HELP! Wire sliced in firewall - car is limping???
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HELP! Wire sliced in firewall - car is limping???
Before I start, I am a NOOB; I made a huge mistake; and I may be screwed - I understand this....
So here it is - I was installing fog lights in my car, I went to cut a hole in my firewall to send the power for the switch into my car, and in my utmost stupidity, I used a knife and I heard the fuse box do a fast-paced clicking and I immediately stopped (and the immediately went into panic mode). Raging with anxiety, I jumped into the car and when I turned the key the car started, but puttered and turned off (super-panic mode). I took off the firewall grommet and saw the sliced wires – I sliced the thick red wire (prob 8 gauge) and another thin red wire with black and silver lines/dashes. I then sealed them with electrical tape. I then went to turn the car on again, this time while applying gas; the car stayed on but did not sound right at all (engine was louder and the exhaust was putting out excessive (colorless) fumes), I then put the car in reverse and the whole engine looked like as it was seizing, I then quickly turned off the car.
Over the next several hours I check all of the fuses (engine and cabin) and relays (pulled out and switched them around to other, matching ports – still am have the same issue. After multiple starts and letting the car sit there in park for about 5 mins, I was able to engage the car in drive without the engine acting like it was trying to escape from the rest of the car, however, when I drove my car it never left 1st gear (limp mode??). It then puttered and died as I rolled into the driveway. Everything was tested and functional EXCEPT for the outside temp is showing two dashes (- -), the airbag service is showing (on instrument panel and by the hazard lights button). I spent hours looking for solutions – I have not yet had the codes read, my plan is to go rent a code reader after work today. I did unplug my pos and neg battery terminals on my car before leaving for work today @ 6AM.
Car Info: 2008 Lancer DE
**No know issues prior to this.
How screwed am I, ANY IDEAS???????????
Thanks in advance,
Sunny T
So here it is - I was installing fog lights in my car, I went to cut a hole in my firewall to send the power for the switch into my car, and in my utmost stupidity, I used a knife and I heard the fuse box do a fast-paced clicking and I immediately stopped (and the immediately went into panic mode). Raging with anxiety, I jumped into the car and when I turned the key the car started, but puttered and turned off (super-panic mode). I took off the firewall grommet and saw the sliced wires – I sliced the thick red wire (prob 8 gauge) and another thin red wire with black and silver lines/dashes. I then sealed them with electrical tape. I then went to turn the car on again, this time while applying gas; the car stayed on but did not sound right at all (engine was louder and the exhaust was putting out excessive (colorless) fumes), I then put the car in reverse and the whole engine looked like as it was seizing, I then quickly turned off the car.
Over the next several hours I check all of the fuses (engine and cabin) and relays (pulled out and switched them around to other, matching ports – still am have the same issue. After multiple starts and letting the car sit there in park for about 5 mins, I was able to engage the car in drive without the engine acting like it was trying to escape from the rest of the car, however, when I drove my car it never left 1st gear (limp mode??). It then puttered and died as I rolled into the driveway. Everything was tested and functional EXCEPT for the outside temp is showing two dashes (- -), the airbag service is showing (on instrument panel and by the hazard lights button). I spent hours looking for solutions – I have not yet had the codes read, my plan is to go rent a code reader after work today. I did unplug my pos and neg battery terminals on my car before leaving for work today @ 6AM.
Car Info: 2008 Lancer DE
**No know issues prior to this.
How screwed am I, ANY IDEAS???????????
Thanks in advance,
Sunny T
#3
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no dont do that, they will find the splice eventually and charge you. I would do your best to repair any of the splices that may have occurred, which it sounds like you did, then i would read the codes and see what it says, you may have shorted a sensor or a module against the chassis (GND) and blew something.
It may take a while to figure out but first things first, replace all fuses and relays that may be bad. good luck.
It may take a while to figure out but first things first, replace all fuses and relays that may be bad. good luck.
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Edit: You should check if you spliced up any wires since you had a knife go through the boot, which in my case happened.
I did the same thing a long time ago. Spliced up about six wires that were in the boot. It's a pita to fix but you have to loosen up the boot on the motor side and glovebox/ecu ect. Pull the harness forward torwards the passenger seat, (I took the seat out to have more access) as much as you can.
Luckily I had a friend that's very experience with electrical stuff. He had an extra old engine harness that we took apart to color match the ones I had messed up. We ended up soddering and heat shrinking them together. Hope that helps a little.
I did the same thing a long time ago. Spliced up about six wires that were in the boot. It's a pita to fix but you have to loosen up the boot on the motor side and glovebox/ecu ect. Pull the harness forward torwards the passenger seat, (I took the seat out to have more access) as much as you can.
Luckily I had a friend that's very experience with electrical stuff. He had an extra old engine harness that we took apart to color match the ones I had messed up. We ended up soddering and heat shrinking them together. Hope that helps a little.
Last edited by GG_EVO_IX; Aug 27, 2012 at 11:39 AM.
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no dont do that, they will find the splice eventually and charge you. I would do your best to repair any of the splices that may have occurred, which it sounds like you did, then i would read the codes and see what it says, you may have shorted a sensor or a module against the chassis (GND) and blew something.
It may take a while to figure out but first things first, replace all fuses and relays that may be bad. good luck.
It may take a while to figure out but first things first, replace all fuses and relays that may be bad. good luck.
Thanks for the commetns
#6
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You say you already checked all the fuses...
Swap similar relays to see if the problem 'moves' (i.e. swapped the horn and ECU relay. Now engine runs fine - horn doesn't work)
But really, the slice and inadvertent ground doesn't generally 'blow' a relay. It will play havoc with the ECU however. Can you swap out the ECU with a buddy to see if everything is suddenly okay/fixes the problem?
But fix the wires properly (like stated above) first.
Swap similar relays to see if the problem 'moves' (i.e. swapped the horn and ECU relay. Now engine runs fine - horn doesn't work)
But really, the slice and inadvertent ground doesn't generally 'blow' a relay. It will play havoc with the ECU however. Can you swap out the ECU with a buddy to see if everything is suddenly okay/fixes the problem?
But fix the wires properly (like stated above) first.
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#8
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no dont do that, they will find the splice eventually and charge you. I would do your best to repair any of the splices that may have occurred, which it sounds like you did, then i would read the codes and see what it says, you may have shorted a sensor or a module against the chassis (GND) and blew something.
It may take a while to figure out but first things first, replace all fuses and relays that may be bad. good luck.
It may take a while to figure out but first things first, replace all fuses and relays that may be bad. good luck.
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Sorry, I did not specify - I DO have a CEL (that was not there prior to me cutting the wires in the firewall).
So I did a few test with the OBD II, here are the codes I found:
My first read (after plugging my battery back in):
P0113
P0101
P0103
P1253
P1241
U0100 (this may because I pulled the fuses for the ECU)
P0113 P/D
PO103 P/D
P0453 P/D
P1235 P/D
P1241 P/D
P0143 P/D
Then I got these right after clearing the codes:
P0112
P0101
P01235
P0113 P/D
P0101 P/D
PO453 P/D
P1253 p/D
I took a closer look at the wires I cut in the firewall. nothing was completely cut; the red 8/10 gauge wire was cut about 3/4, but i taped it back up pretty tight. The other wire was the red with a black line and silver dashes that was not really cut, the wire jacket was just pulled back (i think); I may have traced this wire back and I have a strong reason to believe it goes to the fuel pump. The reason i think this is because the way my car fits this description, also, almost everything else is functional (from what i can see/tell). But then again - I REALLY HAVE NO CLUE! Maybe I should just break down and go to the stealership ???? Your comments/help/advice are much appreciated
So I did a few test with the OBD II, here are the codes I found:
My first read (after plugging my battery back in):
P0113
P0101
P0103
P1253
P1241
U0100 (this may because I pulled the fuses for the ECU)
P0113 P/D
PO103 P/D
P0453 P/D
P1235 P/D
P1241 P/D
P0143 P/D
Then I got these right after clearing the codes:
P0112
P0101
P01235
P0113 P/D
P0101 P/D
PO453 P/D
P1253 p/D
I took a closer look at the wires I cut in the firewall. nothing was completely cut; the red 8/10 gauge wire was cut about 3/4, but i taped it back up pretty tight. The other wire was the red with a black line and silver dashes that was not really cut, the wire jacket was just pulled back (i think); I may have traced this wire back and I have a strong reason to believe it goes to the fuel pump. The reason i think this is because the way my car fits this description, also, almost everything else is functional (from what i can see/tell). But then again - I REALLY HAVE NO CLUE! Maybe I should just break down and go to the stealership ???? Your comments/help/advice are much appreciated
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I DO still have airbag light showing and the Outside temp is not showing (just shows as --). I tested the fuel pump relay by switching it with the high beams and after switching, everything seems to be normal.
Anyone thing I could have burned up the the entire fuel pump line? I have a multimeter - anyone know what it should read out? Lastly, if I do a multimeter test to the relay port itself, what should I look for/what ports should i test to get a reading (of the 4 slots there are for the relay to plug into)?
I really appreciate everyone's time!!!!!!
Anyone thing I could have burned up the the entire fuel pump line? I have a multimeter - anyone know what it should read out? Lastly, if I do a multimeter test to the relay port itself, what should I look for/what ports should i test to get a reading (of the 4 slots there are for the relay to plug into)?
I really appreciate everyone's time!!!!!!
#13
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In my opinion its not your fuel pump. I am really leaning towards you burnt your ECU. seems to me like your chasing a ghost. you might need to bring it in and let them look at it. If for nothing else to tell you for sure what is wrong with the car. Believe me I hate having other people work on my car but this one seems like something is burnt up.
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In my opinion its not your fuel pump. I am really leaning towards you burnt your ECU. seems to me like your chasing a ghost. you might need to bring it in and let them look at it. If for nothing else to tell you for sure what is wrong with the car. Believe me I hate having other people work on my car but this one seems like something is burnt up.
Others - please advise