that looks sweet, are some of my old parts making it onto that car? i ran the for rs on my stock turbo and my red and had 0 problems with it ever. never had any bucking or anything. good luck with the build

 

My Forge RS was marginal for daily driving, but it was ok on my stock turbo at the track. But after the 2.3L and the GT3076 it was a no-go at the track. Trying to balance part throttle going up some hills/corners the car would buck itself right out of control.

I've found the APS valve to be flawless. Mellon runs it at stupid boost levels I believe as well. I run 30 psi on it.

Don't worry too much about it, BOV's are quick and easy to change out. If the Forge works on your setup - sweet. If not, try an APS. The APS is flutter resistant because it uses a solid brass piston instead of a "plate and pin" piston. The solid piston has much more mass (compared to plate and pin style) and thus acts as a "mass damper" to smooth flutter/bucking of the BOV. And that is WIN!

Should be a super fun track mobile.

 

looks like a good start....in to see how the cage will come out

 

(sorry, iphone pictures tonight)

so tonight we got a bit more done. denver, richard and jim tore the remainder of the interior out.


denver and richard then took the angle grinder and started knocking off all the extra brackets everywhere inside and out. still a few of them left.


we decided to take the sunroof out and denvers going to tig weld a thin piece of sheet metal in place of it until we get a carbon roof. (it weighs like 50 lbs)



a number of brackets were removed in the engine bay as well. denver cleaned up a bunch of the wiring harness they had been demolished by the previous owner.


i got the oil pump, water pump, and various engine stuff put on, and made note of all the missing bolts i need to get

 

what is this thing time attack? .. i keep hearin about it.....

 

whatever, you of all people should know

(and just in case your serious, we will be doing NASA TTU class locally, and will try to get out to redline event if there are any in a reasonable distance)

 

it is UNBELIEVEABLE how much added weight is behind the dash. The dash support "TABS" are made from about 10" of bent 2x 1/4" steel plate! and there is 4 of them!

The angle grinder make quick work of the removal

 

Haha, i hear that, you'd thing the dash weighed 1000lbs with that kind of support. Has anyone tried that "pistonless" Bov yet? I haven't seen or heard any racing applications.

 

Can't wait to see how it turns out. I would also agree that APS is a better option than the Forge RS. What is your target weight for this car?

 

still rocking the APS twin to 45psi

 

of all the BOVs on all the cars i've tuned/wrenched on, the Forge RS and the APS twin are my two favorites (those are the two i always recommend). i've run the Forge on my daily driver for years now, and used it at the track quite a bit and never had any issues with it. obviously i've never tried the APS on the track, but if the forge RS gives me problems above the 35psi mark i'll be sure to switch over to the APS.

 

target weight for the car is as light as we can make it. a friend/customers car (mark berry aka EVO8RA) weighs in at 23xx pounds and has to add 80+pounds of lead ballast to reach the min weight restrictions. this is an autocross evo thats completely gutted, running a 4 gal fuel cell, 15" wheels, small brakes and no cage. we are going to be around the same weight as far as the chassis is concerned, (gutted and speedholed doors, stripped, no brackets, dash, etc). but we are going to have an extensive cage which will weight, 18" wheels and big brakes, a bigger fuel cell, and fire supression equipment. there are a few areas we will be lighter (rotating assembly, lighter crank, and once we get the quartermaster clutch a few pounds there), aftermarket turbos are actually lighter then the stock stuff with all the cast parts, but we have a much heavier intercooler, a full size radiator, etc etc...

all in all i would be happy if we hit 2650 pounds. thats about 500 pounds off.

 

Nice! When I gutted my car, stripped doors, no dash, pretty much word for word what you said, cage, fire, same seats, lexan windows, but OEM fuel cell, etc - She weighs right at 3000. This is with the stock motor/turbo/clutch and emissions equipment. But even with all that, where you getting 350#'s from?

 

More weight can definitely come off. I need to weigh my car, but I expect it to be in the 2850-2900 range. Parts like CF driveshaft, CF roof, removal of emissions equipment, light weight parts etc. CBRD's car weighed right around 3000 pounds and we are sure without a question mine is a good bit lighter. I'm still waiting for it to be put on the scales, watch it be 2999.

2650 would be incredibly hard to acheive.

 

when you've helped build a 23xx lb evo, you'll know where the weight can come from


edit* were going to corner balance the car before next weekend so i'll give you a round 1 weight. this will be with no cage, and only about half of the effort put into taking weight out. many of the light weight parts have not been purchased yet, and we are not cutting the doors apart until the cage goes in.