Kidloco51

iTrader: (32)

Just a real quick video. Im gonna do a whole write up tonight on the dyno session and the next steps with car. Enjoy. (PS Private Closed road)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Mx2T2kHGmg

mayberry

iTrader: (43)

That thing sure does sound healthy. Congratulations on a job well done.

getsideways

iTrader: (18)

YAY for the reckless.

Kidloco51

iTrader: (32)

I had a chance to get the car on the dyno this friday. I headed over to ES Tuning in Tucson, AZ (I am located in Las Cruces, NM). It was good to get the car on the dyno and learn some weak points and things I need to do to the car. We were limited at 26psi max on the turbo. My tuner wasn't able to get the boost controller to go anymore (Blitz electronic boost controller, not sure what was going on with it). His tune was very conservative (this is a track only car) which I like. I am planning on racing the car at 26 psi but I def. wanna see what kinda HP the motor will make on 30+psi.

Things learned:

I need proper crankcase ventilation. A new catch can and lines are in the works.
I am ditching the Blitz boost controller and going with a manual unit.
I am gonna start saving for a bigger TB and a Sparktech unit

My Tuner (Evan Smith) is going to be coming in town in a few weeks so I am gonna try and get the issues sorted and see what the engine can do on higher boost.

Mods:
Fuel E-85
MA Performance 2.0L LR (9:1), balance shaft delete
AMS oil pan
Ported and polished head
Stock valves
GSC Beehives
GSC s2 cams
Gates T.B.
Full Race Pro-Stock Manifold
MA Performance EF3 Turbo w/anti surge
Invida o2
JIC TBE w/test pipe
Synapse DV
JMF Intake w/Perrin filter
Nisei full pipe kit
ETS 3.5 intercooler
Stock T.B.
Stock IM

Uncorrected # where 411 hp/ 346 tq @26psi


Please note the boost listed on plot in incorrect

RJones

iTrader: (5)

Just curious, why go with an EBC or MBC over ecu controlled boost?

jid2

iTrader: (62)

- Welcome to the crank case high pressure club.
- Coil on plugs = good. The Spoolin Up kit solved my misfire issue I had on the stock coils.
- I still run a stock TB, and based on talks with Aaron at English I'm cool with it at 500whp.
- I run a MBC because I got tired of trying to learn every stock ECU trick and constantly writing xml etc. But it's nice, as is speed density which I also haven't done yet.


- What AFR are you shooting for. I've been running 11.8 on E85 at the track for 3 years now. I think it's a safe place, 12.0 is a touch risky I think.
- Do you know what your timing is set at for peak torque and out the top?
- Have you seen false knock from the built motor?

getsideways

iTrader: (18)

The green line in your chart is that an accurate representation of the boost curve, If so something is odd there wouldnt you say?

Have you gone through all the preload checks on the actuator?

MJ23FE

iTrader: (3)

looks like the boost curve and the torque curve match up pretty well.

-Jalal

Kidloco51

iTrader: (32)

Quick question. I was getting a weird puff off smoke (assuming oil) on the dyno located at the BOV/Intake when it hits boost. Without proper crank ventilation would this be oil being blown out? Would it be venting out of my open port on the Synapse?

As far as AFR's I left that to the tuner. I know he was trying to be conservative with the tune due to it being a track car. I really suck at understanding the whole tuning fuel thing. I def. need to bone up and learn more about it for future reference. I will ask tuner what timing was set at. My tuner stated he there were not any issues with knock.

I know the tuner was having issues with the boost reading but does that translate to a affected boost curve on chart? I will say that it def. has more lag than I was expecting. I have not gone through all the preload checks. I am pulling the turbo off soon so I will def. take time and do it. Is there a good place you can point me to find info on how to do it.

Thanks for all the help guys. This is my first turbo car build and I have a ton to learn.

Tim

esevo

iTrader: (11)

AFR's where set for 11.8-.9 tapering down to 11.3-.4's at high rpm to help with temps on the nasty 5th gear long straights. 12.0's can make a little more power but not nearly as safe.

Why extra rich? In Phoenix (primarily AZ tracks are here.) The temps have seen 128* before on track, fuel is our best source of thermal control.

16-17* by redline. I know the car could see a few more, but again its a road race car not drag

This motor was surprisingly quiet. No knock filter map needed an adjustment for any false/phantom knock.

I recommend (here for our heat especailly) MBC as they always tend to work! I have seen countless EBC/ECU based boost controllers fail, or not boost high enough/or too high. A good in cockpit hallman mbc will always work and I have yet to see one go





The green line is accurate however it was a 15 foot line going to the manifold. (4-5 psi drop) I'm too was surprised at the curve and think its is either a choke point in the inlet system, or the EBC. More than likely the EBC, as it was maxed and not hitting the boost we were expecting.

As for the puff of smoke Rick and I thought it was the oil return line leaking on to the DP...

This car moves very well, and the build in person is immaculate. Tim (aka KidLoco51) has built a very solid and beautiful performer. Who hasn't half-assed a thing! The little things will be fixed and Im sure with an extra 6-8 psi and a full kill mode tune we could be in the 500's.

BTW the correction factor for us was 10%(1.103) at 70* and 2940 elevation approximately 5200 ft-DA

-Evan Smith

getsideways

iTrader: (18)

Looks rather laggy to me too thats why i asked, im using the EF3/2.0 as well and get 200WHP around 3800-3900.

Initially the actuator required a lot of adjusting to get it right, If your serious about not wanting to run more pressure around the track then high preload on an 18PSI unit will work better for you.

On the same billet actuator you have i ended up having to remove the stopper nut and tightening the turnbuckle until getting about half an eyelet of preload. that got me about 26-27PSI in 3rd but got considerably higher by gear 29-30 by 5th.

Theres a lot more info in the EF results dyno thread but its scattered between pages, i believe theres a how-to on the WG preload somewhere if you have never messed with that before ill look for it if you arent sure.

EVOizmm

iTrader: (10)

Is there a good way decrease that crankcase pressure on something with this much HP? Out of all the build threads around here I havent seen anyone really cover this.

blackenedwings

Cool stuff man, I think you will have this really dialed in with a few more tweaks. Definitely go to the MBC, for a car that sees a lot of road race track time its pretty invaluable. I adjust my boost at the track periodically, not just for weather variations like rain, but also my first practice session I generally turn the wick down a notch. Because you are running in AZ, its VERY good that you have a tuner familiar with the environment who is willing to tune for reliability/safety rather than high numbers. When the ambient temps are in the 120+ range, it does a number on a turbo car. E85 alone will help, but conservative fueling will drop those temps a ton. I'm fortunate that I'll rarely hit ambient temps over 100* out here, but humidity is often around 100%...

I'm getting excited about the upcoming season... when is your first event Kidloco?

wingless

iTrader: (15)

Maxed out EBC? Car looks awesome!

jid2

iTrader: (62)

It took me 3 times to figure out something that works, and what I have isn't what I would do if I started from scratch. But a couple big breather lines and a high flow catch can will do it.

Drilling the extra port at the end of the valve cover was a bad idea for me. It short circuits the baffling in the cover and provides a direct path to fill the catch can with oil. So now I have an oil drain line from the catch can back into the dip stick. I would use the two stock locations with oversized ports next time and not add the one I did.

1st version, lines too small in diameter.



2nd version. Should not have added the port on the rear.





3rd version.

Includes drain to dip stick, and rag over filter because if the can gets enough oil in it it starts spraying all over the engine bay.