Can it be the radiator fan problem?

1/. radiator hose will be super hot for sure.
2/. coolant temperature sensor will be trip.
3/. with hot engine temperature, engine oil go thin, oil pressure go down
4/. no fan load, alternator over changed the battery (this is a may be)

Since it isn't summer yet, may be you can still do short trip without frying the engine. But, with so many important warning, a trip to the dealer is a good idea.

 

without the fan, your coolant temp would pop up while driving, also it wouldn't be able to heat your oil to the point of no pressure, also his LCD is on all the time. It sounds like a bad data link problem between the engine ECU and the ETACS-ECU

 

Well I'm bringing the car to the dealer Wednesday morning for them to have the whole day to work on it, but the service manager said he would have no idea how long it would take. I've been having so many problems with this car, I think once its fixed I will trade it for a Mazda 3 or SPEED3

 

OMG!!! ipv, what you suggested makes perfect sense! and you know what? I opened the hood when i got home before i shut off my car and sure enough, the fans were NOT spinning at all! Any relays/fuses I can check/replace on my own??

Thanks ipv!

 

Kind of suprise that the dealer didn't catch it....

Also, you have to know that radiator fan do turn on and off as required.

But, if your radiator fan did fail, you will see the coolant temperature go off the roof on the LCD.

So, my suggestion is check the fuse first. If you don't have blown fuse. Then put the LCD to coolant temperature and go around town. If the coolant temperature did rise to abnormal high temperature, you know the coolant system is really the problem. If the coolant temperature is fine, it could just be bad connection on the ECU too.

Good luck on your trouble shooting

ps: sorry, I don't remember what's inside the fuse box. You will have to look into the car manual for the fuse box info.

 

Well I hadnt taken it to the dealer yet, I noticed it on my own!


Yes, i set my LCD to the coolant display and it didnt seem to rise to abnormal temp, but then again I didnt do too much driving with it at a time today. I checked all the fuses and they are okay, but idk how to check relays!

 

to check your relays, you need 12V supply and ground and a multimeter.

Depending on how the relay is or how its wired. Its most likely a 5 pin relay but only 4 connections in the slot. Anways, put 12 V to pin 85 and ground 86, then measure continuity in pins 87-30 and you should have 0 ohms when powering the pins (85-86) and no continuity when voltage or ground is taken away.

The more I look at the schematics, the more I suspect a problem with wiring or a ECU problem, that with the ETACS-ECU, basically the backbone and the "information exchanger" between all ECU's in the car.

So I don't get paid by mitsu to figure your problem out... I suggest making the dealer fix it, and for free. There should be no diagnostic charge for this. Just tell him you are thinking its a problem with the ETACS-ECU and you have checked the fan relay. Make sure you do check it. ECT. Best of luck.

UPDATE:

The fan relay is controlled by the ground from the ETACS-ECU from connector C-317 on pin 2. But this doesn't explain you battery and oil problem, which all run through this ECU. Think of this ECU as you vehicle ECU, whic the engine talks to this ECu and the ETACS ecu talk you your dash ECU to give you warnings and whatnot (also speed and rpms.) Short crash course in computers for cars.

 

Thank you, I will try this tomorrow if I have time.....btw, I know I said I was taking it to the dealer tomorrow (Wednesday), but just to show how ****ty Mitsubishi is, The service manager called me up and said the "Mitsubishi guy" was going to be in school for the rest of the week. Now I have to wait until Tuesday of next week!

 

any updates? curious....

 

if they havent gotten to it yet i would take it on a long road trip, fry the engine and have them drop a fresh block in the car, i know you only have 5000 miles on the car, but a new engine never hurt anyone!!

 

ok so think about it.

If the engine isn't running but you have the key in 'on' mode the ECU thinks the car SHOULD be running, however the engine is not spinning to create oil pressure or create electrical energy VIA the alternator. Therefore all it sees is ZERO oil pressure and ZERO electrical energy being created, freaks out and turns the lights on.

The lights are not smart enough to know if the engine is running or not.

 

the cos:

if you read further back on the posts this light displayed even after the car was off and the LCD would stay on forever and drain his battery... thats the problem, but yes when you start up it does the light check...we have been over this?! something I am missing that you are trying to say?

 

^^ oh sorry I missed that, that was pretty late last night for me

 

well now we are on the same page cosworth....where is yitzak to update??!

 

Sorry guys for being late!!!!!! I honestly didnt think people were on this topic anymore.

But anyways: A couple days before I took it in, it stopped doing it; the dash lights and whatnot. So I took it in anyways just in case and they did every test they could think of, and they found absolutely nothing wrong.

Weird, eh???