That's not bad at all man id definitely pull the head and just get the valve replaced ill bet you just have a bent valve not really a big deal (except of course you can't drive it now) The difference in sound is because of the low compression. Valves are cheap just replace it sounds like the rest of the engine is still top notch.

 

also your coil packs should still be fine. but the COB most def needs replaced. and like 02 lancer said check your pistons

 

When I pull the head will the damage be easily noticeable? So it's just one valve it seems? That indeed doesn't sound to bad, do I attempt to replace the valve myself or is that something a machine shop has to do? I'm going deeper and deeper down this rabbit hole.

Any links to pictures of bent valves/damage to look for?

Since i'll have the head removed and the car is at around 140k, is there anything you guys would do while i'm elbows deep in this mother? maintenance wise.

Ahh yes the coil packs, COB=coil over boot i bet, yea those are toast. they just pop in and out of the coil pack tho, I see some on rockauto for $5!

 

Just take the head to a machine shop , sometimes its almost impossible to tell if any are bent . While your in there just replace the valve seals and valve guides .

 

Is that weird for 3 to be ok and 1 to fail? Im wondering since that COB came a part in the cylinder maybe a piece fell down in there and is blocking a valve?

guess ill find out soon enough

thanks thanks thanksssssssssssssssssssss haha cant say it enough

 

No problem !
Now that your pulling off the head , quick tip and buy a big breaker bar and a 12 point 10mm socket to pull the head studs !

 

hahah oh Yes I have a large breaker bar, it's how I got the damn crank pully finally off. I just put my legs against the lower control arm(?) and pulled with all my might and it came loose lol.

I have those sockets too, I have the FSM from senate, im just goin off the cylinder head gasket removal instructions correct? to remove the head.

how long of a job is this, i can't really tell from the instructions.

edit: oops think I found it in a different "overhaul" section

 

Not too difficult. As far as the valves go yeah I agree with the rest just take it in. You can always pour a little gas down into the intake/exhaust ports of the low comp cylinder making sure the valves are closed and the bent one will leak the gas out but better to just take it in they will do a pressure test and replace anything bent or broken.

 

Ah, ty.

From what I can see in the FSM, the head assembly comes off in one piece with just the removal of the cylinder head bolts?

take that whole assembly to a local machine shop? u know how much that typically runs? im finding supposed good condition heads on car-part.com for around $100

edit:mm clearly i have no idea wtf im talking about hahaha, Remove IM/EM remove the valve cover, camshoft sprocket. then the cylinder head bolts and the assembly comes off?

 

yeah, pretty much, drain your coolant first...when you pull the head you'll dump coolant into the cylinders and the oil ports, lol...so try to keep that to a minimum

My head, to have it machined, cleaned and dipped, all 16 valves/seats ground, seated, and lapped was about $280 but i took it apart myself and just sent the head with the valves, the machinist doesn't need springs, retainers, rockers etc.

upon reassembly you'll want new valve stem seals (use assembly lube), and you should be good to go...

If you can tell which valves are bent you COULD replace and lap them yourself...technically...depends on your budget...

 

Could you guys give me a base order of operations here

Ive pretty much disconnected or unbolted everything I can see running to the head. For the intake manifold though, can I just unbolt that entire assembly with the throttle body on top and move it out of the way? its kind of a confusing mess back there. Secondly I unbolted a piece from the drive's side of the head and began sliding it out and I think the cam was coming with it or some long bar running through the head. Kind of spooked me so I slid it back and left it in there. So do I need to remove that? The exhaust manifold I have all unbolted but I can't get it off the block I think I need to unbolt the lower half of the exhaust assembly and those 3/4" bolts won't budge! are those locked on or anything?.. Other than that, so far so good, some stuck bolts, 1 broken one.

yes yes i know im slow, yes i know a real mechanic woulda' been done in about 2 days and this car has been down for month plus but we got the extra vehicle and I wanna learn + save money.

so thanks for keeping up with this thread and droppin knowledge

 

you will encounter many stuck bolts, if you don't have an impact, try to break them loose quickly, otherwise the slower you go, the more likely they will just twist and break. penetrating oil is your friend.

The cam shouldn't slide out the driver side if the cam gear is still attached...it sounds like you pulled the cam position sensor housing and unbolted the cam angle sensor cylinder which is bolted to the camshaft...you don't need to remove that until the head is off the motor...

once you get the exhaust manifold and intake manifold off, you just unbolt the head bolts and pull it off...the intake manifold it's supported by a bracket that needs to be unbolted before you can pull it off from up top...

 

haha you are the man my friend, thanks!

 

Well everything was coming a long real nice, head is ready to come out. I followed the instructions in the FSM loosening them in order, in 3 steps. Still, something went wrong because #8 and #10 just rounded off, using my 10mm 12pt socket.

gonna go buy this http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece...ets-67894.html

tomorrow and hope it fixes my problem. i guess i need to buy a new set of cylinder head bolts? or can they be replaced individually? Just these rounded bolts to deal with and the head's off to the machine shop, any tips on these stuck bolts, appreciated. I think my problem was not cleaning them of all that oil before trying to loosen them

 

Ouch man really? I had that happen to me while I was pulling the heads on a V6 toyota engine. They were 12 point metric bolts. I ended up taking the next size down standard size socket and sacrificed it by beating it onto the bolt head to get enough grip to break it loose. Head bolts are tight!!!!. I have several types of those damaged bolt head remover kits and none worked for me on that engine.