Race in hopes that they may be able to answer my question, but...

urbanknight

iTrader: (14)

Rob should be able to answer that for you, if not let me know and I'll bug him. He's coming back from Willow Springs tonight but you should get a response tomorrow night

Tristar

iTrader: (7)

Brian, instead of starting a new thread Ill just add on to the back of this one, to keep things simple. Autocrossed again today, maybe my 6th or 7th time ever, and Im finally starting to explore the limits of the car. Well quite frankly Im flustrated. (As a reminder, Im a running front strut brace, rear sway, eibach springs, and 17 inch Yokohama AVS ES100s) Heres the deal, the car is unpredictable. It will push like a hog in one corner, yet under braking and any slight turn the car is unstable and prone to spinning. (Didnt spin today, damn near close calls though) I have had the Eibachs for probably 30,000 miles now, and I know lowering springs with higher spring rates can cause a strut to have a shorter life. Im almost wondering if worn out struts are causing crazy stuff to happen with back to front weight transfer....(Running 42 psi in front, 38 psi in rear)

So heres the question, how are the Teins guys? If I have to replace struts, Im doing the coil-overs because its not much more than doing new struts and springs. I might go with the basic damper setup if I can get more info on the valving and how they are set up, otherwise Id like some control over damping. (Hey, IM an engineer, I have to be able to mess with something,lol) Im just looking for a car that is consistent, I dont care if its going to plow like a dump truck, as long as it does that all the time.

urbanknight

iTrader: (14)

Tristar: First, you need to get a camber kit. The Lancer has crappy alignment specs and will be squirrelly until you get a good camber setting.

Second, you need to attend some more driving schools. Entry speed in the corners is what makes you think it's more insonsistent. Most of the times I plow is when I am entering too fast and turn in incorrectly.

Third, the car will plow after lowering until you get a good amount of camber up front. PM me for alignment specs that seem to be working right now. I highly recommend you get adjustable dampeners, though. That's more important than adjustable ride height if you ask me.

Fourth, your tires are a bit mushy for autocross. If you find the funds, I highly suggest a set of Kumho MX or Falken Azenis tires. I'm on BFG G-force KD and I love them!

Tristar

iTrader: (7)

I am basing the inconsistancy on similar speeds. Im not overcooking entrys into turns, its more after the apex. Once getting back into the throttle the car definately does not rotate in the manner it should as demonstrated by braking. (any fwd car will push under acceleration, as your asking the front tires to do too much) Im definately not overdriving the car, as was told to me by a number of observers. Hence why I said today was probably the first event I drove to the limits of the vehicle. Agreed though that any seat time is helpful, especially with good instructors. Im very interested on the camber advice you have to offer though....

Like I said, Im just flustrated with the instability of the car, especially under braking. Its almost making me want to dump the rear sway....

At any rate, Id love to rock some KDs, Azenis's, or Kuhmo MX's but none of those tires were availible in the 205/45/17 size when I bought them last summer, and I have very little money at this point, at least money to be spent on new tires when the Yoks are still fine.

urbanknight

iTrader: (14)

As for tires, if you still have the stock rims that would actually be better for you than 17s. But the MXs come in 215/40/17 which is a tad wider than the 205 (more traction) and about the same diamater.

urbanknight

iTrader: (14)

One thing to keep in mind is that you can induce oversteer in your car very easily just by releasing the throttle for an instant. The trick is learning how much throttle to use after that. On stock suspension, I flicked off the throttle shortly after entering the turn, counter-steered, then slowly inclreased the throttle until I was almost through the turn, then punched it towards the straight. But I definitely agree with you, the car is inconsistent, and was still that way with coilovers, sway bars, strut bars, etc. Only camber fixed that for me.