Caliper bolt seized
 

Changing my rotors and can't get the caliper bolt out. The top one in the caliper not the caliper hat. Any ideas?

Some wd40 or pb blaster, very very (very) sparing application of a torch if you have it and a bigger breaker bar than youre currently using. If that doesnt work, spray the wd40 or whatever on it and let it sit for a couple hours.

I soaked it all night with wd40 to no avail, lucky for me one of my neighbors had the biggest breaker bar i've ever seen and he helped me out. My lancer's feeling good with brand new brakes!

Very cool!

Just figured I would throw this out there for people having trouble with their brakes. For the past couple years I been having a lot of problems with my brakes, basically kept warping rotors and wasn't sure why. I replaced every single part of the braking system and replaced it a couple times. Still, 6 months go by and warped rotors. So this time I figured maybe I was just getting crappy rotors and decided to upgrade to drilled and slotted rotors. With the new nice looking rotors, I decided that the calipers needed some black paint to bring up the appeal of the rotors. I took both rotors off of the car, cleaned them really good, and painted them. After they were painted, I began to install the new boots and brake hardware. Well I greased the 1st bracket and had it ready to put back on the car. I had the pins sitting in it so they wouldn't get dirt and debris in the clean greased bracket. By the time it took me to grease the other bracket and come back to this one to install it, I noticed that I couldn't budge the bottom pin (one that has the boot go thru the entire bracket). I had to use brute force to get it back out. Both brackets had the same problem. The rubber boot was forming such a vacuum that I was unable to move the pin after a cpl minutes. So I took the rubber boots out and checked the thru hole diameter. It was roughly .405-.410" I took 3 drill bits and drilled it out. letter Z drill, then 27/64 and finally 7/16. Cleaned out the hole, greased it and put the boot back in. Now the caliper pin actually functions the way it should and now my braking is a lot better and I have no signs of the problem that has been plaguing me for a couple years. Hope this helps someone

Been having same problem for years now. Hoping that will work with mine. I've repalce the boots before. Had to force them through.

This worked for me for awhile, I no longer had the problem with the pin sticking, but after a yr or so I kept warping rotors. I hated the design so much, I ended up running dual piston calipers and brackets from a 96 awd eclipse. For complete swap, only cost me $300 or so. Now I have bigger rotors too.

Those brackets from the 96 eclipse will bolt right up to stock hub of 2002 lancer ls and oz rally? Do you have read drums?

Yes they will, they even clear my oz wheels. Barely, but they clear. Braking is so much better. Stopping is on a dime. Depending on your bolt pattern on your wheels, you have to use different rotors. I figured, why replace calipers that I know suck and will have the same issue, when I can just change them to a better setup for the same price. I have 4x114.3 bolt pattern. I used the rotors off of an 04 lancer sportback. They are the correct diameter. Only thing I had to do was take washers and shim out the caliper bracket a little bit so that the rotor would have an even gap on each side so it wouldn't rub.

With this set up you get rid of that stupid boot slider design? Part list would be 96 eclipse awd caliper,bracket and pads. Then just need 04 sport back rotors. Do I need to use different brake hose or will the fitting be same from stock to new caliper. I run the oz rally's during the winter so you answered that question already.

Yeah it will get rid of that retarded pin. They are both the same size pins and only have the accordion boots. Yeah that's all you need. 96 eclipse awd brackets, hardware, and slide pins. The hose even bolts up the exact same way. I did install stainless steel braided lines too when I did the install. Just go to rockauto. Should be able to get the caliper and brackets with pins for $60/ side. Then I got the rotors from brakeperformance.com I even got drilled and slotted rotors. If you go to do the install, I can rip a caliper off and check the thickness of the washer I used. It was either .05 or .100"

No need to figure washer size I can figure that out once I get all the parts. For now I'm just replacing boots and drilling out holes until I run the pad down that I have now. Don't really have the extra cash right now to buy everything. Found calipers for 61$ each and pads for 29$. Just rotors are only issue price wise. Can get centric drilled and slotted for 68$ each or 114$ for both front rotors brake performance site. How are the rotors you got from them?

They aren't bad, no worse than any other ones I had. They are actually better than the ones I got off of rock auto that were oem size drilled and slotted.

I like that they have free shipping and lifetime warranty on rotors

After you drilled the holes out, did you use the slider to push boots into place? It the only way I seem to be able to get them through any other ways to do it?