Uneven tire wear
I have had my progress springs and antisway bar installed for about a year now and I have been having trouble with the rear tires wearing down badly on the outer tread , not the sidewalls but just the last tread ring. Inside treads look like new. Has anyone else had this problem, or have any suggestions as to what I can/should do to fix it.
I did have the antisway on with stock perches initially and the stock perch on the drivers side broke twice. Both times I drove for a few weeks with a broken perch. I purchased the stronger perches and they are on now, but I didn't replace the links the second time the stock perch broke. So could the links be bent and causing this, or is this a typical problem? I had the springs installed buy a reputable mechanic, but could the perch breaking unseat my spring or something. Any help appreciated.
I did have the antisway on with stock perches initially and the stock perch on the drivers side broke twice. Both times I drove for a few weeks with a broken perch. I purchased the stronger perches and they are on now, but I didn't replace the links the second time the stock perch broke. So could the links be bent and causing this, or is this a typical problem? I had the springs installed buy a reputable mechanic, but could the perch breaking unseat my spring or something. Any help appreciated.
The shop that installed the springs, which came after the sway bar, set the alignment to mitsu spec. This shop is in Ohio and I have since moved to Florida so I wont be able to deal with them anymore. Anyhow, I did ask them about the tire wear before I moved and they said they set it to spec so the only way they could somewhat acurately adjust the camber is when I buy my next set of tires to have them measure the tread depth and then drive it for like 500mi and bring it back to them and have them remeasure the tread depth and adjust the camber accordingly. No, they don't sell tires..lol. They even gave me a print-out of the mitsu specs so I know they had the right info.
So I guess....what do you think about what I just said? What about the links I mentioned? Does this sound like BS? Anyone else feel free to chime in.
The "crazy positive camber" might be good if I was racing, but I'm not and I want this next set of tires to last.
So I guess....what do you think about what I just said? What about the links I mentioned? Does this sound like BS? Anyone else feel free to chime in.
The "crazy positive camber" might be good if I was racing, but I'm not and I want this next set of tires to last.
Last edited by sdhes; Nov 14, 2006 at 02:16 PM.
the perch breaking should not have messed you up. i drove my OZ with a broken perch on the driver's side for almost ten months. i never caught that issue from day 1 when i bought the car. i have since fixed it and have not seen any issues when it comes to tire wear.
Joined: Apr 2005
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Originally Posted by sdhes
The "crazy positive camber" might be good if I was racing, but I'm not and I want this next set of tires to last.
Negative camber is what is good for racing.

If you want tires to last 0 camber and 0 toe will "square" up the tire to the road for straight line driving.
What was your toe set to?
Last edited by Smike; Nov 15, 2006 at 12:25 PM.
I had a problem with positive camber on the rear tires, wore out the inside tread bad. Just adjusted the camber on the control arm and I'm golden. I'm guessing you don't know about the camber adjustment...so, it's the copper colored ob-long dial thingie resested into the arm connecting onto the frame. There's two dials on each side, and they can be adjusted with two 17mm? wrenches. Hope this gets you started...
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yeah, i do believe those are 17mm bolts and nuts, i just had 'em out of the car the other day.
every time you mess with those bolts you'll need to get an alignment though. you can pop out the other bolts, but when you mess with the ones with the camber plates you'll run into problems if you don't get an alignment.
every time you mess with those bolts you'll need to get an alignment though. you can pop out the other bolts, but when you mess with the ones with the camber plates you'll run into problems if you don't get an alignment.
What was your toe set to?
I had a problem with positive camber on the rear tires, wore out the inside tread bad. Just adjusted the camber on the control arm and I'm golden. I'm guessing you don't know about the camber adjustment...so, it's the copper colored ob-long dial thingie resested into the arm connecting onto the frame. There's two dials on each side, and they can be adjusted with two 17mm? wrenches. Hope this gets you
yeah, i do believe those are 17mm bolts and nuts, i just had 'em out of the car the other day.
every time you mess with those bolts you'll need to get an alignment though. you can pop out the other bolts, but when you mess with the ones with the camber plates you'll run into problems if you don't get an alignment.
every time you mess with those bolts you'll need to get an alignment though. you can pop out the other bolts, but when you mess with the ones with the camber plates you'll run into problems if you don't get an alignment.
So I need: Floor Jack, Jack Stands, 17mm socket and wrench, and an adjustable wrench?
^ Yes to the tools and such... On the dial's, there are tick marks; so you can confidently mark and change each the equal amount. Remember, there is a dial on each side for both sides...so 4 in total. Just make sure to mark with a permenent marker.
Originally Posted by SLVROZ_03
My RRD bar connects onto the rear 17mm bolts that goe through the "dials". The dials have tick marks like the pic.
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