I can get you the updated parts list if no one else already has it. fully understand that though. Happy to help.

 

Sure, I'll update the original HOW TO with new pictures of the parts list, etc.

Do you have metric parts or imperial?

 

i did imperial, I'd do metric if I did it again.

 

If you compile a metric parts list, I'll update the original HOW TO for the community and bump the old thread.

I might even order the parts and do it myself!

 

Wow, DIY endlinks?! Thanks for the post!

 

Guys..please update with metric parts as I need to do this on my MR. It would be much appreciated

 

I went lazy and just shelled out some money for the Perrin rear links. I need to get this RSB and rear bushings installed anyway.



I'll update the original How To with the parts lists and this thread for the community once Bassicfun gets around to compiling the list.

 

May be a few, but happy to do it. (wife about due with our first child so i am keeping busssssssyyyyy).

 

Congratulations!

 

Perrin endlinks are 90 bucks on their website.. think they are having some kind of promotion! just order a set for the evo.

 

Bumping this up. I'm about to piece together some end links for the front. I would really prefer to follow the guide however piece it together in metric.

The guide mentions that the stock end links are 10mm. Hardware newb question here but is that 10mm is the diameter of the bolt, correct? Reason I ask is because the stock end links nuts require a 14mm wrench to brake them loose. His guide uses 3/8" hardware which converts to 9.525mm which is nearly 10mm.

So I think I am answering my own question here but I would just like to confirm before I purchase the hardware.

Since I'm only doing the front I think I need the following in the 10mm variety with everything the same pitch as well whether I choose to go 1.25mm or 1.5mm depending available options and price points:

Female Shank Rod End RH x2
Male Shank Rod End RH x2
Jam Nut RH x2
Safety Retaining Washer x4
Bolt x4
Lock Nut x4
Small Washer x8

Does this sound like the correct train of thought?

 

I just built those and was going to replace the hardware with metric. The heads of the imperial ones barely limit articulation. The metric head size is slightly larger and with the cusco endlink plates, I need all the articulation I could get. I didn't have the endlinks with me, I was just getting different length bolts and noticed the difference so I stuck with imperial.

 

When you install coilovers and corner balance your car, all for struts become a bit different in length and that may lead to a slight preload of sway bars. That effects handling and differs the car behavior in left and right corners.

Adjustable end links allow to dial out that sway bar preload to zero.

 

How did you determine that they will limit the articulation?

With a quick search on Pegasusautoracing comparing the imperial to the metric rod ends the 10mm appears to have more articulation relative to the imperial 3/8 unit. Look here:

Metric: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pd...nds3067AWM.pdf
Imperial: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pd...Ends3061MW.pdf

I'm about to take a look at McMaster-Carr so I can find a more apples to apples comparison as the two I just compared are actually different materials and such. Just found it interesting that they would have a different articulation since they should be very close in size.

So back to my original question. If you were to piece it together with metric hardware what size would you use? I think the correct size would be m10x1.50 but can you confirm that? Im being hardware stupid right now with the sizing so a little confirmation from another party would help me feel good about pulling the trigger confidently.

 

When I held the rod end in my hand and articulated it with the imperial hardware installed, the bolt head slightly touched the edge of the rod end. It may not do this if you get 2x the tapered spacers and put one on both sides of the rod end. After I saw the difference in hardware head sizes at the hardware store, I just went with shorter imperial bolts instead of the shorter metric bolts that I went there for.

FWIW....My endlinks are completely maxed out in articulation in the front with about 1/2" of spacer at the bar on the SOFTEST (inner) cusco bracket setting. I have the offset PSRS and tanabe bar. Not sure what part made it so I cant use the adjustable brackets, but thats how mine is right now. Probably going to flip the cusco brackets L to R so I at least have some adjustability. May end up getting more tapered spacers and modifying it later.

I ordered exactly what is in donours write-up.