Terror Rising

iTrader: (26)

You can get the brake hose at the link below. I got 12' of it but it's still sitting around waiting to get put on so I can't tell you exactly. There aren't many great options for mounting that I was able to come across on the interweb. Plenty of ducts & inlets exist for 3" but not so much for 2". My plan is to block off the two front openings on the bumper with aluminum plate and attach standard 2" pipe to those for the hose mounts. Obviously this would only work with a relocated oil cooler but that was part of my reasoning for moving it up front.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3631

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

yea i'm just gonna zip tie like amn suazo. is there any function difference otherwise?

amn_suazo

iTrader: (1)

Can't remember the exact website, but they all look pretty similar, 12' was overkill but I believe that was my only option. Doesn't hurt to have extra laying around. I kinda just shoved the tubes around stuff and zip tied them out the way. Eventually I'll relocate the oil cooler and use some naca ducts in the front

jedibow

iTrader: (1)

PM me killer

jedibow

iTrader: (1)

can you use a pvc reducer? or even an air intake reducing coupler to reduce from 3" to 2"?

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

haven't done this yet, dreading doing the work a bit but... i'll probably buy the hose, cut the lengths, bolt the stuff up and get it connected soon.

i'm curious if you guys have run into any issues as far as just debris collecting in the pipes, anything like that?

the binary eng ducts are 2" correct? honestly i'm not making big power i'd be surprised if i need more than that here for HPDEs. i'm not even sure if i need it for HPDE but i've had some bad braking experiences.

also - you said you bought 12ft - how much did you end up using? is 6ft not going to cut it?

Terror Rising

iTrader: (26)

I'm going to end up using ~8' total. That will leave me with one extra hose in case something happens out of the original 12'. Yes, the binary ducts are 2". I don't know what brake pads you're using but my ~325hp car and ST43s melted all of the dust seals in my brakes in one HPDE. I also had them smoking while my car was being double driven at an auto-x. Titanium shims are on the car now and the ducts are about to be. I wish I went with the Racing Brake stainless vented pistons for the Brembos when I rebuilt them but I didn't know about them back then.

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

good idea, makes sense. i will be using st43s for track, but damn your situation sounds unusual. i've got the ti shims and vented pistons with high temp seals as mentioned but i've never heard of anyone melting their brakes in one HPDE. which track was this on?

Terror Rising

iTrader: (26)

Harris Hill Raceway was where I did it and I agree it's unusual. Another unusual thing is that my brakes emit the tiniest squeak when driving, but it's not continuous and can only be heard at lower speeds. Tap the brakes and it goes away for a second then comes back. It only does it with the ST43s in and it's done it on two different sets of rotors now both before and after rebuilding the Brembos. The car hasn't been raced in a couple years but I'm trying to get back to it and need to ultimately figure out why it does this. It's super annoying.

Ayoustin

iTrader: (2)

Driving style is also a large factor in this too.

Honestly, 2" hoses don't do too much in terms of cooling after I've talked to a couple guys about it. Most subi guys run 3" hoses too. After I get my winter projects done it's on my list to try and stuff 2.5" or 3" hoses in to replace my 2" hoses. A 2.5" hose provides 56% percent more air and a 3" hose provides 125% more air than a 2" hose so either of those should make a decent difference in cooling.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

ST43s are pretty crazy pads. They dont seem to give up and sounds like the rest of the system is likely to melt before they do.

Im getting more and more push to finish the brake ducts for my uprights so its moving up to the top of my priority list. Theyre designed now, just finding that they are a pain to make trying to get the 2.5" ducts to fit.

Terror Rising

iTrader: (26)

I know the 2" is significantly less flow than a 3" but that's what I have at the moment. If I didn't quit my job a couple months ago I would already be rocking your uprights and asking for those ducts with them but I would rather stay "retired" for as long as possible. Since I know the flow isn't the best with the 2" I'm putting some effort into making sure the inlets can build some pressure.

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

i'm hoping the system i've put together will work effectively enough to cool the brakes, even with the 2" hosing. i think going x brakes along with the significantly larger rotor will help as a heat sink and work to dissipate heat better.

the squeak you mentioned is interesting. what shims are these on?

i had an soft brake issue on my car which i believe caused my brakes to overheat. the titanium shim i was using was not flush against the back of the pad, as there was a small bump on it, and i believe this acted as a spring where, when i got on my brakes, it would bend the shim and cause soft brakes, and when i got off the brakes, the shim would straighten and press the pad further against the rotor.

i've gotten redesigned shims since then, and probably not your situation, but just pointing out something very minor caused a very frustrating issue

Terror Rising

iTrader: (26)

I honestly can't remember where I got the shims from but the noise was apparent even on factory shims. That's the frustrating part. I've rebuilt the Brembos, changed shims, changed rotors, bled numerous times, keep the sliders clean and lubed and still can't get rid of it other than taking the ST43s out which I will not accept. So, it's added to the list of "racecar noises" that make it embarrassing to drive on the street.

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

that's rough, not sure what it could be, i haven't heard of the st43s being persistently noisy. maybe a bad batch? idk