SST oil/filter change. Do you flush out old fluid with mineral oil?
#1
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SST oil/filter change. Do you flush out old fluid with mineral oil?
During my next Engine oil change I am going to change my tranny fluid and install a SSP inline filter so I can just toss out the factory filter but I remember reading a post from kozmic27 a while back about flushing out the system with mineral oil before filling with new tranny fluid. Has anyone else done this? Here is the post from Kozmic27
"The factory service manual calls for you to flush the transmission. The way you do this is by servicing it with mineral oil. and operating the car with all 4 wheels off the ground in each gear for a couple minutes. You then drain the mineral oil. Repeat until the mineral oil drains out clear. I also recomend while doing so that you remove the cooler line from the bottom port, and drain this as well."
I want to make sure I get all the old oil out since it has been about 45,000km (28,000miles) since the tranny fluid was last changed. A lot of it has been highway with me doing a 20,000km (12,500mile) road trip from Vancouver Canada to Key West and back, but there has been a lot of hard driving on it as well.
Let me know if you have done this. I do trust what Kozmic27 does since he is one of the few up their with their SST knowledge but I want to see if anyone else has done this as well.
"The factory service manual calls for you to flush the transmission. The way you do this is by servicing it with mineral oil. and operating the car with all 4 wheels off the ground in each gear for a couple minutes. You then drain the mineral oil. Repeat until the mineral oil drains out clear. I also recomend while doing so that you remove the cooler line from the bottom port, and drain this as well."
I want to make sure I get all the old oil out since it has been about 45,000km (28,000miles) since the tranny fluid was last changed. A lot of it has been highway with me doing a 20,000km (12,500mile) road trip from Vancouver Canada to Key West and back, but there has been a lot of hard driving on it as well.
Let me know if you have done this. I do trust what Kozmic27 does since he is one of the few up their with their SST knowledge but I want to see if anyone else has done this as well.
#2
I can't say for sure, but I recall that while flushing/cycling of fluid is stated, it is to be done with the transmission fluid (i.e., NOT your regular mineral oil). I'm overseas right now so I don't have access to my service manual, but you should be able to find a copy somewhere on here.
EDIT: Actually, I found a copy of the service manual. Page 22C-329 says to fill it up with Mitsubhishi genuine Dia-Queen SSTF-I (approximately 5.8 quarts). Tighten the plugs and new air clearner element, then run the engine and shift the lever to every position. Repeat the steps until oil fouling is gone. So, no using just regular mineral oil IMO.
EDIT: Actually, I found a copy of the service manual. Page 22C-329 says to fill it up with Mitsubhishi genuine Dia-Queen SSTF-I (approximately 5.8 quarts). Tighten the plugs and new air clearner element, then run the engine and shift the lever to every position. Repeat the steps until oil fouling is gone. So, no using just regular mineral oil IMO.
Last edited by a5un; Dec 24, 2011 at 08:54 AM.
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I can't say for sure, but I recall that while flushing/cycling of fluid is stated, it is to be done with the transmission fluid (i.e., NOT your regular mineral oil). I'm overseas right now so I don't have access to my service manual, but you should be able to find a copy somewhere on here.
EDIT: Actually, I found a copy of the service manual. Page 22C-329 says to fill it up with Mitsubhishi genuine Dia-Queen SSTF-I (approximately 5.8 quarts). Tighten the plugs and new air clearner element, then run the engine and shift the lever to every position. Repeat the steps until oil fouling is gone. So, no using just regular mineral oil IMO.
EDIT: Actually, I found a copy of the service manual. Page 22C-329 says to fill it up with Mitsubhishi genuine Dia-Queen SSTF-I (approximately 5.8 quarts). Tighten the plugs and new air clearner element, then run the engine and shift the lever to every position. Repeat the steps until oil fouling is gone. So, no using just regular mineral oil IMO.
#4
I may just buy some paint filters and filter out the oil that is in it and then pour it back in and use it to help flush out anything.
Last edited by Caino; Jun 17, 2015 at 09:24 PM. Reason: Clarification
#6
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The only time it should need to be flushed out is if it has fluid contamination. Your best bet is to put it on a reasonable service interval like 24k miles, use only genuine C0002610 fluid, and don't worry about it. Flushing the 2011 and up transmissions (the ones with 2 drain plugs instead of 3) with any kind of fluid is not recommended because of the amount of fluid left in the transmission.
If you must flush the transmission out, you can do so with less than a full service if you do so with wheels off the ground so there is no load on the transmission. 4 Liters is enough to operate the transmission for the purpose of running it with the wheels off the ground and then changing the fluid right away.
If you are doing this, it is best to bypass the cooler. The cooler can be flushed out separately. This way whatever is in the cooler isn't diluting your flush fluid.
If you must flush the transmission out, you can do so with less than a full service if you do so with wheels off the ground so there is no load on the transmission. 4 Liters is enough to operate the transmission for the purpose of running it with the wheels off the ground and then changing the fluid right away.
If you are doing this, it is best to bypass the cooler. The cooler can be flushed out separately. This way whatever is in the cooler isn't diluting your flush fluid.
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