HID Help and YES I've Searched
 

Hey guys, i purchased my HID kit today and I also purchased a relay harness, I told him i need the one for DRLs, so anyways, I have installed everything and everything works, however, when the car is on and the lights are off, the hids dont flicker but they make weird sound, also when the lights are on and the car is turned on the hids work, but when you turn the lights off and than on, they dont come back on ... any ideas ??????? ... so pretty much my only solution at this moment is to keep the lights on all the time, but what is the point of the relay harness than, I can do the samething (keeping them on) without the harness

here are some pics of the harness

https://i445.photobucket.com/albums/...1005091918.jpg

https://i445.photobucket.com/albums/...005091919a.jpg

https://i445.photobucket.com/albums/...005091919b.jpg

Taking the trouble shooting part first.... I have heard this before. I suggest you keep your HIDs in the on position. Because if it is what I think it is, you dont want that. What you do is put the kit in the off position while the car is running so you can hear the sound again. If it sounds like a constant zapping sound, then bend down and take a look at the HID bulb itself and see if you can see it glowing faintly. If it is glowing, or arcing. Then it means something in your wiring set it isnt right. It could be shorting. And that will kill the life of your bulb. It may be how it was hooked up, or it can be the hardware. If you bought it from someone, who also has the same kit, try to see if you can mirror his install.

Getting to the question about what a Relay should do, and what a DRL fix (CANBUS FIX) should do are important to understand. With some HID kits, its possible that you can get away with just using one, (with side effects). but to be honest with our Lancer situation , you need both.

I am no wize, but I have trouble shooted enough kits to see the common issue. Where someone buys a kit and it only comes with a Relay, A Relay is good because it will reduce harsh ignition process when you start your car. Why? when you run a Relay, you are basically using the battery to stabilize the voltage of your hid it. So if you turn off your car, (head light switch on) and then you start your car again. Your HID kit should not flicker at all. When I was running without a Relay and just the CanBus fix, I found that it would flicker because the available power is coming from car electrical system which is a slave to alternator power no matter how you look at it.

Move to the CanBus fix, my understanding of it is that it acts as a mini capacitor, but its main purpose is to supply a constant flow of power to your HID it. The reason for this is because, our Halogen bulbs run on 55watt power and they have the ability to run at less power when switched into the DRL position. Because most hid kits run on just 35 watts, your kit will draw 35 watts to power the kit, but if you switch your car to the DRL position, the power input drops below what the HIDkit is designed to operate at. So this is what represents the flickering that everyone reports. When you have a Canbus fix in there it evens things out so that the their is a steady flow of power to your HID kit. And since it also kinda acts as a capacitor in a way, even if there was a drop in power for an instant, there would be enough juice feeding the system to prevent a flicker. To kinda show you what I mean about that capacitor effect.

If you were just running on a Canbus Fix, what you would find might happen is your HIDs

1) may not ignite 100% of the time, so one out of 50 cranks, you might find one or both of your hids may not ignite, why? because the power available at the time of start up just wasnt enough to ignite the bulb and or the HID kit may detect something is wrong and shut it self down to prevent harm to the bulb or the kit itself. (A well designed HID kit will have this built into itself)

2) When starting your car, Your HIDs will ignite only when the headlights are in the on position, you may find you need to keep your HIDs in the on position or it will never come on even after start up and the car is just running. (this is the capacitor effect not allowing enough power to ignite the kit, you will have to turn off your car, and then crank it again to turn it on)

3) You may find that if its in the on position and you switch it to DRL or off, the HID kit remains on, this is because the CANBUS fix is doing its job and providing stable power flow to the kit to ensure it remains on.

Getting to the end point, its important that you run with both a good relay and a good canbus fix. Where you may run into problems is if you bought an HID kit that runs at 55watts which is considered by some overkill. If you have a Canbus fix for it, it may not operate properly. Its important that you run both, because each act as an additional layer of protection for your headlight harness.

In your situation , I suggest you contact the seller and see what he can do for you, or if he will help you. If not , what you might want to do is find out if someone around you has a different relay or canbus fix and have them let you try it out to see if it fixes your problem.

Worse case scenario, the Xenon Depot Kit I know works 100% because I and a few guys in our local car club has it. If you want to stick with your kit, you can message Steve from XenonDepot to see if you can grab his Relay and Canbus Fix kits.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ve...-save-big.html
PM me if you need anymore help

Your DRL's are causing the issue. Although your HID's are not visibly flickering, the DRL signal is still being sent to your HID ballast & bulbs, which is probably why you hear this 'weird' sound. This will cause damage to your HID kit. Some people "bypass" the DRL's by running their Low Beams ON 24/7 or by splicing/cutting wires. I provide a DRL Bypass w/ Relay Harness that simply eliminates the DRL's, thus allowing you to safely use your HID kit.

The DRL Bypass will simply eliminate the DRL's. Therefore, no flickering is present when running HID's. The DRL Bypass w/ Relay Harness is completely Plug & Play and requires no splicing whatsoever with the OEM wiring, thus saving you from any warranty issues and/or headaches. With the bypass properly installed, all lights will assume normal function:

Position 0 - All lights OFF, DRL's OFF
Position 1 - Parking lights ON, DRL's OFF
Position 2 - Low beams ON, Parking lights ON


For more info: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sa...y-harness.html

yea had the same problem before....

you can get the drl bypass

or

you could swap the drls to the fogs

or

just leave ur lights on always untill you find a solution.


just dont play around with it like it is now... it will kill the ballast... trust me... i learned the hard way...

theres a harness u can buy that gives the hids power from ut battery and then u just gotta hook up the relay thats an extra 10 buks or u can buy a harness with the relay already in it ... ill post links later

is the drl bypass samething as Canbus Fix ??? okay, but do I still need the harness that I purchased or should I return it ? or I need both that harness and the drl bypass (canbus Fix) ?

thanks for helping guys

ur gona need both unless the bypass is incorperated into the harness one company has a harness with the resistors in it

okay thanks alot ... i'll keep you guys updated ... and by always having my lights in on mode, will that hurt anything ? (except the hid life)

Nope, just ballast and bulb life..

keeping it on will just decrease the lifespan of the ballast n bulb like it would regularly.... but by having it off.. the ballast will be constantly struggling to work with the drls... and the ballast will die ALOT earlier if u keep that up. if you have a relay harness installed, u can hear the relay going nuts... just keep them on, safest way untill u find a fix

okay so I went to the guy where I bought the kit, and i told him i need the DRL bypass harness, he looked at me like i was an idiot ... all he said is that you dont need anything, im like aiight this guy doesnt know jack s**t ... but he told me to go to another guy and he can help me out ... long story short ... I went to that guy and I told him I wanna bypass the DRL but I dont want to cut no wires (and he also never heard of a harness for DRLs) anyways, but what he said he can do, is connect my headlight to my parking lights... that way when I turn my parking lights on the headlight would turn on ... but wouldnt that still turn on the DRLs ??? he said No it wont, since the headlight are not connected or something, and he said that doesnt require any cutting and he can do it for $40 ... what you guys think ??

1) I would ask for a refund / return the kit. if possible.
2) If your going to pay 40 dollars, then make him guarantee it for 30 days. Your kit should not buzz and it should function normal. Normal is, when you start your car, your kit should ignite.
3) If he cant do that, I suggest you sell your kit and get one that has been proven to work in your vehicle with good results. There are different brands to choose from. I suggest you ask questions of what everything thinks, and then pull the trigger. again I have my preference as well.

Cheers :)

www.carhidkits.com here u go buddy that will take care of everything

thats what I have the "Digital HID Kit Slim Ballasts" mine is exactly the same and the "HID Kit Wire Relay Harness" is exactly the same as well