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Shocked by your findings on AMS oil pan: I got mine specifically to eliminate concern on track, and you saw it dropping pressure even sooner than OEM Pan.
You say it dropped oil pressure sooner but not as low: can you kindly tell us how low did it drop?
Anything else you can add?
I am not all that happy to rely on Accusump when oil pan design is inadequate.
May have to take it off, and find DIY solution.
I have a 3qt accusump but im not convinced that it does its job tbh. Its got an electric valve and is on a 3d oil pressure table.
You say it dropped oil pressure sooner but not as low: can you kindly tell us how low did it drop?
Anything else you can add?
i didn't actually log data, i'm going by my in car video which shows the oil pressure gauge. i ran the AMS pan at two different track and the results were the same.
I still need to upgrade to the electric switch. 2qt system should be enough. 2qts is more oil than most pans will offer. I plumbed mine right into the oil filter housing.
I personally don't have any data on other pans, but I've been told from a few sources now that the drops still occur with the AMS pan.
I've concluded the Accusump is the best fix.
What did you pre-charge the air side of the Accusump to? It would seem to help to pre-charge 20-30psi but Accusump instructions only write 7-10psi. I would think adding additional pre-charge would allow a greater available oil volume.
Are there any oiling system diagrams available to make a good determination of how/where to install the Accusump? I would be concerned about the flow direction of the oil coming from the Accusump during a low oil pressure situation (Accusump recommends using a check valve). Looking at some google image search oiling diagrams, the best way to ensure the oil from the Accusump is going towards the engine is to connect it at the oil cooler return line with a check valve that prevents back flowing the oil cooler. Mitsubishi manual shows the return line as the one connected to the bottom of the oil cooler which seems backwards.
Nevermind... reading Accusump's instructions it says the check valve isn't necessary as it isn't likely that oil will be able to travel back through the oil pump. So, it doesn't really matter a whole lot how it is plumbed in.
What did you pre-charge the air side of the Accusump to?
Are there any oiling system diagrams available to make a good determination of how/where to install the Accusump? I would be concerned about the flow direction of the oil coming from the Accusump during a low oil pressure situation (Accusump recommends using a check valve). Looking at some google image search oiling diagrams, the best way to ensure the oil from the Accusump is going towards the engine is to connect it at the oil cooler return line with a check valve that prevents back flowing the oil cooler. Mitsubishi manual shows the return line as the one connected to the bottom of the oil cooler which seems backwards.
Using the electric valve, the accusump will fill slowly until the pressure threshold is reached at which time it will rapid fill.
the only thing that really matters is the end result. This can be seen when logging. I can 100% say my result is better than no accusump. Is it perfect yet? no. I'm still using the manual valve. I hope to try the electric valve and test again.
according to instagram, that hardcore orange time attack evo that john carson drives in GTA will be running this pan this year...so should have some heavy duty testing.
Using the electric valve, the accusump will fill slowly until the pressure threshold is reached at which time it will rapid fill.
the only thing that really matters is the end result. This can be seen when logging. I can 100% say my result is better than no accusump. Is it perfect yet? no. I'm still using the manual valve. I hope to try the electric valve and test again.
how do u have ur electric valve being controlled? via a 3d table on your ecu? if so what kind of pressure vs rpm do you have it open at? i see my table ramps up progressively till about 4000rpm at 60psi and then it just flatlines at 60psi for every rpm above that till redline. im wondering if maybe i should raise it to say 80psi from 5500rpm onwards etc. but not sure if the accusump is even capable of supplying oil at this kind of pressure with the electric valve? and even if it can wether it will supply it for long enough to be effective?
Conditions: Fair/80deg
Track temp: 93deg
Setup: ST2 map, Fresh R7's, remembering how to drive stick again
Summary: So being it's been forever since I've been given a brake from the house project I wasn't at my best but my focus was mostly on getting ya'll this data and remembering what I needed to remember for next time. I was way outclassed in ST2 but I had fun none the less and placed 3rd.
So here's the output from that run:
Ignore those first dips, that's traffic bunching up after a hot lap and me having to come to a stop almost before the green flag.
What it doesn't say....is that we forgot to tighten the oil cap after refilling it from a new catch can setup thats sucking oil from the dipstick (another post). Thus, this pan KEPT optimal PSI even though 2 quarts of oil managed to escape all over the engine bay (yes, I'm still finding oil from when the dipstick let go, and now this lol). I'm convinced it saved my motor this round. And no, no leaks from the pan still
so some of the lowest dip in pressure is mid 40's? that's a lot better than mid 20's for stock pan.
Yep. Going through the turn data it stayed in the 90's on both turns 1 and 12 which are 90+mph. I basically run out of 4th gear coming out so that's also 7000+ rpm's at ~1.5-1.6G's.
Feb 23, 2016, 10:19 AM
