GTABurnout

iTrader: (1)

Aluminum will crack easier then a steel fender.

I had good luck on my wifes 9 just take is super slow and use a heat gun to prevent paint flaking

RJones

iTrader: (5)

I actually trimmed the fronts instead of rolling them. That's probably a safer route.

Here are my rears. They're a little more flared than Marshall's. They're also beat up looking because we tried to pull them with no heat at the El Toro Pro in 2012.

griceiv

iTrader: (2)

it's definitely not a show quality job. I haven't done any smoothing or anything so hammer marks are still visible. it does look ok from about 10 feet though. The trick i found for fixing the quarter panel buckling (which will absolutely happen) is to just pound it back out from inside the fender well with a hammer and block of wood.

I don't have any other close up shots of the fender work but there are several shots of the car at different angles here.

once you put the fender roller on the front fenders you'll know why people caution against it. the fender lip is stiffer than the fender mounts so the whole fender flexes instead of rolling just the lip. With lots of patients it can be done but we ended up using a hammer and dolly to stretch the fronts out.

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

Oh duh of course it is. Aluminum is more brittle than steal so that makes perfect sense. I've got a heat gun and have been watching videos on youtube. Rolling fenders doesnt appear too dificult. More about being patient making sure to keep the paint soft with heat and going very very slowly

Yeah Im still up in the air whether my fronts will be rolled vs cut. Thanks for the additional pics though they look good to me. I don't mind the flare; I just dont want them to look wavy.

Hah my car is not a show car by any means. My front bumper is so beat up from repeated smashing of cones and my lip is all scuffed up as the clips now seem to fail on me every auto-x and I come rolling into the pits with my lip dragging like it's my job.

When you are going at the fenders and/or rear quarters with a hammer and dolly how are you protecting the paint? Are you solely hammering from the inside so its not an issue or did you go to town and have them resprayed?

griceiv

iTrader: (2)

the paint is pretty likely to be at least a little damaged with as much stretch that you need to get. the rears I've just done brush on touch up paint, thus the uglyness. fronts were professionally resprayed though.

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

Bummer...looking to get this all down on the cheap. Err I shouldnt say cheap but rather I cant stand spending $ on aesthetics. Anyway, thanks again for the info; I know I've asked a million questions and I really appreciate everyone helping me out. This should be a fun project

GTABurnout

iTrader: (1)

Hows the clearance on the inner of the rear for you now? Also how did you avoid hitting the coilover on the front?

RJones

iTrader: (5)

I'd have to disagree with this statement. I took my time and used lots of heat and was slow with the fender roller, and neither side buckled. However, I do know of a lot of cars with buckled fenders, so maybe it's more common than not.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Its a bit hit or miss on the fenders. The guy who did mine does a ton of them and has been for years. He got mine about 3/4" pulled without and cracked paint but my buddies 05 had a fair amount of paint cracking. Neither of us have had any issues with the fender aluminum cracking.

Not the end of the world though, he just sanded down some edges and fixed with a couple layers of touch up paint.

The rears you can get a good 1/2" pull without any significant pull, but that edge that causes the buckling is just starting to get noticeable.

GTABurnout

iTrader: (1)

I have seen(my car is one) numerous front fenders crack when rolled. By 8 has a crack but my 9 was ok.

Just some thing to keep in mind.

Now can anyone tell me how they are fitting a 275 on a NT03 on the back with out killing the inside of the tire on the lower control arm?

RJones

iTrader: (5)

I shaved some material off the trailing arm because it was rubbing (285/30/18 BFG R1-S). I don't have any issues with the lower control arm though... I don't see how you could.

griceiv

iTrader: (2)

Stretching the tire on a 10.5 wheel reduces the side to side flex of the tire so you don't need as much tire clearance to keep it from rubbing. delrin toe link bushings help also. the tires will still rub a bit at max lateral load.

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

Well, operation fit wide tires has turned into operation ruin my rear quarter panel very quickly, lol...I started out by addressing the e-brake line bracket as well as grinding down the casting flash on the trailing arm. Easy enough

Before:


After:


However on the driverside this happened:

So I spent some time trying to use an EZout which failed unfortunately so I ended up drilling it all out and retapping. No bid deal just frustrating.

Then it was time to use my new fender roller.

Ready to go:



I tried to work carefully and slowly making sure to keep the area warm so I wouln't crack the paint. It started off ok but as I added pressure the paint started to crack and the quarter became wavy. I attempted to smooth it out by carefully rolling it out further and I was able to get a better shape but at the expense of the paint . What starter as a crack turned into some nice chipping. So as of right now my passenger side looks terrible


I then moved onto the driver side and had much better luck. Not sure if my process was improved upon or if I was just luckier but that side came out nice and I didnt crack the paint at all. Now I still dont have the wheels so I have no clue how much more space I need to make so it is most likely a work in progress but I do know I gained clearance from before so thats a plus. This is what the driver side look like so far:



In regards to the bumper bolt, I know some people shave it and relocate it further back and others have gotten away with leaving it alone. Upon looking at it yesterday I had a thought and wanted to run it by your guys. Once again without mocking up the wheel and tire it's tough to say but has anyone tried pushing/ bending the mounting point outward to gain additional space? I snapped a photo so explain. As you can see the attachment point is now crooked where the bumper bolts down. I wonder if I were to apply lots of heat to the bumper and rear quarter in that area and push it outward if it would give me the room I need?

jdmdc2r01

iTrader: (23)

Now can anyone tell me how they are fitting a 275 on a NT03 on the back with out killing the inside of the tire on the lower control arm?[/QUOTE]

I run a 275 NT01 tire but on a 18x10 +30 offset wheel and fits fine no rubbing issues. Rears only rolled, relocated+shaved bumper bolt.
I guess its all about the correct offset/tire/susp setup to make it work.

GTABurnout

iTrader: (1)

Ok looks like what I have done now should be fine. I killed the inside of a 255 on the bolt tab and control arm. I wouldn't be so concerned but I destroyed a good Slick on this bolt.