Mounting Point A: 86% Stiffness (Stock OEM: 100%)
Mounting Point B: 100% (Stock OEM Mounting Position)
Mounting Point C: 116%
Mounting Point D: Incompatible for use w/CT9A

 

Wow, good to know, thank you! I wonder why they have 4 holes if only 3 are used...I'll have to snap a photo of the brackets I picked up from Rick when I get a chance. I'd like to confirm that he doesn't mind me doing so first.

Well I'm about to order the parts to make FSB end links. I'm taking a gamble and going with metric pieces as it seems like the way to go. Once I receive everything and confirm fitment I will report back with specifically what I bought.

 

slightly different - i was setting up my rsb for my mini, and the consensus i got was that the endlinks need to be tightened down while the rsb is parallel to the ground - basically, with load. i couldn't do that with the wheels on cuz i couldnt reach what i needed to, so i did this:



i don't get though, why, for non adjustable endlinks, it matters where you tigthen it down anyway - it moves up down, to me it seemed about equivalent to unscrewing and tigthening a bolt.. idk

 

Usually its because you are expecting some binding. Same goes for control arm bushings. If you put it in its normal resting position then the potential binding during compression and rebound are equal. If you tighten it up with the suspension unloaded, it may bind in a way that adds to the spring rate. Its mostly true for rubber bushings because the sleeve is attached to the rubber and when you tighten it, it clamps down on the sleeve and then tries to rotate it but the rubber does not rotate. Not so much of an issue with poly bushings and sphericals.

I usually put my jack under the ball joint and compress the suspension at that corner for most things. Though endlinks should be tightened with both sides loaded equally.

 

For those who made their own end links and are using adjustable brackets, how long of spacers did you end up needing?

I pieced together endlinks using metric hardware and now I just need to figure out how large of spacers I will need. Unfortunately since I decided to go the metric route, I can't find a local supplier so I will need to order them online. They're cheap but I'd like to have a ballpark before I get trigger happy over here.

I could and probably should just stop being lazy and go take some measurements but I'm exhausted from working on my car.

 

I'm putting bigger spacers on mine before the next event so I can reach a stiffer hole. Its probably 1/2 right now. Going to see what I can find locally that is 3/4 long.

 

Did you solely have the 1/2" spacer on the top where it connects to the bar or did you have a spacer on the top and bottom?

 

The 1/2" is at the bar. I need to look at it the bottom to see if I put anything down there. It wouldn't have been more than 1/4". Ive got these 1/4" spacers that came with my Honda's rear bar that Ive been using and I may have had enough for 1 on the bottom.

 

Thank you. So my decision to make these using metric hardware continues to add additional costs to this project since no local retailers seems to stock metric parts. Not that buying some bolts and spacers is costly but when you pay more for shipping than the actual parts it gets frustrating:

Anyway I just placed an order for a couple different size spacers. I went a pair of 6.4mm 12.7mm and 16mm. I also ordered some 60mm bolts as my 50mm bolts will not cut it with some of the longer spacers according to my math.

I've got an auto-x on Saturday so hopefully my packages will arrive prior so I can play around with the different spacers and see what works best.

Ideally I want to use as little of a spacer as possible. I have no clue how to calculate this however I wonder what affect a spacer has on overall stiffness. For example, if I were to need a spacer which is 10mm longer in order to reach a stiffer hole I wonder what affect that 10mm would have on the overall stiffness? Im guessing there is a crossover point but I'm not sure where this would be...

 

Im going to hit the hardware store today and try and source some beefier 1/2-3/4 spacers.

This post gives me enough confidence to at least try the large spacer and just keep an eye on it. But I don't think I want to go bigger than 3/4".
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/7598925-post35.html

 

Yeah I've seen that post as well and think that if if were to give way it would have on his setup. I still only run 255 ZII's so it's not like my car is exerting crazy high forces like if I were on Hoho's.

As long as you are using at least grade 8 hardware or grade 10.9 in my case(metric equivalent to grade 8) I think bending a bolt will be nearly impossible. What I'm more concerned about is the implications of using a spacer on the overall stiffness.

My spacers should be here tomorrow but I have yet to receive tracking info on my longer bolts so if I don't get those by the weekend I will only be able to use the 6.4mm spacers.

Why did I decide to use metric hardware again?

 

Lol. I picked up some beefy 3/4 dia x 1 long spacers and longer bolts at tractor supply. They have 3/4 long too if I feel like 1 is too much.

 

Cool well let me know how your new spacers work out. I just received tracking info for my bolts so I should have everything just in time for my auto-x on Saturday. Only problem is that its going to rain so that'll screw with my testing. At least I should be able to reach stiffer holes with my sway bar bracket.

Just curious, what are your spacers made out of? Im guessing some sort of steel? I went with aluminum spacers and am hoping theyll hold up fine. Aluminum is a softer metal but I think the only forces exerted on them with be compression so Im thinking itll be fine. I probably should have just gone with steel but I couldnt find a good source of metric spacers...

 

Im pretty sure mine are steel. I went ahead and put the 1" spacers on the top and bottom and used the 3rd hole on the brackets. I can probably reach the 4th hole now...

 

Just cruising around the neighborhood dodging pot holes last night, it certainly "feels" more responsive. Hopefully it performs better this weekend, although we are also forcasted rain....so it wont be a great test.

Is there any reason I shouldnt keep the option open of using the 4th hole? I figure they say not to because of stock endlink angles. And I may be able to reach them now. Just curious...