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275 35R18 Slick on NT03 10.5 stock body Evo

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Old Dec 1, 2014, 07:56 AM
  #91  
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Bumping this up- does anyone have feedback or comments on my idea to push out the mounting tab for the rear bumper?

Also, for the front spacer some are stating a 25mm is needed while others have said a spacer isnt required but will limit steering wheel angle. For those who are using this wheel if you could please list what size spacer you are using as well as tire size and alignment I think that would be helpful.

I know there are other variables like ride height and suspension setup so I'm not looking for an exact answer but I'm guessing most of us have "similar" alignments and are on coils so fitment up front should be relatively similar.
Old Dec 1, 2014, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by heel2toe
Bumping this up- does anyone have feedback or comments on my idea to push out the mounting tab for the rear bumper?
Are you referring to the rear bumper bolt? Not sure what you mean exactly by pushing it out. It should be removed completely by trimming off the brkt. Then relocate the connection further aft by using a nut & bolt or rivet (mine is riveted)
Old Dec 1, 2014, 11:21 AM
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Yes correct the rear bumper bolt. I know that typically people will do exactly what you described grind it down and move it back. I think there are some detailed pics floating around on here. However I was thinking that maybe I could keep the same mount but bend it outward to provide the needed clearance rather than cutting and relocating. Below is what Im talking about:
Attached Thumbnails 275 35R18 Slick on NT03 10.5 stock body Evo-20141102_140746_zps9d71f269.jpg  
Old Dec 1, 2014, 12:50 PM
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I suppose that could work but using a tin snip or Dremel, the removal is pretty basic & the reattachment is quite simple using a rivet or nut & bolt

I see you are still running your rear splash guards. I removed mine & extended the bumper at the bottom by 1" using these alum struts due to tire rubbage

Old Dec 1, 2014, 01:48 PM
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Thanks for your feedback. I will probably end up just trimming it but I figured there is more than one way to skin a cat so I was curious if anyone went that route. I think for a basic roll trimming it is the only option but once you start pulling the fender like I've started to do pushing it outward might provide the additional clearance needed and may also double as improving the appearance since it wont bow out as much.

I like what you did with the bottom of the bumper. I haven't gotten that far yet with my project and the biggest challenge that I have right now is that I don't have the wheels yet so confirming fitment is next to impossible Plus I just put back on my stock suspension this past weekend for winter duty so I guess things are put on hold for a little bit. I would like to keep my mudflaps on the car so Im hoping with some trimming and heating and bending that'll be possible.

I'm slowly chipping away and will continue to roll and smooth out the rear quarters. I'd like to get the shape right then deal with fixing the paint once I have the wheels mounted. I think I will start addressing the front as I have yet to touch that. With my apparent horrendous body skillzzzz i think I am going to consider the fender spacer in the front before I ruin my front fenders as well. I need tp pick up a nice air hammer as well since I broke my HF one in no time when I installed my Perrin PSRS. I need to snap some photos as I was hitting my inner fender well with my current setup but its right on the frame rails in the front so Im not sure how people added space there without grinding off material. It just seems way too solid to dent in and Im not sure I even want to dent it in the first place.

This project is no joke but I'm determined to get wider rubber under my car. The difference here is that I along with the others posting in this thread are doing it from a performance perspective so we can't cut corners to make em fit by running a rubber band tire or throwing a bunch of negative camber at it.
Old Dec 1, 2014, 04:05 PM
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i used a hack saw to cut a slit down the corner of the rear quarter panel (area in your pic) so that it would fold over and I could roll it out. without a slit the shape was too stiff to do anything with. Once you get the wheels and tires on there you'll see that it hits more than just that one corner of the quarter panel, thus the mounting bolt relocation.

in the front i modified (read: bent and ground until they cleared) the brake line holding brackets so they didn't rub. no denting of the frame rail required. harbor freight hammer and dolly set was used to "flare" them as the roller wasn't doing ****.
Old Dec 2, 2014, 01:23 AM
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Originally Posted by griceiv
in the front i modified (read: bent and ground until they cleared) the brake line holding brackets so they didn't rub. no denting of the frame rail required. harbor freight hammer and dolly set was used to "flare" them as the roller wasn't doing ****.
I didn't realize you did the fronts yourself. That sir, is impressive. I thought it was professional.
Old Dec 2, 2014, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by griceiv
i used a hack saw to cut a slit down the corner of the rear quarter panel (area in your pic) so that it would fold over and I could roll it out.
Like this?
Name:  20141102_140746_zps44e4d976.jpg
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I'll probably just go ahead and do the bumper bolt mod as it sounds really easy and take your advice and slit that so it'll roll out smoothly. I'm just trying to think outside the box here and do as little as possible to make it work properly not due to laziness but rather that I'd prefer to keep the cutting to a minimum.

But yeah you are right once again without having the wheel and tire to test fitment I'm going at it blind which makes it nearly impossible to know what will hit and what won't.

I'd like to start addressing the front's known trouble spots. Now I know this is a different wheel setup but looking here R/Ternie mentioned "ground down the pinch weld on the rearward of the front fender well. Hammered the flap to the side. Moved the ABS wires so they wouldn't touch the tire. Removed the front fender liners."
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ml#post8617678

If I am reading this correctly you left most of the frame as is but just altered the brake line brackets(simple) and your front fenders(difficult). It sounds like the lower offset and large spacer helps keep the wheels from rubbing inward so as long as there is enough space between the wheel and front fender I should be good, correct?

I need to send some of you guys money for putting up with my abundance of questions
Old Dec 2, 2014, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by RJones
I didn't realize you did the fronts yourself. That sir, is impressive. I thought it was professional.
details. I said a hammer and dolly set was used, not that I used it.

Being friends with professional bodyshop people has it's perks.

I thought I had learned by watching the front fenders being worked over and proceeded to mangle up the rears. oh well.
Old Dec 2, 2014, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by heel2toe
Like this?
green line, not red.
Attached Thumbnails 275 35R18 Slick on NT03 10.5 stock body Evo-20141102_140746_zps44e4d976.jpg  
Old Dec 3, 2014, 08:56 AM
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Thank you. Yeah I watched a bunch of youtube videos and was feeling confident about doing my rear fenders but have learned quickly that I am not a body guy. Really wish I waited and had my buddy help me but they always make it look so easy in the videos
Old Dec 19, 2014, 10:06 PM
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I run a 20mm spacer in the front with the NT03 10.5
Old Jan 13, 2015, 06:56 AM
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Well since everyoe is having luck with 275's with the NT03's I wnet ahead and ordered a set. Now I hope I can fit them before my next event.
Old Jan 13, 2015, 08:14 AM
  #104  
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Good luck hope you can make it work. The 275/35 is such a popular size and all the locals here are using takeoffs which they can score for cheap. Once I step up to slicks I will probably be going that route as well but we shall see. For now my goal is just the 285/30 ZII's

In other exciting news I ordered 25mm spacers from Motorsport-tech a couple weeks ago. They havent shipped yet but they should be pretty sweet and I like that they are hub centric to the hub as well as the wheel so they should fit quite snugly on there.
Old Jan 13, 2015, 11:07 AM
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Why aren't people using the PF01s? Same 18x10.5 size but a more favorable 38mm offset and only 1lb heavier.


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