MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

I thought the same, that seat looks like its sitting on the floor pan but as you noted, its just a small seat

Hey, did you notice anything diff w/the chassis (stiffness?). I noticed it right off. Not to mention a creak or two when entering a driveway

killerpenguin21

iTrader: (20)

yes, the car is definitely stiffer overall.

lvtubasor

How heavy are there 6 point bolt on cages?

Solenoid

AP roll bar FS here:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sa...ront-cage.html

ReidFletcher

iTrader: (1)

For my autopower bar we installed it as such. My car has a sunroof and installed

I used 1/4" steel cut per diagram on first page but bent to 43* on a cnc bender.

Removed all the interior pieces and fitted the bar into the car to line up the plates. And sanded/removed sound deadning and seam sealer. Marked the holes and drilled them on the press. We then placed one plate under the car with the jack and pounded in the ridges of the floor to create alittle clearance for the headliner and an easier time welding the plates to the floor







Once we had the plates and the bar lined up straight we tacked the plates in.



Welding the 1/4" plates the floor was pretty difficult considering gauge of flooring vs. 1/4". I would recommend 3/16" plates to ease welding.


After the paint dried we reinstalled the bar, bolted it down snug then drill holes for the rear supports. We decided that installing the bar over the carpet but after removing all the fuzz from the bottom of the carpet making it as thin as possible was the cleanest way to install the bar. We backed the floor plates with a 1/4" steel plate under the car, sandwiching the thin floor pan. We did this in the idea that in a high load side impact that it wouldn't rip the bar out of the floor sideways.




I now have Sparco Evo 2US for the drivers and an Sparco Evo2. The Sparco Grids were not comfortable by any means; they are meant for a car where you can mount the seat very low to the floor. Ive figured out that the evo considering the steering wheel, and pedals position makes it very weird to put seats in that are bearably comfortable to drive around town without right leg/hip pain; for me atleast this has been an issue.

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

^^^Nice job there

1/4 plate is very thick. No sunroof in mine & I still have the liner, I used .125 plate which I thought I could bend myself. Had to take it to a shop Mine is just bolted in

Thanks for adding to the thread

Bet you feel a diff in chassis stiffness. I know I did

ReidFletcher

iTrader: (1)

Yup it stiffens up the chassis immensely! Just jacking up the car from one side or pulling into driveways is when you really realize how much stiffer the car is. I have 26mm F/R sways and Weir 12 plate diff a as far as oversteer inducing parts go. Now with the roll bar on street tires, throttle induced oversteer is quite fun and you can drive the car with the throttle just about anywhere. Not quite the same case on real tires but the car is very neutral.

ReidFletcher

iTrader: (1)

What is everyone using to retain the harnesses on the roll bar? My autopower roll bar doesn't have the small metal loop welded to the horizontal tube to retain the harnesses from sliding left and right; I've noticed some of the autopower bars in older posts have this welded on.

Sawdust

There is a proper wrapping method using the proper hardware, HMS has a video that demonstrates it at 2:35 in:
To prevent sliding side-to-side, I used roll bar padding.

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

Im sure the video lays it out. I used the PDF & installed the bar pads as well (its 65 pages so takes about 10 secs to load)

https://www.schrothracing.com/sdocs/...structions.pdf

ReidFletcher

iTrader: (1)

Roll bar padding is a good idea. I've searched high and low to find some kind of basic roll bar clamp to prevent the belts from slipping left and right but everything I've found is not cheap; considering you'd need 4 of them.